Mild 351 or 408 Stroker

[nvrstuk]

For some reason I seem to grenade parts-or at least have a reputation for doing so. lol However, with that being said I broke more parts over the years without strokers than with them.

Here's what I believe makes the difference. I drive mine. I mean- I drive it a lot. With that comes wear and tear. That alone isnt the main factor tho.

Tall tires, traction, 100% locked frt/rear ends, and GEARING. Gearing multiples torque and makes a huge difference for transferring that torque to the ground during low speed wheeling. Add gearing to all of the above and things twist off and they do so at low speeds, idling on high traction surfaces. I have broken more stuff going slow idling up a rock wall then snobashing or running sand dunes and I hate mud so I never "do mud".

That being said, 1310 joints are what I used for decades and never broke one until a 6K rpm shift into 2nd on blacktop. Twisted the 35 spline ARB locker in half but the 1310 CV held up. I run 1350's now but I have over 700 ft lbs of torque and I went to 2 different automatics
as the TC helps eliminate shock load at low rpms
Mud, sand and snow are extremely forgiving while high traction surfaces are not

 

[nvrstuk]

Update for parts breakage. Your frt axle ujoints will be your weak point, but they are already are - so no change there

Just like any D44, dont back up with the wheels turned in locked 4 wheel. I have posted a chart showing the strength loss of ujoints when "turned" in a frt axle situation. Amazing the lack of strength when turned.

After I twisted a 1/2 dozen frt axles I upgraded to the full size axles and joints from FS D44's, then went to upgraded alloy joints and axles and now run D60 RCV's.

 

[SSDDBRONCO]

For some reason I seem to grenade parts-or at least have a reputation for doing so. lol However, with that being said I broke more parts over the years without strokers than with them.

Here's what I believe makes the difference. I drive mine. I mean- I drive it a lot. With that comes wear and tear. That alone isnt the main factor tho.

Tall tires, traction, 100% locked frt/rear ends, and GEARING. Gearing multiples torque and makes a huge difference for transferring that torque to the ground during low speed wheeling. Add gearing to all of the above and things twist off and they do so at low speeds, idling on high traction surfaces. I have broken more stuff going slow idling up a rock wall then snobashing or running sand dunes and I hate mud so I never "do mud".

That being said, 1310 joints are what I used for decades and never broke one until a 6K rpm shift into 2nd on blacktop. Twisted the 35 spline ARB locker in half but the 1310 CV held up. I run 1350's now but I have over 700 ft lbs of torque and I went to 2 different automatics
as the TC helps eliminate shock load at low rpms
Mud, sand and snow are extremely forgiving while high traction surfaces are not

Update for parts breakage. Your frt axle will be your weak point.

Good to hear that 1310's are stronger than i assumed. You sir are putting out some serious power! Had to check out your build... it's badass.

Will upgrading the D44 be worth it to accommodate the power of a 408?

 

[Madgyver]

I tend to build as you break things....

 

[nvrstuk]

lol Mad.

 

[nvrstuk]

If you wheel a D44 it needs upgrading anyway. Not trying to spend your money but D44's are pretty good till 35" tires, lockers (like selectables) & gears come into play.

When wheeling your rig either moves or it doesn't. When trying to move in extremely tough terrain torque generated thru engine/trans/doubler/tcase/frt/rear end multiples overcoming the forces needed until your rig moves, or it wont move or something grenades.

So 300ftlbs of engine torque or 700ftlbs are trying to do the dame thing when wheeling.

Frt joints are marginal when loaded going straight (not even turned) to overcome the resistance your vehicle needs to move when wheeling.

So depending on the type of wheeling you do will determine the potential upgrades wanted or needed to help prevent breakage.

Excellent joints and axles (because when joints break they almost always destroy the ears on the axle) are a must and extra engine torque doesn't make any difference other than you have a more torque available to help you become unstuck.

Hopping and bouncing when wheeling is the best way to kill parts! Shock loading kills parts

 

[SSDDBRONCO]

If you wheel a D44 it needs upgrading anyway. Not trying to spend your money but D44's are pretty good till 35" tires, lockers (like selectables) & gears come into play.

