OP
OP
I use a Lincoln 180HD welder with 0.035 wire, it is a 220v welder. It's been a wonderful machine for close to 8 years now.
Community
Message Forum
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Buy / Sell
Bronco Tech
3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
-
Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.
Morgan's 1969 Bronco
- Thread starter 1969miller
- Start date
OP
OP
A crumb of progress..
Leaf spring hangers are all welded in, along with the rear shock hoop.
Sold one of my favorite wheelers to purchase all of my body parts. So in the coming months I will attempt to build a tub.
Got one long arm tacked together.
Now progress has stalled again as I work on my V8 swapped ranger and see if I can't get it finished for KOH 2023..
Leaf spring hangers are all welded in, along with the rear shock hoop.
Sold one of my favorite wheelers to purchase all of my body parts. So in the coming months I will attempt to build a tub.
Got one long arm tacked together.
Now progress has stalled again as I work on my V8 swapped ranger and see if I can't get it finished for KOH 2023..
Please share info on the body kit. I’m debating the same purchase for one of my trucks.
OP
OP
I went with this kit. Still missing all of the bolt on parts but I figured I can pick those up down the road.
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/17949/Complete-Steel-Body-Kits
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2021
- Messages
- 56
Did that kit come with the 4 cross channels that go under the floor pans and middle of the bed? I can see the the cross channel for the back of the bed is there but the others aren't visible in the image. Thanks! nice fab work.
OP
OP
Yes, the front 2 are already welded into the main floor platform set.
OP
OP
Picked up the rear housing today
OP
OP
Been busy ignoring this thing and working on my dezert truck, but since the rain is keeping me more in the garage and less in the driveway, some bronco progress is bound to happen.
Got the perches tacked in place on the new housing, will need way more weight on it to see how far off my pinion angle is. They are currently set at 10 degrees from neutral.
Put a solid day into reworking my "jig" for the radius arms. 1st arm was nice but did not turn out like I had hoped, it also took me like a month. 2nd arm is much much better and took me a full day to make. For this reason, I will be remaking the passenger side arm to match the quality of the driver side.
Wedges have been cut off, cleaned up, and relocated 3in inward on the front housing. I feel like I will need to roll the axle back a bit more for some much needed caster without losing too much pinion angle. Was hoping to have a rolling chassis before the end of the year, but a nasty flu took me out for a solid week. Still chuggin away!
Got the perches tacked in place on the new housing, will need way more weight on it to see how far off my pinion angle is. They are currently set at 10 degrees from neutral.
Put a solid day into reworking my "jig" for the radius arms. 1st arm was nice but did not turn out like I had hoped, it also took me like a month. 2nd arm is much much better and took me a full day to make. For this reason, I will be remaking the passenger side arm to match the quality of the driver side.
Wedges have been cut off, cleaned up, and relocated 3in inward on the front housing. I feel like I will need to roll the axle back a bit more for some much needed caster without losing too much pinion angle. Was hoping to have a rolling chassis before the end of the year, but a nasty flu took me out for a solid week. Still chuggin away!
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 48,289
With all your abilities and available equipment, and a little extra time hopefully, why not just go all the way now and cut and rotate the yokes instead of compromising between pinion and caster?
Dial in both to their perfect angles right off the bat, rather than having to do it all over later.
Dial in both to their perfect angles right off the bat, rather than having to do it all over later.
OP
OP
If i still worked up at Ruffstuff I would take it on, because we had access to true bars, lathes and other things to make sure it stays true. I have a beefy backup housing with C's machined and only tacked on, so I can use that if i get to the point of needing to have them turned. But that housing was a cast wedge housing I had retubed with thicker axle tubes (still has inner seal surfaces machined into the tubes). I'd kick myself if i put wedges back on it.. It was intended for a 3 link on another ranger that I have since sold.
The other main reason I'm not concerned with it at the moment, is I've got not body! I want to get this thing rolling so I can start building the tub and see some real progress! Then I can revisit the more finite details.
OP
OP
After thinking about it on my way home, you are right. To do it right the Cs need to be rocked back. More cutting 
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2007
- Messages
- 81,897
Looking good man...
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2007
- Messages
- 81,897
After thinking about it on my way home, you are right. To do it right the Cs need to be rocked back. More cutting
just measure 3 times lol
OP
OP
Been a while, have some neat updates, not much progress on the Bronco itself but ive been gathering lots of parts for it. Took time off of this project to finish my prerunner build I've had for a few years. Got it done in time for my 30th birthday in May.
