Nice write up! I would love to pick your brain on shock tuning.... I am running Bilstein 7100's front and rear. I have a fairly heavy Bronco and it seems really under damped, espcailly on the sand dunes. I want to revalve the shocks but I don't know how far to go.
Front: single14" travel 7100 short body/remote reservoir 389/94 Digressive
Weight: LF 1300lbs RF 1400lbs
Mounted vertically behind the spring on hoops to CAGE long arms
Rear: single 12" travel 7100 short body/remote reservoir 255/70 Linear
Weight: LR 1375lbs RR 1300lbs
Upper mount is moved back about 3" resulting in about a 10-15 degree increase in angle.
This is an all purpose rig; I drive it around town, it has been on the Rubicon a couple of times, yearly trips to the dune and someday baja!
Best Regards, Tony
I'll start by saying 90 % of my experience is with coilovers on the front. But I spring rate principles are the same with regular coils they just are far more progressive being shorter and made from a stiffer wire. I guess what I would call issues are digressive shocks unfortunately are the opposite of what you want. When the springs are extended and soft, you only need a little dampening. When they are compressed and stiff, you need a lot of dampening. That problem becomes worse with traditional coils because extended they have basically zero spring rate and when compressed, they are very stiff. Coilover is less in both aspects. When extended they still have spring pressure(preload from upper adjuster) and when compressed, they aren't nearly as stiff because they are softer and so much longer. Usually why a single coilover can work better than even a normal cool and bypass shock.
Your rear issue with the shock angle is an issue because 1 you already do not have a progressive shock, but when you spring gets compressed and stiffer, the shock becomes less effective.
Unfortunately my answer to help is bypass shocks. But they're spendy. But they also ride better in ever aspect. Street, dirt, rocks etc. And theyre adjustible. You go to Baja with a bunch of stuff in your rig , you can right up the compression a few turns and keep it from bottoming out. Rear shock really would be alot better in a vertical position and as close to 1 to 1 ration with the axle. But you'll need a 12in travel shock and definitely be through the floor.
You weight balance is really good being even and not front heavy. So that a big plus right from the start. More weight on the rear, especially hanging over the rear out back, helps keep the front from dropping in between woops or into holes when moving along pretty good.