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A couple more efi 5.8 questions
- Thread starter 4x4man514
- Start date
OP
OP
No its just that simple. I'll post a pic in a little while when I get home. Thanks guys.
OP
OP
OP
OP
Upside down. Fantastic.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 49,236
It's alright. Took a little re-orientation of the brain, but it's clear enough after that.
Sure looks like one of the old racer trick steam-pocket eliminators/coolant equalizer tube thingies. I thought they were in the intake manifold itself, though, but yours looks like it's in the engine block itself. Is that correct?
And what is that 90° AN fitting elbow in the manifold for? More coolant trickery?
Paul
Sure looks like one of the old racer trick steam-pocket eliminators/coolant equalizer tube thingies. I thought they were in the intake manifold itself, though, but yours looks like it's in the engine block itself. Is that correct?
And what is that 90° AN fitting elbow in the manifold for? More coolant trickery?
Paul
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Nevermind. I re-read what you said and apparently the hose in the back is just sitting there, and the elbows I asked about are where the hose connects.
So yes, a somewhat typical version of the crossover. I've seen them ported farther out to the edge of the manifold nearer the heads, but this looks like it would do the same thing and was probably a more convenient place to put the elbows on an EFI setup?
A good thing to keep since it's already there, but might not be absolutely necessary in your case either. Only time and the engine running will tell if you have a cooling problem.
If the elbows themselves are not in the way, maybe just get a pair of caps and leave the hose off for now. If you end up wanting to put it back in, then do it. If you need a longer hose to get around some of the new obstacles, that should be easy enough to do.
Theoretically at least.
Paul
So yes, a somewhat typical version of the crossover. I've seen them ported farther out to the edge of the manifold nearer the heads, but this looks like it would do the same thing and was probably a more convenient place to put the elbows on an EFI setup?
A good thing to keep since it's already there, but might not be absolutely necessary in your case either. Only time and the engine running will tell if you have a cooling problem.
If the elbows themselves are not in the way, maybe just get a pair of caps and leave the hose off for now. If you end up wanting to put it back in, then do it. If you need a longer hose to get around some of the new obstacles, that should be easy enough to do.
Theoretically at least.
Paul
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4man514 View Post
Ok guys. So now I have some different valve covers on the way , and some heater tubes. I got my explorer lines in and now realize this crossover coolant line is in the way . How important is this? One issue after the next! Lol.
Viperwolf posted:
It's a good thing to keep if you're using the ECT sensor in the heater tube. It circulates coolant through the tubes even when the heater valve is turned off. That lets the sensor get a more accurate estimate of the temp.
My question:
So when mounting the ECT, couldn't you plumb it into the short 90deg bypass hose btw the t-stat and wtr pump? This would allow constant water flow to it without having the Exploder metal heater tubes OR a large "t" fitting in the manifold by the #1 cylinder.
Not a lot of space but a short copper "T" with solder in pipe thread ends for the hoses should be close to fitting...
This make sense or is it over-thought again?
Originally Posted by 4x4man514 View Post
Ok guys. So now I have some different valve covers on the way , and some heater tubes. I got my explorer lines in and now realize this crossover coolant line is in the way . How important is this? One issue after the next! Lol.
Viperwolf posted:
It's a good thing to keep if you're using the ECT sensor in the heater tube. It circulates coolant through the tubes even when the heater valve is turned off. That lets the sensor get a more accurate estimate of the temp.
My question:
So when mounting the ECT, couldn't you plumb it into the short 90deg bypass hose btw the t-stat and wtr pump? This would allow constant water flow to it without having the Exploder metal heater tubes OR a large "t" fitting in the manifold by the #1 cylinder.
Not a lot of space but a short copper "T" with solder in pipe thread ends for the hoses should be close to fitting...
This make sense or is it over-thought again?
Last edited:
OP
OP
No the hose is in the intake with those 90 an fittings. I just had the hose laying on the block so you could see it in the pic.
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You could put the ect in the bypass hose. It doesn't need to be grounded but might be a tight fit.
OP
OP
Ok so keep the coolant line.and as far as the crossover lines just get high pressure efi fuel line. Does it have a name? And exactly how much pressure should it be holding?
