My wandering 76 Bronco. Help Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Madgyver]

Stock 76-77 Y steering linkages with 2.5" suspension lift may be your issue. And caster.

 

[LHardin]

Stock 76-77 Y steering linkages with 2.5" suspension lift may be your issue. And caster.

Thanks

 

[bigmuddy]

Mad makes a great point, the old Y style linkage doesn't play well with suspension lifts. The T style linkage is much more accomodating, not perfect by a long shot but better. I would advocate replacing yours with the 1 ton T style conversion linkage.

 

[SeaVee]

Like this?

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/76-77-ford-bronco-3-way-adjustable-steering-linkage

 

[LHardin]

Mad makes a great point, the old Y style linkage doesn't play well with suspension lifts. The T style linkage is much more accomodating, not perfect by a long shot but better. I would advocate replacing yours with the 1 ton T style conversion linkage.

Thanks

 

[LHardin]

Like this?

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/76-77-ford-bronco-3-way-adjustable-steering-linkage

Thanks

 

[SeaVee]

My mechanic is telling me to ditch the 77 steering setup, 2 1/2 inch lift and 30x9.5x15 on stock rims. Would switching to the Wild Horse product improve it that much? He like the Duff Heim setup but that seems like overkill for this build, which may see some sand but that’s about it. TIA

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks for the link to our product!
Just be aware that changing the design of the linkage can necessitate a couple of additional parts. Including a nonstandard dropped Pitman Arm and sometimes tapered sleeves.
The fly in the ointment is the larger track bar bracket on the frame of the 76 and 77 Broncos.

Basically, what you do could be dictated by how you intend to use the vehicle.
The three overriding factors are, what tire size will you be using, along with wheel size and offset of course, and how will you be utilizing the bronco.
If larger tires and hard use are in its future, then changing the linkage to the arguably stronger early style is the way to go.
If just normal street use and modest size tires are intended, keeping the stock inverted-Y linkage and adding a dropped track bar bracket and dropped Pitman Arm is probably the most economical and effective way to proceed.

Geometry-wise, the 76 and 77 linkage was probably a good design. The way it changes toe-in as the suspension moves, however, and the way that the two bars are attached to each other, gives it some problems when used harder.

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and the “1 ton” linkage that bigmuddy was referencing is a different beast at least slightly. Similar idea achieved through different means.

 

[DirtDonk]

Sand use can be misleading.
In its purest form, the low traction of sand would not be as hard on the stock Y linkage as higher traction situations with bigger tires.
However, all it takes is transitioning from tires spinning freely to tire grabbing on to something, to highlight the weakness of the stock linkage.
More than one has turned taco shaped under torque in four-wheel-drive.

I’m not sure I completely understand your mechanics recommendation though. Is he saying to get rid of the lift and install 30X9.50 tires? Or is that the tire size you already have?

And for those following, remember that we are talking about two different Broncos here. The original poster LHardin, and SeaVee’s.

 

[SeaVee]

Yeah- I kinda highjacked his thread and will gladly start a new one if that’s better. We are keeping the 2.5 Duff lift and running those 9.5x15’s on stock rims. Mechanic ( who is the EB guru in my area) thinks the stock 77 setup will be suboptimal. He like the Duff Heim solution. I think it may be overkill so I am considering the WH conversion. Only wheeling in my future is some light sand running. Trying to decide between these two options. Thanks

 

[Madgyver]

Like this?

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/76-77-ford-bronco-3-way-adjustable-steering-linkage

I went through this... Ran this kit for a couple of years but my geometry of my steering was still off for my liking.
I stepped up and went with ruff stuff GM 1 ton TRE steering link and installed it over the knuckle. probably over 20 years now. I also did the same set up on the Firebronco. I also relocated the axle tracbar mount on the axle to have tracbar be parallel with steering link at ride height.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1305.html

 

[LHardin]

My mechanic is telling me to ditch the 77 steering setup, 2 1/2 inch lift and 30x9.5x15 on stock rims. Would switching to the Wild Horse product improve it that much? He like the Duff Heim setup but that seems like overkill for this build, which may see some sand but that’s about it. TIA

Thanks

 

[LHardin]

Sand use can be misleading.
In its purest form, the low traction of sand would not be as hard on the stock Y linkage as higher traction situations with bigger tires.
However, all it takes is transitioning from tires spinning freely to tire grabbing on to something, to highlight the weakness of the stock linkage.
More than one has turned taco shaped under torque in four-wheel-drive.

I’m not sure I completely understand your mechanics recommendation though. Is he saying to get rid of the lift and install 30X9.50 tires? Or is that the tire size you already have?

And for those following, remember that we are talking about two different Broncos here. The original poster LHardin, and SeaVee’s.

Thanks DirtDonk

 

[Torkman66]

It’s caster. Been building 4x4 rigs and old classics for over 45 years. While some of the issues suggested might be legit causes, in nearly every single case of wondering it is caster. Do this: get in a safe open space like an empty parking lot, get going 25 mph and do and turn either left or right then let go of the wheel (be careful please). If she’ll slowly returns to center on its own, keep looking at things other than caster. If it does not return or is very slow to return, it is a caster problem. To understand caster, examine the front wheels on a shopping cart sometime. They have a bunch of caster to make the front wheels always return to center. The best way to fix caster is to cut and rotate front axle. But that might be a bridge too far in terms of cost/time. While not the best solution, you can get lowering brackets for the arms or go with the Duff lowering arms system. Finally, make sure you have 7° c bushings and that they are not mounted upside down on one or both sides. I’ll bet you fix caster to 6° problem goes away.

 

[LHardin]

It’s caster. Been building 4x4 rigs and old classics for over 45 years. While some of the issues suggested might be legit causes, in nearly every single case of wondering it is caster. Do this: get in a safe open space like an empty parking lot, get going 25 mph and do and turn either left or right then let go of the wheel (be careful please). If she’ll slowly returns to center on its own, keep looking at things other than caster. If it does not return or is very slow to return, it is a caster problem. To understand caster, examine the front wheels on a shopping cart sometime. They have a bunch of caster to make the front wheels always return to center. The best way to fix caster is to cut and rotate front axle. But that might be a bridge too far in terms of cost/time. While not the best solution, you can get lowering brackets for the arms or go with the Duff lowering arms system. Finally, make sure you have 7° c bushings and that they are not mounted upside down on one or both sides. I’ll bet you fix caster to 6° problem goes away.

I'll give it a try.

Thanks for the information.

 

[m_m70]

Rear leaf spring bushings and U-bolts tight?

This was my issue long ago...........

 

[m_m70]

Long arms, TRex, and/or 'C' bushings can improve caster angle, but they negatively affect pinion/drive shaft angles.

This^^^

 

[LHardin]

This^^^

I installed T-Rex on my new build project for a tighter turning radius. They appear to be a far superior product over the original equipment.

I've read and been told that once you get 5" lift or more, the long arms from Duff are the best way to go (by the way, Duff has lost my favorability since they have a very clunky and difficult process to actually make a purchase in addition to the ridiculously long wait times to actually receive the part you ordered - just saying based on my personal experience)

 

[Torkman66]

Rotating the axle back( that’s what lowering the arms does) increases caster for sure. But as noted, it also changes piñon angle. Again my experience only, but that piñon angle will never be a problem. Front axle is rarely if ever used in 4 wheel drive. Even when it is used you’re crawling at 5 mph. That piñon angle is fine at slow speed. You would be concerned if we were talking about the rear piñon angle but we’re not. Unless you are a dirt strip racer in 4x4 or you just want to cruise down dirt roads in 4x4 at speed, don’t worry about front angles. Fix caster.