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Mechanical Oil Pressure gauge fitting

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,401
Loc.
Upper SoKA
When grounding is a requirement I usually use a liquid sealant. Sometimes that regular old pipe dope, sometimes that is Lock-tite 545, and every once in a while it is Hylomar.

For me the hardest part of a timing cover removal was getting the damper off. That requires a puller. I bought an OTC bolt grip puller for that and other jobs off of amazon.
 

CA650

Full Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2013
Messages
273
RE the Timing Chain - i’ll move that discussion to another thread when I start on it. I bought a puller that seemed to have ok reviews from here and summit and other places. I heard putting it back on was more difficult. I would prefer to use a block of wood and a 2lb hammer.

I think getting the front grill off is going to be the most difficult part. IDK haven’t tried yet - i’ve been trying to put myself in a “zen” state before the attempt. working on this truck with my son has been a priceless form of therapy... I am pretty quick to explode when the machine seems to fight me with all of its narrow spaces, in the way hoses, rusted stripped stuck things, do it 3 times to get it right horseshit. I practice breathing and walking away from things that are half finished or take more than a day to do.. the 4 day project is about my limit and that timing plate gasket look like one of those with the opportunity to drag out.. I really hate changing all the fluids - what a mess
 
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ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,401
Loc.
Upper SoKA
I've never done that job in an EB. Is removing the grill simply a nicety, or an absolute requirement? Usually getting the radiator out of the way is enough room to work comfortably.

I just grease up the threads & under-head of the balancer bolt and the snout of the crank. Probably the wrong way to do it, but done carefully it works. If turning the bolt gets too tight I usually back off the bolt a little, and then come at it again.

FWIW I leave the engine oil in until after I'm done with jobs like that. Then I drain it.
 

CA650

Full Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2013
Messages
273
I think it’s better to take the grill off but maybe could do it with just the radiator out of the way.. leaving the oil in might be ok too. I think the radiator and fluid need to definitely go

may try leaving the oil in and see if I can get the grill off
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,834
Loc.
San Martin, CA
I think it’s better to take the grill off but maybe could do it with just the radiator out of the way.. leaving the oil in might be ok too. I think the radiator and fluid need to definitely go

may try leaving the oil in and see if I can get the grill off

Mike, you don't need to pull the grill, unless you are planning a cam swap. Definitely drain and remove the Rad/cooling system.

When you scrape the old gasket on the block for the timing cover, fill the front of the oil pan with rags to stop most pieces from falling in. Some small pieces will, and after you button everything up, change the oil before starting.

Glad you discovered the cause of the oil leak! And repaired it yourself.

Timing chain - set the motor at top dead center "0" before taking things apart.
When you hit the Balancer bolt with an impact to remove it, make sure it doesn't move. If it does move it back. When you remove the timing cover, the marks should line up on the two gears.
Re-install... Put some white grease, light coating, on the balancer body that contacts the seal. yes you can assist the Balancer back on with a block of wood and a dead blow hammer, but beating on it is not advised.

You have my number if there are questions... Doug
 

jhill52

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2012
Messages
127
I had a plastic line fail on me. I used s/s braided line I found at a swap meet.
 

CA650

Full Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2013
Messages
273
Mike, you don't need to pull the grill, unless you are planning a cam swap. Definitely drain and remove the Rad/cooling system.

When you scrape the old gasket on the block for the timing cover, fill the front of the oil pan with rags to stop most pieces from falling in. Some small pieces will, and after you button everything up, change the oil before starting.

Glad you discovered the cause of the oil leak! And repaired it yourself.

Timing chain - set the motor at top dead center "0" before taking things apart.
When you hit the Balancer bolt with an impact to remove it, make sure it doesn't move. If it does move it back. When you remove the timing cover, the marks should line up on the two gears.
Re-install... Put some white grease, light coating, on the balancer body that contacts the seal. yes you can assist the Balancer back on with a block of wood and a dead blow hammer, but beating on it is not advised.

You have my number if there are questions... Doug

Thanks Doug!

That oil leak was terrible and it started all at once following an oil change I. which i used some high zink oil that maybe had a side effect of cleaning out some gunk that then triggered the leak.

RE the cover gasket - i’ll give it a try maybe next week and i’ll try to follow your advice. I am going to try to remove the grill - I think it will make the job easier once off and I am trying to mount a secondary AOD cooler in front and I need to get in there to do the mounting for that anyway. My AOD hit 250 degrees on the drive down to Morgan hill. it’s ok on short drives but it’s not cooling properly in longer drives. I hope the dedicate radiator fixes that
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,231
Good luck on the grille!
I'm sure it makes it a lot easier, what with not having to drape yourself over the top of it. But as said it's not needed.

And I say good luck because those hidden bolts are a pain if they're rusty at all. They've been a pain ever since the first EB reached about five years of age and have just gotten worse in the ensuing 50 years or so.
Probably easier to remove the entire front clip in those cases. Cutting the sheet metal back near the firewall, and all.

So yeah, good luck. And count the bolts. There are two that are higher up in the pocket than you think.

Paul
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Remove the fenders and front grill as one piece that relieves the worst of the hassle.
The long water pump / Timing cover bolts are prone to serious rust inside the cover and can break pretty easily if they are rusty so plan on new ones. I always coat the shanks of those bolts with silicone to avert rust just a thin smear will do or you can paint them. ford just used bare steel bolts and after 30 years they are a real crap shoot. I have done 2 sets of timing chains working over the grill it sucks I am short and plump it kills me to work over the grill. put the hood all the way up and bungee it in place the stars you see when it falls on your head isnt worth being lazy. been there and done that. wont let it happen to me again. Beware there are 2 different timing sets narrow and wide. get the wrong set in place it will chew up your timing cover and you wont know until its all back together. you will hear the wrong one as soon as you start it up. cant mix parts. its all in the cam retainer / fuel pump eccentric.
 

CA650

Full Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2013
Messages
273
two different timing sets?
you mean timing chains and gears?

I have this Edelbrock set I bought from summit it’s 7820 Ford 289-302
hope that’s right.
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
yes timing chains and gears. you wont know until you you pull the old stuff out. the excentrix that drives the fuel pump for the Cam shaft and their dowel pins are different for the 2 timing sets so you have to have the right one for the timing chain and sprocket you bought. there is no way to tell if any of this has been changed earlier. now if you had a 5.0 this wouldn't be an issue. just 289/302 engines. it would be extremely rare to find an engine these days that someone hasn,t been in the timing cover.
 

CA650

Full Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2013
Messages
273
I started out great this am in a peaceful place mentally ready to take that grill off
1st two of the top most hardest to reach bolts came out smoothly with a half inch ratchet wrench..

then the bottom two inside the wheel well came out with a little struggle but they came out.
then moved up the wheel well and got another bolt out...

Then my luck ran out.. snapped one, stripped three more those just spin in their clips.

walking away from it now.. will drive it for a few more days as is.. and try to get back into a better mental state to try to take the hood off and the front quarter panels..

I have a few thoughts for the 66-77 Ford engineers that I will keep to myself until I have put this morning behind me some.
 

CA650

Full Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2013
Messages
273
woooh hoooh!

got the grill off without taking the front fenders out!
i’ve totally hijacked this thread so I feel bad for that but I am stoked. I can work on the secondary radiator and make some progress on the timing chain gasket

I also bought some nice new bolts that are coated. way better than the originals

https://74bronco.shutterfly.com/134
 
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