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My '69 Build

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Devin

Devin

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Apr 29, 2004
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Well, I got everything back together. Life has been hectic lately and I haven't had much time to work on the old beast. I fired her up again today and tried to put the timing light on her. The damn alt bracket is blocking the light. I can't seem to position the light in any way to illuminate the balancer. I will try again at night, maybe.

But, she runs - albeit she is running very rich. I am not sure if that is a byproduct of the timing or of the map. Also, it looks like my BP-oil leak has been slowed tremendously, but it is still there. Stupid four-piece oil pan gaskets.
 

Stutsmo

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Hey devin Glad to see this is running it has been one of my favorite builds to watch since I have been hanging around this site.
 

bax

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Could be a bit rich. You should be able to see if the computer is adding or taking away fuel. If you think it's real rich Highlight the entire map and drop it by 10.
I have no problems with the timing mark.
 
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Devin

Devin

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Could be a bit rich. You should be able to see if the computer is adding or taking away fuel. If you think it's real rich Highlight the entire map and drop it by 10.
I have no problems with the timing mark.

I think it has to do with where my upper radiator hose sits. It is right in the way of where I would like to hold the timing light. Once I get her timed better than by "ear", I will start futzing with the map. What size injectors do you run again, Bax?
 

bax

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36's are you running 24's? could be part of the problem. What cam/ mine is a 270 HR comp cam. I think our motors are pretty close to the same.
 
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Devin

Devin

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Yeah, I am running 24s. My cam is a comp 265DEH.
 

bax

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Yeah that map may be a little rich. Check it with the lap top. See if it is taking away fuel.
makes sense that it is rich. My cam is a bit larger that yours.
 
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Devin

Devin

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Ok, I could see the marks in the dark. However, when I go to put the timing at 14 deg, it dies. It will only stay running at quite a bit more than 20?
 

bax

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What is your rpm? You have spark control so if your rpms are high you may need to match the timing for the rpm on the spark map. You may need to adjust the rpm in the computer to bring the rpm down. Adjusting the throttle position will not do it. The IAC will compensate and try to hold the idle to the setting. Oh yeah it can be fun.
 
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Devin

Devin

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Well, I have gotten it to idle nicely. Turns out I wasn't running rich - I was way lean. So, I uploaded a different fuel map and she is idling pretty sweetly now with pretty good A/F levels. Then, something happened. There is something messed up now with the ECU. It isn't going into closed loop any longer. Thus, my idle air control valve is not operating, and my spark control is non-existent. I will try and troubleshoot that tomorrow. I have to head up to do some pre-halloween stuff with the kids, but I will try and get a video of her idling. She sounds awesome.
 

bmc69

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Well, I have gotten it to idle nicely. However, there is something messed up now with the ECU. It isn't going into closed loop any longer. Thus, my idle air control valve is not operating, and my spark control is non-existent. I have to head up to do some pre-halloween stuff with the kids, but I will try and get a video of her idling. She sounds awesome.

I thought the only thresholds to going in and out of closed loop are the water temp (in) and the TPS past WOT (out) ?? Bax..you know of any others?
 
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Devin

Devin

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I thought the only thresholds to going in and out of closed loop are the water temp (in) and the TPS past WOT (out) ?? Bax..you know of any others?

RPM is the other. Everything checks out. It just quit doing it for some reason. I am getting the "O2 lit off" cell highlighted also. I am not sure WTF that means, though (can't find it in the manual).
 

bax

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There are setting that allow you to go from alpha N to closed loop. They are rpm based. Loading the new map may have changed these settings. Especially if it was a non ford map. I ac and WOT are both changed when a new map is installed from an example / existing map. Check / reset your IAC values and WOT values in the new map. Check wiring to the o2 sensor.
 
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Devin

Devin

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There are setting that allow you to go from alpha N to closed loop. They are rpm based. Loading the new map may have changed these settings. Especially if it was a non ford map. I ac and WOT are both changed when a new map is installed from an example / existing map. Check / reset your IAC values and WOT values in the new map. Check wiring to the o2 sensor.

When I loaded the new map, I only sent the fuel map, nothing else. I went ahead and double checked the parameters, though, they seem fine.
 

bax

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Well I was hoping that would work. welcome to the wide world of do it yourself computer tuning.
 
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Devin

Devin

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Well I was hoping that would work. welcome to the wide world of do it yourself computer tuning.

Yeah. She idles nice, but she doesn't do much else nice right now. Have a bit of work to do. ;)


Needabronco - I don't know when the paint will happen. I really wanted to do it this summer when it was warm outside. But, like always, stuff happens and I am wickedly slow. I want to get the motor tuned a little so that I can start it and have it run fairly well at idle. Then I will give the dude up at the high school a call about the paint booth.
 
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Devin

Devin

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This thing has a mind of its own it seems. Very touchy to working around with the maps and uploading stuff. It will run fine one second, then it starts doing weird shit the next time I try and run it. Frustrating so far. Also, the damn thing still won't go into closed loop. I am getting voltage from my O2 sensor, I have verified that my IAC is working, RPM signal is coming through. I don't know what is going on. Going to contact Holley support.
 
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Devin

Devin

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Got the closed loop thing figured out. I spent about two hours today properly bleeding the power steering/hydroboost system. Patience is the KEY with this. Anyway, a short video as promised:

[youtube]A9SCPItAcig[/youtube]
 

bax

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Sounds good. What was up with the closed loop settings?
 
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