More EFI help?

[Lttrbox]

Sean,

Dez has a MAP sensor hooked into his Mas Air EFI system. The map is the top of the two pics that I posted. The BP sensor which goes to a MAF system is the lower of the two.

I misread. Neither of the BP sensors I got had that plug. They were open to air. Im wondering if the parts shop got me the MAP instead of the BAP (BP) that I asked for. The shifted frequency range might be contributing to my on-going battle.

 

[SeanNollan]

Just got home and let me answer this..

Lttrbox,

If I remember the biggest part of your on going battle is that lack of codes. Where you able to pull codes? After that, could be you might have a MAP, I don't know. If you want you can post the numbers that are inprinted it and somebody could tell you. I can't -lol

Dez,

Try and call napa or hit the boneyard. The next time I'm in the yard, I'll try and see if I can find one. Along with what Lars said, I still want to know the computer code in your system.

 

[Lttrbox]

Re: Just got home and let me answer this..

Lttrbox,

If I remember the biggest part of your on going battle is that lack of codes. Where you able to pull codes? After that, could be you might have a MAP, I don't know. If you want you can post the numbers that are inprinted it and somebody could tell you. I can't -lol.

Sean, still no codes. However, another Bronc owner had the same problems with the cheapo code reader. He said he hooked it up to a high dollar unit and no problems - codes appeared. A bit off for this thread, but Ive got two more things to check out before I head for a shop and their high dollar reader.

 

[lars]

Re: Re: Just got home and let me answer this..

Sean, still no codes. However, another Bronc owner had the same problems with the cheapo code reader. He said he hooked it up to a high dollar unit and no problems - codes appeared. A bit off for this thread, but Ive got two more things to check out before I head for a shop and their high dollar reader.

Before chasing an expensive code reader, why not just try the check engine light? If you don't have one, make one. I wanted a dash-mounted light that fit the general EB dash decor. I got one of the "brake" lights out of a 70's Ford truck- same exact brake idiot light as in the EB dash (I didn't want to hijack my existing one because it still works for its original function. I drilled a hole above the fuel gage selector switch and mounted it there. But any lamp socket with two wires coming off it, that takes a 12 volt bulb will do. Or even just get a 12 volt bulb and solder wires to it, for a temporary fix.

Connect one lead to a convenient "run" electrical source, the other goes to pin 17 on the computer- that would be the pink/green wire in the "green" plug on the FRPP harness. With that connected, the only thing you need is a jumper wire to pull codes. You can even use a paper clip (yes, I've done that myself). Connect the self test input plug (that's the test connector with only one wire) to the signal return terminal (if you hold the 6 terminal test connector so that the row of two terminals are above the four, it's the upper right). Turn on the key, and the check engine light will flash codes. It's written up pretty well on Ryan McCormick's site: http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.htm

 

[KST1]

As lars has stated, you don't need a code reader to pull codes. I had trouble with the el'cheapo reader that I had so I simply used a 12V test light. I connected the alligator clip to the run post on the starter solenoid and the tip of the probe into the self test output. Jumper the wires and away you go.

The only advantage the el'cheapo has it that it also provided an audible signal which can make it a little easier to recognize the code.

I'll never use the reader again. I will mount a light in the dash as Lars has suggested. Someday....

-D

 

[Lttrbox]

I was afraid you all were going read that I was going to purchase one. No I was just going to go somewhere and see if their high dollar unit will read. My point on the previous post was that this Bronco owner had a check engine light that is always on. Similar, to my situation. Ive tried the manual method, but mine seems to activate the self test and quit. That is, the light goes on and stays on. This other guy said his is the same and a high dollar machine would read the codes anyway. Just thought I would try it. Im still pretty confused on why no codes still.

FYI, I got the oportunity to check four rigs with EFI this past weekend in Cedar City. They are all hooked up very similar to mine in that the power sources are nearly the same. I even had one guy tell me that the problem is that I used the 73 block with the EFI stuff. Huh, whats that got to do with the intake and control. Ive layed my hands on the rest of the solenoids I dont have hooked up from a pick and pull. Gonna, try hooking the electronic part up and see. Thats the only idea Ive got left.