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- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
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guessing at least 100 psi. The engine is running on a regulated 35 to 45 psi normally, but most of our pumps are capable of 90 psi unregulated. Given a safety factor which is very important, and you're probably looking at 150-250 psi maybe?
Just guessing at this myself, but wanted to throw it out there for review. Maybe someone knows how these systems are designed and can give you the straight skinny.
Paul
Just guessing at this myself, but wanted to throw it out there for review. Maybe someone knows how these systems are designed and can give you the straight skinny.
Paul
OP
OP
Thanks paul. I'm heading to the parts store in a minute hopefully it won't be too hard to find.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Product-Line/Summit-Racing-Twist-Tite-Hose/
or
Napa
https://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/1241841.pdf
Remember the crossover for the rails is regulated, the flexible line btw your intake and the fuel tank is not... you could be at high pressures btw the tank/pump and intake lines and lower after the regulator which if you're running stock is mounted on the fuel rail.
or
Napa
https://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/1241841.pdf
Remember the crossover for the rails is regulated, the flexible line btw your intake and the fuel tank is not... you could be at high pressures btw the tank/pump and intake lines and lower after the regulator which if you're running stock is mounted on the fuel rail.
Fuel rail
Only exception to the factory 351W fuel rails all being drive side mounted fuel pressure regulated I know of is the 1995 Mustang Cobra R model. Not likely to come across one of those!
It depends which roller rockers you plan to run. I am using the same cast aluminum, finned valve covers and they fit over my Harland Sharp shaft mounted roller rockers.
4x4man....do you have rockers and valve covers already? Have you test fit them? As for the vacuum ports, hoses, etc...the only ones you must have are for PCV and the fuel regulator. I saw in another thread, you are trying to decide which fuel rails to go with. I can tell you this....in order for the upper manifold to clear the fuel pressure regulator, the throttle body and fuel pressure regulator MUST be on the same side, unless you're willing to run an intake manifold spacer between upper and lower.
As far as I know, ALL 351 5.8L factory fuel rails have drivers side mounted fuel pressure regulator....at least everyone I've ever seen does. You can run with throttle body facing drivers side, but it is not the conventional way to do it. I did it that way, but it's a tight fit. The only fuel rail I've seen with passenger side regulator are 5.0's so you have to lengthen the cross over hoses on the fuel rail to use on a 5.8. Your best bet is to collect all the parts you will need and then start test fitting everything together that you'd like to use. The problems will become apparent and that is how you start working thru them. Ask me how I know......
Only exception to the factory 351W fuel rails all being drive side mounted fuel pressure regulated I know of is the 1995 Mustang Cobra R model. Not likely to come across one of those!
x2 what Mattt said... I trial fit 3 different fuel rails with my setup before I ended up going with rail that doesn't have a cross over in the front and I ran my TB on the drivers side so I could avoid using a long throttle cable crossing over in front of my engine. I had to modify the TB throttle arm to clear the fuel rail but it works w/o spacers. Currently wiring it...
OP
OP
Crap. I haven't gotten to the throttle bracket yet. Is that really gonna be that hard? Does everyone that runs on the passenger side bring it in from the front? Nobody has figure away to come from the back yet?
No, it's not that difficult at all. It just sounds difficult because you're hearing how everyone did it differently. Once you start putting it together, it will make sense. If you want to run the TB facing the passenger side, the easiest cable & bracket to use is from an 87-93 Mustang 5.0. That cable comes in from the rear and the bracket bolts to the EGR spacer(between TB and upper intake).
Yeah, good luck finding a set of those. I wonder what they even look like since the 94-95 Mustang 5.0 had that funky 45* upper intake and the different, stamped maybe?, fuel rails? I wonder if the Cobra R had the conventional tube style or that funk stamped style of the Mustang 5.0.
I couldn't fit either the stock Mustang throttle bracket or the BC Broncos one due to clearance issues with the fuel rails without either a 2" spacer btw the TB and the upper plenum or a 2" btw the upper and lower plenum... With the TB facing the drivers side everything clears... I'm running a 5.8 Victor EFI so it's different but the issues aren't!! lol
