Mountaineer/Explorer 5.0 Swap

[1buckeyefan1]

Quick update on my Mountaineer swap..

1.) I give huge props to whomever can pull a motor/trans out of a junkyard. I did mine in about 10hrs over a fri/sat/sun with a full disposal of air tools, torch, corded sawzall, engine hoist and a few neighbors. Granted, i'm a newbie at this, but it was work!

2.) 20yr old rusted bolts will inevitably break no matter how careful you are. I thought I was doing pretty good when the water pump bolts all spun free, and then was cruising with the exhaust manifold bolts... and wouldn't you know it, the last one broke w/ about 2" left exposed. I heated, oiled, welded nuts to it and it only sheared closer and closer to the head. I got it flush, drilled it, and thought it'd be doable with an irwin easy-out. newbie mistake #2.. it snapped off in the bolt and took me the better part of 8hrs to drill it back out. It's now sitting at a machine shop waiting for a heli-coil. Fortunately, it was only 1 exhaust bolt, but still frustrating.

I saved almost every Mountaineer part I could unbolt and tossed them in tubs. cut the rear end off as well as the front clip. a buddy on a Ranger forum suggested that you divorce the trans/transfer and cut the front clip first... then drag it out to unbolt the motor. If I had to do it again, I think i'd do it this way... would've been much easier to get to the motor mounts, etc

Just waiting for EFI guy to tell me i'm up next on the harness. I also picked up the ZF adapter from Broncograveyard with their 10% sale.

 

[bulletpruf]

Use Kroil on rusty bolts. I've been turning wrenches for decades, have tried everything, and it definitely works the best. You have to order it online; I don't think it's sold in stores.

 

[Timmy390]

1.) I give huge props to whomever can pull a motor/trans out of a junkyard. I did mine in about 10hrs over a fri/sat/sun with a full disposal of air tools, torch, corded sawzall, engine hoist and a few neighbors. Granted, i'm a newbie at this, but it was work!

I cut my finger SO bad pulling my P heads off a 2001 Mount. Dipstick deal on the back of the head as I recall.

Middle of no where in a junkyard bleeding like crazy without a fist aid kit......I had some electrical tape (known as redneck bandaid) in my bag. Taped up and kept going.

I walked out of the yard looking like I had butchered a deer.......LOL

Tim

 

[destroyer000]

ive got a 74 and swapped in a 97 explorer 5.0 4r70w trans and a np205 case. i bought the conversion champion radiator and used the stock eb fan shroud. i rand my fuel lines and trans lines out of braded line with an fittings, i kept cruise control and the stock throttle cable from the explorer. i made a throttle cable bracked on my cnc table for the cruise and throttle since i took the elbow out of the intake power steering lines i use hydraulic lilne with an adapters for the pump and gear box. stock column to 4r70w i used some stainless rod with heims for the gear shift. rear axle was a big bearing on my 74 so i swapped in the disc brakes from the explorer axle. efi guy reporgrammed my computer, my buddy made my harness added a check engine line, cruise light, you will need the vss sensor for cruise to work, toms bronco offer a kit for the vss an the speedo cable that fits the stock cluster to vss, any questions shoot me a pm.. tried to hit a few odds ends i ran into for issues.. if your running the fuel injection your stock hood will clear if you run a body lift.. i found this out the hard way and didnt do my research and ended up with a cowl hood.

 

[TTownEP]

I got good money for the rear end (complete; I didn't save any brake parts) the wheels, tires, the hatch and rear bumper, a rear door, and the cats. Paid for the whole truck and the UHaul trailer rental with a few dollars left over. $600 for the truck and $750 in part sales.

I got Peddle to haul the carcass away and they gave me another $55 cash.

Free engine and trans FTW.

It was high mileage though, so I am rebuilding the motor now.

 

[jmhend]

You can use a stock radiator (or replacement with stock inlet/outlet), you just need different hoses. 1998 4.6 Crown Victoria upper hose #22392 and 2002 7.3 diesel F350 lower #22690 work with a little trimming. The fan will be out of the shroud, but you can swap on a fan clutch from a 2008 Trailblazer 5.3L to move the fan closer to the radiator and back into the shroud. Picture of the fan clutch difference is attached.

that fan clutch is perfect, I put an electric fan on because I had not asked or even thought about using a shorter one.... On order... thanks for posting

 

[SteveL]

Hijack question. If doing the explorer front dress to an existing 351w does that 7.3 lower hose work with a stock eb radiator?

 

[904Bronco]

Hijack question. If doing the explorer front dress to an existing 351w does that 7.3 lower hose work with a stock eb radiator?

For some it seems to work... On my 3 Explorer builds it did not ?:?

 

[broncochevy]

How’s the progress on the build? Hope all is going well.