When wheeling your rig either moves or it doesn't. When trying to move in extremely tough terrain torque generated thru engine/trans/doubler/tcase/frt/rear end multiples overcoming the forces needed until your rig moves, or it wont move or something grenades.

So 300ftlbs of engine torque or 700ftlbs are trying to do the dame thing when wheeling.

Frt joints are marginal when loaded going straight (not even turned) to overcome the resistance your vehicle needs to move when wheeling.

So depending on the type of wheeling you do will determine the potential upgrades wanted or needed to help prevent breakage.

Excellent joints and axles (because when joints break they almost always destroy the ears on the axle) are a must and extra engine torque doesn't make any difference other than you have a more torque available to help you become unstuck.

Hopping and bouncing when wheeling is the best way to kill parts! Shock loading kills parts

So many factors involved when wanting Big Power lol. I wonder if my Extreme output shaft from wild horses will hold up in my Dana 20. Pretty sure it will though. Guess I'll just have to break shit as i go like Mad does ;D

 

[nvrstuk]

Yeah, so many great builders/designers on this site have all gone thru the same thing. What holds up and what doesn't? lol

Output shaft really is the D20's weakest part IMO. The Intermediate shaft gear is next. Torque and traction is what tears them up.

 

[Madgyver]

Yeah, so many great builders/designers on this site have all gone thru the same thing. What holds up and what doesn't? lol

Output shaft really is the D20's weakest part IMO. The Intermediate shaft gear is next. Torque and traction is what tears them up.

I broke a 300m output shaft.. a stock one replaced it..

 

[nvrstuk]

So you bought that thru the mass buy I out together from Chuck 20 yrs ago?

That's what I ran

 

[Madgyver]

So you bought that thru the mass buy I out together from Chuck 20 yrs ago?

That's what I ran

Could be or I got it from WH. I can't remember.

 

[DR650]

Update for parts breakage. Your frt axle ujoints will be your weak point, but they are already are - so no change there

Just like any D44, dont back up with the wheels turned in locked 4 wheel. I have posted a chart showing the strength loss of ujoints when "turned" in a frt axle situation. Amazing the lack of strength when turned.

After I twisted a 1/2 dozen frt axles I upgraded to the full size axles and joints from FS D44's, then went to upgraded alloy joints and axles and now run D60 RCV's.

How expensive was it to upgrade?

 

[nvrstuk]

WH sold the
design Gary came up with that was about an inch longer than stock and a different spline count (if I remember correctly?).

Chuck's mass buy was a one time buy of 300M output shafts that were identical to the stock shaft. If you weren't on that mass buy list myself & Jasen put together it wasn't a 300M shaft

 

[nvrstuk]

DR650- check RCV frt axle replacement on WH site. They sell them, I'm sure Tom's does too.

Guaranteed for life, you can turn sharp backing up a hill with excellent traction and not worry.

 

[Madgyver]

Finally the 393Clevor is up and running... 1tons on my mind..

 

[markw]

What heads did you use for your Clevor?


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[Madgyver]

What heads did you use for your Clevor?


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steel aussie 2v closed chambered heads

 

[markw]

Those are nice! What intake? Same company? And are the headers same pattern as Windsor heads? Just higher?
Appreciate the pics!


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[bmc69]

DR650- check RCV frt axle replacement on WH site. They sell them, I'm sure Tom's does too.

Guaranteed for life, you can turn sharp backing up a hill with excellent traction and not worry.

My old 408C rig destroyed every set of RCV 44 axles they could deliver. But they did keep delivering them..to their credit. ;-)

 

[DR650]

DR650- check RCV frt axle replacement on WH site. They sell them, I'm sure Tom's does too.

Guaranteed for life, you can turn sharp backing up a hill with excellent traction and not worry.

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/RCV_Dana_44_CV_Front_Axle_Set_78-79/newproducts-FS

These the ones you had in mind? And do you think it's worth replacing them preemptively?