Motor Options and CHAOS!

[74lumenaire]

Really struggling with the idea of doing the explorer swap. I love the simplicity of a carb, even though I know they don't run as good as EFI. I bought and am currently removing the 5.0 out of a 97 explorer. Been thinking to myself, now am going to out loud. Please don't bash me too hard! Could I put the serp and GT40 heads on the old motor with FItech. Or now heres the really good one could I put a regular intake and Fitech on a explorer motor and not mess with a bunch of wiring (would also be a roller motor)?? Someone please tell me If I am going insane. I have read all of the explorer swaps threads till Iam sick of them and feel like I have just confused myself on what I want. Of course the project is moving so slow that the chaos has time to accumulate!! The kicker to this is I bought a procharger D1SC with intercooler to install before doing a lot of research, I think I can make it work but will have to do some really creative installing to get the intercooler to fit somewhere. Most cars have a lot of room between the core support and from grill/bumper, broncos do not!!

 

[Godwick]

get you a roller block, keeps the GT40 heads, fitech, and good cam and race that puppy.

 

[DirtDonk]

I don't see why you couldn't do just what you're thinking. But why not just use the entire Explorer motor already instead of putting much of it on the older engine?
Leave the Explorer motor as is except for a 4bbl intake manifold and the throttle body injection of your choice. This way you have all the modern block components, the better heads, the front dress and all the bells and whistles assuming you're going to stick with an automatic transmission.
The only thing I never remember is if there is any issue adapting the intake to the cylinder heads. I seem to remember a particular gasket set that is more desirable from this standpoint. I think I even mentioned that last month and someone provided the info, but I can't remember what the answer was!

Anyway, wait for others to confirm but I think it's doable either way.

Paul

 

[Timmy390]

I bought and am currently removing the 5.0 out of a 97 explorer.

Not being a jerk just pointing out the obvious as I see it......You have a complete EFI setup with the explorer and you're not going to use it in lieu of a TB setup that at a minimum will cost you $800 plus the fuel pump and lines.

I just don't see that as cost effective but then again I'm a cheap SOB per my wife and kids.

The harness work can be done by you. There's a "how to" thread over in "Chat" about it and EFI GUY will answer any questions you have if no one else can. While I've not reworked a Explorer harness, I did rework a 96 van speed density harness into a 95 Mustang Mass Air harness. It's not that had just takes some time and prep. Everyone here was great about answering my questions.

You'll have to run fuel lines and HP pump with either system and EFI Guy can program/chip the ECU for a modest fee.

Once reworked the Ford stuff is as clean as any system out there and you can read the codes with a cheap hand held. I even hooked up a CEL light on my dash.

The pic is of my 351w but it's clean.

Tim

 

[-8]

I really like the carburators of the 1960s. They work great. The float bowl can be modified for offroad. I have a Holley Truck Avenger but the Rochester Quadrajet and Edlebrock Thunder Series are just as good.

For the intake maniofold I would use a 1960s four barrel cast iron intake. I don't think they had any slow air speed parts. I have a 1969 cast iron 4 barrel intake and a Weiand Stealth aluminum intake. I wish to someday flow bench test these intake manifolds to see if there are any low air speed spots stock.

For cylinder heads I would use 1960s cast iron Ford cylinder heads. I want to test these in stock form on a flow bench for slow air speed spots. I think the Ford GT40/Lightning cylinder heads are good. The Cleveland 2V cylinder heads are fantastic! The Cleveland 2V cylinder heads however require a special intake manifold and/or adapter and are not on my list. I may however buy a Cleveland 2V and run in in my Bronco someday. I am currently using Edlebrock Performer cylinder heads with ramps welded into the ports to perfect air speed

For engine block the '60s made the strongest. I think that the strongest went until 1969 and then '71 to '74 were still very stout and then socialism took American engines away. The 351W was always more durable than the 302.

I would use a camshaft tailored for offroading rather than drag racing because you must have great low end torque to start in extreme conditions. I would want the fastest ramp rate built into the camshaft lobes. The rocker arms can have higher ratios than stock which would also improve ramp rates. I think that softer valve springs take less torque to turn the engine than stiffer valve springs and softer valve springs would allow the valves to float at higher rpms and this would be very efficient and relieve torque at low and medium rpms.


Do roller lifters allow faster ramp rates in offroad trucks than flat tappet lifter camshafts or do roller lifters just offer increased camshaft life?

I am leaning toward putting a dual point distributor in my 351W. I do not want electronic interference to cause my engine to stop running ever. The points certainly have to be changed routinely but you can carry spares.