 

[1buckeyefan1]

How’s the progress on the build? Hope all is going well.

Perfect timing here in cold Ohio to revive my build. Plus I have tons of questions..

Update: I eventually got the manifold bolt drilled out. For anyone else in this situation, use kroil and care. If you break one, find a shop and have them 'laser' it out. saves you tons of headaches and would've been my best option in hindsight.

So now i've got my frame ready, my body blasted and primed and simply waiting on black friday next week to start ordering my needed parts. For anyone following my build thread, i ultimately decided to do a frame-off, 'most all nut & bolt' restoration.. i'll keep it up to date also.

Questions:
while I have the explorer 302 motor on a stand, i'm going to degrease and soda blast it. would you epoxy prime it all first, then hit it with a good engine paint? if so, what does everyone like? I also have access to a small eastwood powder coating setup that I might do the serpentine bits or simply clean them and hit them with eastwood's cast blast.

what should i replace while I have the block on a stand? the valve covers are pretty well pitted. I think i like the standoffs for the fuel rails, etc, so i'm hitting pick n pull this week to find a better set. I always envisioned using the drake/carb bronco script valve covers, but unsure if they're worth messing with vs. simply selling them and painting up a stock set.

I'm planning to replace the oil pan seal, valve cover seals, the upper intake seal, and likely the water pump seal. i do have a new Ford timing chain I can put on for good measure too.

Would you replace any of the injectors? I plan to pull them when i goto paint. I might pick up a few spares while i'm at pick n pull this week in case i need them.

fuel delivery. I plan to buy the BC EFI fuel line kit and clips. I bought an older NWMP 23gal tank and external pump from another member. I would really like a new tank + internal pump, but the price was right on this one..and I think it's something I can always upgrade later. My explorer is a 2001, (I believe returnless system). I think my injectors are 14#. Based on the pictures of my pump, how do I know it's 'matched' for my setup? What sort of regulator do I need to use, etc?

gears: front axle and center section are getting regeared now for 4.56. I believe I'm also going to need new axle shafts since i'm going to use the ZF adapter w/ my new center section? I'm just running a 2" body lift, no suspension lift. I plan to get it all sitting on the frame w/ suspension and measure when I get there. Is Ron Davis shafts the preferred route for most folks doing this swap? I believe I have to not only get the new length, but front has to be a smaller diameter also.

Headers: I'm also planning to get the broncohut headers for the GT40P heads. Any opinions on stainless vs. ceramic coated?

Radiator: I have a new aluminum 3-row drake that I bought when i thought I was keeping the original block. I'm leaning towards the crossover hose setup.. but would also like a nice shroad for it. The only nice one seems to be the aluminum one that WH sells. Or is a better option to do with a 94 explorer radiator and the matching shroud? This would also give me a cleaner hose setup.

Harness: got it back last year from EFI guy. Can't wait to start installing!

I really hope my pulley doesn't cause me an issue w/ the front crossmember. If not, it sounds like I can simply replace w/ a smaller one.

Again, thanks to all that have gotten me to where I am. I had a good, running 302/C4 setup, but you'd inspired me to go Explorer EFI while it's all blown apart. I wouldn't have attempted this w/out the sage wisdom of this forum.

 

[Jedeka]

I am following your steps. I just removed everything I think I may need from a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer with 227,000 miles. I cut the front clip off, which made access really easy. I had the engine running and it sounded really good. I got the engine on the stand and was going to clean up, replace head gaskets, crank seals, water pump, timing chain, oil pump and other gaskets. After removing the intake and heads, I decided to rebuild the engine. I didn’t like the soot in the intake valley and oil pan, after further tear down. My Bronco is going to be a frame-off, so I want everything in good shape as I move further.

 

[904Bronco]

Had a similar experience with a Early 97 motor I picked up in Idaho this June, 130K miles, pulled it at a U-pull yard, looked good outside.

Was going to do as you planned with freshening, pulled the pan and then saw something in one cylinder that did not look good.

.020 later, with a fresh Comp cam that EFI Guy recommended and we are still moving forward on the Bronco ;D

 

[Jedeka]

904, any insight on the cam? If I am in mine this deep, I may upgrade the cam, if it adds torque in the Right RPM range.

 

[904Bronco]

904, any insight on the cam? If I am in mine this deep, I may upgrade the cam, if it adds torque in the Right RPM range.

The cam #35-349-8

For tuning purposes, Garry may have to bump the curb idle up 50 rpm and best to check the fuel trims after it is running. But for many his base settings are fine.

From what I read, It is good in the 1,500 - 5000 rpm range, requires their valve springs, and different valve guide seals. Which increases cost of the rebuild.

Mine will not be running until the Spring...

