Mountaineer/Explorer 5.0 Swap

[sprdv1]

Was thinking about this thread today as I was hooking up the heater.

Tape marking the cuts is approximate, every Bronco is slightly different.

This is what amount of hose that you have left over.

keep after it

 

[scotte6]

Is this the adapter you used for the transmission?
AA adapter for mating 4r70W to Dana D20. Most popular option is the ZF adapter: Advance Adapters Transfer Case Adapters 50-4303 cut .8" to 1.5" off the tail shaft to make it
The description on the AA website says it is for Ford ZF 5 speed.

 

[904Bronco]

Is this the adapter you used for the transmission?
AA adapter for mating 4r70W to Dana D20. Most popular option is the ZF adapter: Advance Adapters Transfer Case Adapters 50-4303 cut .8" to 1.5" off the tail shaft to make it
The description on the AA website says it is for Ford ZF 5 speed.

There are two AA adapters...

One is for a 4R70W AWD transmission, It uses an adapter on the back of the transmission and then an adapter ring. It extends the length of the Trans and D20 3 inches. But you do not have to go internally into the transmission.

The second one is for the 2WD 4R70W, you have to go into the guts of the tranny and replace the output shaft. It has a different adapter and spud shaft for the back of the transmission that D20 bolts to. It makes the Trans and D20 1.5" longer.

In my conversations with the Tech folks at AA, they recommend the using the second option on either tranny.

So in order to answer your question, which 4R70W do you have?

 

[scotte6]

There are two AA adapters...

One is for a 4R70W AWD transmission, It uses an adapter on the back of the transmission and then an adapter ring. It extends the length of the Trans and D20 3 inches. But you do not have to go internally into the transmission.

The second one is for the 2WD 4R70W, you have to go into the guts of the tranny and replace the output shaft. It has a different adapter and spud shaft for the back of the transmission that D20 bolts to. It makes the Trans and D20 1.5" longer.

In my conversations with the Tech folks at AA, they recommend the using the second option on either tranny.

So in order to answer your question, which 4R70W do you have?

I have the 4R70W AWD transmission. I was planning on having it rebuilt before installing, seems like the second option would be best?

 

[1buckeyefan1]

I have the 4R70W AWD transmission. I was planning on having it rebuilt before installing, seems like the second option would be best?

I attached a picture of what the ZF adapter looks like attached to my Dana20. I bought a running/driving 2001 Explorer and didn't want to tear down the AWD 4R70W, so I went the ZF route.

If you're having your transmission already rebuilt, I'd probably go after the other AA kit that replaces the tailshaft.. It does cost a little more, but the other factor is that that kit comes with a new adapter/tailhousing that will bolt into a modified transmission crossmember (see pics mounted to my frame).

I mistakenly bought (and powdercoated) that crossmember only to realize I need a different one for the ZF adapter b/c you lose the 'ears' on the side when you remove the adapter/tailpiece from the Dana20. I'm waiting for my new crossmember to ship from BC (see stock pics..this one uses the 4R70W pad mount points instead) and I'll probably end up listing my shiny powdercoated one on the classifieds.

 

[1buckeyefan1]

So in the interest of keeping this thread informative, here are some pics of the ZF adapter install. I followed Chuzie's guide here..

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=210157&highlight=4r70w&page=2

Just be aware that he realized/added the Timkin seal later in the thread.. you'll want to add that step in before you put the new spudshaft together. I didn't think to get a picture of the seal in place, but be aware that the 'open' part of the seal should be facing the transmission. You effectively tap it into the AA adapter housing on the face, much like putting in a rear axle seal.

 

[904Bronco]

I have the 4R70W AWD transmission. I was planning on having it rebuilt before installing, seems like the second option would be best?

Since you are going in it, I would suggest the new output shaft adapter kit.

The AA Tech I spoke with a year ago said in his opinion, it was a better way to go since I had no history on my Tranny core.

 

[bflippinw]

Sorry to hijack but I put that timken seal in the adapter the wrong way but this is for an ax15. Anyone know if this is a problem? The ax15 has another seal on the trans side.

 

[oldschoolbronc]

Hi was wondering if the bronco hut headers worked with the gt40p heads?

 

[Jedeka]

I put Bronco Hut headers on my P heads and everything cleared fine.

 

[1buckeyefan1]

Hi was wondering if the bronco hut headers worked with the gt40p heads?

I haven't purchased mine yet, but consensus here is that they seem to fit the best if you're looking for a GT40P/EB fit.

The only part I'm still debating is to get bare steel in case I need to modify them a bit.. then ceramic coat after.

 

[76MaBronco]

On my old rig, I used the factory Explorer manifolds. Everything cleared fine.