5.0L / M5ROD-2, A-arm long travel, Kings, some other cool goodies. All built in my garage.
Anyway back to bronco updates..
Decided I'm building a rock crawler, why build a new body just to smash it up. Found a deal on one a couple hours away from a very generous seller. It's in ok shape, going to cut out the rear floor and redo that. Its got some raised angle iron floor and it just bugs me. Not sure how a tub from Alaska is in better shape than my WA tub was.
Pressing the Dana ball joints into the Reid knuckles.
Picked up a set of cheap 38s and a cheap set of 17s to mount them on. Less than $400 was spent on what you see here.
Started stripping down the 96 explorer motor for some seals and paint. Trying not to go down the rabbit hole and redo the entire motor.
Decided I wanted the coils further outboard for stability and the ability to make a longer panhard bar. Ordered some buckets from duff, they are tacked in 1in forward of the originals as ive read that's about all you can get away with while running an EB steering box.
mounted the radius arms. Now I'm on the fence of starting over again with a true 3 link. Decisions decisions..
The best part of this update, Tremec TR4050!
5.0L / M5ROD-2, A-arm long travel, Kings, some other cool goodies. All built in my garage.
Anyway back to bronco updates..
Decided I'm building a rock crawler, why build a new body just to smash it up. Found a deal on one a couple hours away from a very generous seller. It's in ok shape, going to cut out the rear floor and redo that. Its got some raised angle iron floor and it just bugs me. Not sure how a tub from Alaska is in better shape than my WA tub was.
Pressing the Dana ball joints into the Reid knuckles.
Picked up a set of cheap 38s and a cheap set of 17s to mount them on. Less than $400 was spent on what you see here.
Started stripping down the 96 explorer motor for some seals and paint. Trying not to go down the rabbit hole and redo the entire motor.
Decided I wanted the coils further outboard for stability and the ability to make a longer panhard bar. Ordered some buckets from duff, they are tacked in 1in forward of the originals as ive read that's about all you can get away with while running an EB steering box.
mounted the radius arms. Now I'm on the fence of starting over again with a true 3 link. Decisions decisions..
The best part of this update, Tremec TR4050!
Last edited:
Awesome weld’s brother! Laying some good bones that old horse.
OP
OP
These ones were from the VORRA Fallon 250 back in June or July, between fallon and sand mountain.
Thanks!
OP
OP
Wrapped up a few other projects around my garage so I had time to put into the bronco. Got the radius arm mounts tacked in, got the frame on its own weight with 4.5in WH coils, started setting up knuckles so I can get wheels on it and roll it under the brand-used body and get it back home. All of this is still tack welded till I can drop the motor in and check clearances for the oil pan with a track bar and drag link. Also concerned with the front crossmember since i pushed the axle forward a bit. Not afraid to cut it up and replate it. Time will tell.
Tie rod with 7/8 heims from Ruffstuff, 1.5" x .120 wall DOM, rosette welds etc.. and the 4 bolt quick ratio steering box from Wild Horses.
Thinking the drop pitman arm might not be best for uptravel. I am aiming for crossover steering, not a huge fan of Y link type stuff. We will see what i can come up with. Clearance will be tight.
Tie rod with 7/8 heims from Ruffstuff, 1.5" x .120 wall DOM, rosette welds etc.. and the 4 bolt quick ratio steering box from Wild Horses.
Thinking the drop pitman arm might not be best for uptravel. I am aiming for crossover steering, not a huge fan of Y link type stuff. We will see what i can come up with. Clearance will be tight.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 48,289
You could try the #791275 pitman arm to see how it's going to work for you. If you like the drop and the size, you could heat and twist it to have the correct angle for a rear facing application like yours.
The hole in the end is already for the larger tapered studs, which means it might have more beef than most if you drill it out for spherical rod ends and bolts.
Or you could go custom and get one just perfect for your needs.
Paul
The hole in the end is already for the larger tapered studs, which means it might have more beef than most if you drill it out for spherical rod ends and bolts.
Or you could go custom and get one just perfect for your needs.
Paul
Similar threads
City: Lodi
Price: $20
City: Fort Lauderdale
Price: $225k