 

[1buckeyefan1]

The cam #35-349-8

For tuning purposes, Garry may have to bump the curb idle up 50 rpm and best to check the fuel trims after it is running. But for many his base settings are fine.

From what I read, It is good in the 1,500 - 5000 rpm range, requires their valve springs, and different valve guide seals. Which increases cost of the rebuild.

Mine will not be running until the Spring...

904.. thanks for chiming in (I figured you would). I've been re-reading many of your Explorer swap threads. If you've got any thoughts on my build questions, i'd love your opinion.

I also updated my original swap post to include more part numbers for things like the AC delete serp belt, the heater controls, etc. Again, hoping to pay it forward for anyone else considering a swap. If you see any omissions, let me know and I can update.

 

[904Bronco]

904.. thanks for chiming in (I figured you would). I've been re-reading many of your Explorer swap threads. If you've got any thoughts on my build questions, i'd love your opinion.

I also updated my original swap post to include more part numbers for things like the AC delete serp belt, the heater controls, etc. Again, hoping to pay it forward for anyone else considering a swap. If you see any omissions, let me know and I can update.

Copy that...

You know the 1st Bronco I did with Mustang based EFI 18 years ago, I was running blind. I relied heavily on my Fox body Mustang buddies, and the Tech tips from others here. I didn't track what I used, part numbers or cost. (I am sure the Wife did... LOL) But you do one and suddenly your are an expert, so to speak...

Here I am on my 4th Explorer conversion, I have a spread sheet, with who I bought the parts from, the date, the cost, and most importantly the part #'s.

I have picked up a lot of information from Folks on this Site, Never be able to pay them back. But, I hope with me sharing experiences and more importantly the pictures, it will help folks do an easier and cleaner install.

And hats off to Garry for making this possible.

 

[Crazyhorse1977]

As we one info here I am so thankful for everyone’s contributions on this site, I am doing my first 2000 Explorer swap on my 77. Currently side tracked with rust repair I wasn’t planning on doing lol. - inner fender aprons and core support possibly full floor next. Just sent my harness to Garry for rework today. Did you all replace any of the bolts for the front serp pieces? Like water pump bolts and throttle body to intake bolts? Where did you get them if so? I checked rock auto and they have a set of three for the pump but there’s more than 3 that hold it on! I’m trying to take it a day at a time because I don’t want to forget stuff lol.

 

[904Bronco]

As we one info here I am so thankful for everyone’s contributions on this site, I am doing my first 2000 Explorer swap on my 77. Currently side tracked with rust repair I wasn’t planning on doing lol. - inner fender aprons and core support possibly full floor next. Just sent my harness to Garry for rework today. Did you all replace any of the bolts for the front serp pieces? Like water pump bolts and throttle body to intake bolts? Where did you get them if so? I checked rock auto and they have a set of three for the pump but there’s more than 3 that hold it on! I’m trying to take it a day at a time because I don’t want to forget stuff lol.

Welcome Crazy Horse 1977...

I tend to clean up and reuse most bolts.
Serp bolts can be reused, unless you are dealing with an Eastcoast car, then it depends on condition.

Timing cover and water pump is a crap shoot. Some clean up, well others are to far gone. Generally replace anything questionable with matching grade 8 pieces.

Intake, always seem to have issues with the end ones snapping off. Makes it a pain for the studs needed for the coil mounting bracket. I have harvested enough parts that I have spares I can reuse... I use ARP stainless on the intake where I can.

 

[toddz69]

Copy that...

You know the 1st Bronco I did with Mustang based EFI 18 years ago, I was running blind. I relied heavily on my Fox body Mustang buddies, and the Tech tips from others here. I didn't track what I used, part numbers or cost. (I am sure the Wife did... LOL) But you do one and suddenly your are an expert, so to speak...

Here I am on my 4th Explorer conversion, I have a spread sheet, with who I bought the parts from, the date, the cost, and most importantly the part #'s.

I have picked up a lot of information from Folks on this Site, Never be able to pay them back. But, I hope with me sharing experiences and more importantly the pictures, it will help folks do an easier and cleaner install.

And hats off to Garry for making this possible.

And 904, we are indebted to you for your info and experience on the Explorer swaps! I was in the vanguard of the early EB 5.0 swappers in the '90s and now I'm on the opposite end of things and very grateful that people like you that 'do it right' that can help those of us along that will be converting to the Explorer EFI.

Todd Z.

 

[71 CA Bronco]

This might be helpful regarding the bolts. I had the same trouble with water pump and intake bolts. Made this bolt shopping list. Anyone using it should double check all bolt sizes but should get you in the ball park.

Fortunately, ARP is here in Ventura. I just stopped by and they made a custom bolt set for me on the spot. Before this I searched everywhere and could not find the right set. This worked out awesome.