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[1buckeyefan1]

On my old rig, I used the factory Explorer manifolds. Everything cleared fine.


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I'm considering this yet too. Did you delete your EGR? If so, what did you plug the EGR port on the passenger manifold with?

 

[76MaBronco]

I think I kept the EGR. It’s been a while and my memory isn’t as sharp as it once was.


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[904Bronco]

I'm considering this yet too. Did you delete your EGR? If so, what did you plug the EGR port on the passenger manifold with?

I am giving this a try on my 69 Build. These are aftermarket exhaust manifolds from Dorman (Rock Auto). The 96 style exhaust manifolds are restrictive IMHO, so I went with the later style. The adapter that comes with the Pass side manifold is Metric thread. I looked at welding up the hole in the adapter, but decided to give this a try. The center port in the adapter is bigger than needed for a 1/4 pipe plug, but I ran a tap down in it anyway and screwed this steel plug in it. Haven't fired it off yet, but hoping it works.

There is a company in AZ that makes bilet aluminum caps to block off the exhaust to EGR and it appears the adapter is 21mm. But they were slow to respond to my email query, and unsure (no experience) if one of their caps would fit.

 

[JKH67302]

It is 21mm. I used a drain plug from a 1994 Dodge with a Cummins, it was the same size and pitch. It's a solid piece of steel so it should work fine. I put some high-temp rtv on the threads for good measure since the original fitting is flared at the very top. The best part was that is was only 4 bucks!

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[JKH67302]

I checked my notes and I was mistaken the threads on the exhaust manifold are M22-1.5, not 21mm.

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[904Bronco]

I checked my notes and I was mistaken the threads on the exhaust manifold are M22-1.5, not 21mm.

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Thanks for that, now I have a backup plan if the adapter spits out my plug.

 

[1buckeyefan1]

Got my ZF adapter mounted up and my JBFab twin sticks installed. I was able to follow Chuzie's thread here almost to a T.

AA ZF Adapter: went together pretty much like Chuzie said. Ensure you get the timken seal installed in the correct direction. I ended up cutting about 5/8" off the my 4R70W tailshaft. Same drill as Chuzie, taped it off, rotated and cut it with a cutting disc. I left about 1/16-1/8" play so it wouldn't bottom out when I put it together.

When you go to install it onto your 4R70W, i was also stumped on why my twin sticks wouldn't fit quite right. I almost went to cut into the JB bracket, but re-read his thread and decided to move the clocking position to the 'last' and not the middle threaded hole. Worked like a champ.

Also, the 1.25" bolts that came with the ZF adapter were too short. I tried using them and quickly pulled out the first two threads of the aluminum adapter like he did. I went out and bought some 2" bolts instead and use the full threaded portion of the ZF adapter. I used a little blue loctite for good measure.. hopefully i never have to take this sucker apart, not a big fan of aluminum threads.

Twin sticks - the JB fab bracket worked like a champ. I had my doubts at first, but cut off the rear boss at a 30 degree angle, cut a few slits out of the webbing and bolted it in. I first tried the middle clocking hole, but realized that if I shifted it to the next (last) hole, it would twist the twin sticks a little bit and all fit up. Had to cut a slit in the J-shift flags for them to operate independently now.

Chuzie, all.. I really appreciate the guide and pictures. Makes a newbie like me feel comfortable enough to give this a shot. Hopefully this thread can help others.

 

[1buckeyefan1]

Finally got the engine, 4r70w and d20 put back onto the chassis. Now the fun begins.. as I figure out the spacer needed for the BC Crossmember vs. driveshaft angle.

I also hit the same wall that Chuzie did with the ZF adapter clocked to the 'last' position in order to make the JBFab twin stick bracket to fit properly. But now my front output shaft of the D20 runs smack into the BC crossmember. I'm pretty sure i'm going to need to go back to the middle clocking position as Chuzie also did and hack up the JBFab bracket and try to make it work and gain the clearance needed for the BC crossmember.

Update: I spoke w/ Jon at JBFab.. he's seen this many times through the years. Turns out that the 'arm' adapter that his twin sticks shoulder bolt mounts to is not correct...but Advance Adapters makes this, not him. Unmodified, it will only work on the 3rd clocking position. Per his advice, I called Steve at Advance Adapters and confirmed as well.. it was built for the 3rd clocking position and never revised. So now I have to grind out the weld/webbing, leave a little bit to use as a hinge and weld it back into a more upright position so I can go back to the middle clocking position.

Crazy that this has been this way for nearly 10 years (Chuzie reported it back in 2012). Seems like i'm just retracing y'all's same steps.