For the headers longer primary tubes make more torque. The bends reduce torque significantly! Removing bends from the header and making a straighter tube closer to the exhaust valve is of great importance. The outside diameter is normally 1-5/8" with thin wall tubing but the thicker wall tube last longer. I am going to use thick wall stainless steel headers with primary tubes of ~18" long and a great cone in the collector to make my turbochargers spool. My headers are going to be upswept.

I am leaning toward a dry sump oil pan to relieve space between my dual triangulated 4-link front. It will act as a tummy-tuck. I don't need my Bronco to have the suspension of a monster truck. I am going to run a decent oil cooler.

I have TRW forged pistons because they last longer. The cast pistons may break. and every time I throw something away I lost money. I would only bore the engine to relive a worn cylinder wall and then the wall is thinner and more prone to cavitation. This stinks. Its not a Volkswagon type-1 where I can buy thick wall cylinders of nearly any bore.

I have stock '76 connecting rods with ARP bolts. I will see if they last. H-beam connecting rods are better. I would love to buy a set made by an American machinest.

I have a stock 351W crankshaft of 3.5" stroke. I want the fit the longest storke I can fit in there. I have ARP main bolts, crank scraper and windage tray. I don't know if I want a girdle.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Well Tim...
Maybe 74lumenaire, like me, just can't stand the thought of a fuel injection setup under the hood of his nice old car.
For some of us, you can name off lots of benefits of FI, but it just won't stick.

 

[Timmy390]

Well Tim...
Maybe 74lumenaire, like me, just can't stand the thought of a fuel injection setup under the hood of his nice old car.
For some of us, you can name off lots of benefits of FI, but it just won't stick.

Oh I know....and I'm by no means trying to say there's anything wrong with a carb. I was coming from the perspective of IF going EFI (OP mentioned FiTech option) I would go with the explorer setup over the FiTech because he already has a complete setup.

My 69 Mach 1 390FE has a carb (770 street avenger)....Drove it this weekend.....Fired right up and ran good. ;D

Tim

 

[Twidgeon]

I just finished up the wiring using the videos from EFI guy. I had the computer flashed by EFI guy and he even had a spare laying around he flashed and sold me for a really fair price. I'm sticking with everything stock for the time being just to see how I like it. The hardest part of the whole swap was rebuilding the 4R70W. Luckily youtube has some videos that walk you through step by step, I mean every bolt! Everything you need to do the swap is on this site. I like to keep things as simple as I can, less stuff to break. Just my two cents.

 

[74lumenaire]

Thank you for the responses! I snapped out of the funk I was in and decided To go ahead with the explorer 5.0l. Just got the explorer stripped today! Still need to strip out some more wiring, the computer box, the fuel pump inertia switch, and the odb2 harness. Anyone know we're this inertia switch is?

 

[sykanr0ng]

Thank you for the responses! I snapped out of the funk I was in and decided To go ahead with the explorer 5.0l. Just got the explorer stripped today! Still need to strip out some more wiring, the computer box, the fuel pump inertia switch, and the odb2 harness. Anyone know we're this inertia switch is?

Passenger footwell area, look under the carpet/mat.

 

[bax]

Passenger footwell area, look under the carpet/mat.

or in the side kick panel

 

[74lumenaire]

What year escape would be correct for pulling the computer box out of. I heard its alot eassier than pulling the explorer one out!

 

[DirtDonk]

Not sure why an Escape would have anywhere near the same computer as a V8 Explorer, but I've been fooled by this stuff before.
Where did you hear that little tidbit of info?

Be very interested to find out there's another source of good ECU's for an Explorer V8.
You sure it was an Escape? Don't they have 4-bangers and hybrid engine setups only? Or is there another one that snuck in there and, in typical fashion, I was not paying attention?

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Maybe they have a V6 and are a compatible swap for an Explorer V6 ECU?
That would seem plausible.

Paul

 

[garberz]

Paul, he's talking about the ECU mounting box from an Escape, not the ECU itself.

Mark

 

[DirtDonk]

duh... Thanks!
He did say "box" didn't he? Guess I should learn to read.

Or just get back to work!

Paul

 

[garberz]

duh... Thanks!
He did say "box" didn't he? Guess I should learn to read.

Or just get back to work!

Paul

The way it's worded would lead you to believe he's talking about the computer. I remember reading EFIguy's thread about using the mounting box from an Escape, but I don't know what year to source them from.

Mark

 

[sykanr0ng]

The way it's worded would lead you to believe he's talking about the computer. I remember reading EFIguy's thread about using the mounting box from an Escape, but I don't know what year to source them from.

Mark

2003 works, there are probably other years that also work.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2508040&postcount=152

 

[EFI Guy]

I'm unsure of the exact years for the Escape box, it will probably be up to 04-05 ish. The newer ones have a PCM with 3 connectors on it, you want an early one with a single connector like the Explorer has.

 

[74lumenaire]

I was just talking about the mounting box