narrowing full size d44 to fit eb

[Bronco73]

i have two full size 78/79 d44 axles. since they don't seem to be selling well i figured i would look into cutting them down to fit and eb. i am hoping to get this done cheap enough to sell them. i recall a post discussing but would like some details on this proceedure. i tried searching and even went through the tech section.

i've read only 5 inches needs to be cut out of the pass. side of the axle. if so does the radius arm mounts line up correctly with the eb set up? does the d44 axle tube have to be turned down in a lath in order to press it back in the center section or can it just be cut and pressed back in? how much force or tonage does it take to press the axle tube out and in?

has any one every mounted the full size bronco radius arm mounts onto an eb and used the full size bronco radius arms?

 

[rjlougee]

I've narrowed a few of these axles myself, but always the '76/7 style, not the '78/9 type. Not much difference between them, except you can cut the passenger side wedges off and relocate them, removing the 6" from the outer end where the inner "C" presses on.

On the '78/9 type it's easiest to grind down the weld where the axle tube presses into the cast wedge section, pull it apart and take the 6" out there. In the long run, that's probably less work.

The radius arms will line up fine when done this way.

As for the radius arms themselves, there's no significant difference between them, except that the full size versions have the bolt holes for the spring cups on a slightly wider pattern than the EB ones. It can be an interesting waste of time to try and find the right spring cups and arm/cap combination...
Joe

 

[Bronco73]

It can be an interesting waste of time to try and find the right spring cups and arm/cap combination...
Joe

what would be a waste of time? mounting the full size radius arms and drop brackets or mounting the full size bronco drop brackets to the eb radius arms? its nothing i plan on doing it was just a question that popped into my head.

how do you keep the camber caster set when pressing the axle tube back in? how large of a press does one need to do this and does the axle od need to be machined down at all or just cut it and press it back in? thanks

 

[rjlougee]

what would be a waste of time?

Just trying to get the radius arm, radius arm cap and spring cup all from the same setup (I. e. EB or BB/F). Since they're set to be all narrow on the EB and all wide on the BB/F series, then mixing and matching parts can be an exercise in frustration.

I really wasn't commenting on the F series radius arm mounts, before I swapped a set of those on I'd extend the arms and run a Johnny Joint on the back of it.
Joe

 

[Broncobowsher]

Another option is to use BCBroncos wristed axle housing kit. Instead of just making one cut and installing the kit, you make 2 cuts and narrow the axle housing. Talk to Chuck at BC and he will guide you down how to do it.

 

[mr.n]

i have two full size 78/79 d44 axles. since they don't seem to be selling well i figured i would look into cutting them down to fit and eb. i am hoping to get this done cheap enough to sell them. i recall a post discussing but would like some details on this proceedure. i tried searching and even went through the tech section.

i've read only 5 inches needs to be cut out of the pass. side of the axle. if so does the radius arm mounts line up correctly with the eb set up? does the d44 axle tube have to be turned down in a lath in order to press it back in the center section or can it just be cut and pressed back in? how much force or tonage does it take to press the axle tube out and in?

has any one every mounted the full size bronco radius arm mounts onto an eb and used the full size bronco radius arms?

Correct, just do the one side.
Up here in MN we just lay the axle outside and let it freeze.

I'd suggest a 73-77 1/2 ton axle housing, good core should cost under $100. You don't NEED it, but it is stronger. Also, don't jump with the 78/79 housing style, I've seen the thin tube pop right out of the housing.

 

[Bronco73]

i will try to use one of the 78/79 housings. i don't plan on off roading the EB at all. I will more than likely restore one to a nice driver and maybe to good to take off road. maybe a little light off road beach driving and maybe a little mud once in a while. besides the axle is paid for and if i can get it cut down cheap enough I will have a disk brake d44 HP axle for next to nothing.

 

[bmc69]

We've done quite a few narrowed HP 78/79 D44s here...and that is what is under my trail rig too. I don't remove the tube on either end..just cut teh 5.?" uot of themiddel fo the long side tube, butt-weld that back together, clamshell splice it (double-tube it) and then tapered box truss from knuckle to knuckle..they stand jumping just fine.;D

Don't have a good pic with decent lighting...

 

[mr.n]

We've done quite a few narrowed HP 78/79 D44s here...and that is what is under my trail rig too. I don't remove the tube on either end..just cut teh 5.?" uot of themiddel fo the long side tube, butt-weld that back together, clamshell splice it (double-tube it) and then tapered box truss from knuckle to knuckle..they stand jumping just fine.;D

I'm not a fan of butt welding, it's not as strong and hard to align right unless you've a jig.

"they stand jumping just fine" as he post a picture with a huge axle truss... Your bending the my argument, I didn't mention anything about a trussed axle.

 

[Broncobowsher]

i will try to use one of the 78/79 housings. i don't plan on off roading the EB at all. I will more than likely restore one to a nice driver and maybe to good to take off road. maybe a little light off road beach driving and maybe a little mud once in a while. besides the axle is paid for and if i can get it cut down cheap enough I will have a disk brake d44 HP axle for next to nothing.

You may be taking on more problems then what you were originally thinking. That axle housing is a high pinion. Desired for wheeling as you can get a little more lift and still keep the front driveshaft angle reasonable.

If you are trying to put this on a restored (something without a lot of lift) bronco then you will likely encounter issues with the pinion up in the oil pan and/or exhaust.

 

[Bronco73]

You may be taking on more problems then what you were originally thinking. That axle housing is a high pinion. Desired for wheeling as you can get a little more lift and still keep the front driveshaft angle reasonable.

If you are trying to put this on a restored (something without a lot of lift) bronco then you will likely encounter issues with the pinion up in the oil pan and/or exhaust.

good point and i am sure others reading that did not know this will take notice. however i do plan on running a lift, efi, zf 5 speed. not a stock restoration by any means. maybe i will just strip one of the disk brake set ups and hold on to it, if i can not get the axle cut down cheap enough.

 

[Bronco73]

i just called the guy that cots down 9 inch axles and he is not sure what to do with the 44. he keeps saying i need to keep the axle tube aligned but i told him there is no bearing support to worry about so the bearing won't burn up. i know the camber caster has to be set.

does any have any pics and a break down on how they did this in their garage? what did or do you use to press the axle tube out of the center housing and i would guess the same press would be used to press it back in? can one heat the center housing before pressing oout and in to make it easier? how did or do you keep the camber/caster correct?

 

[fordtrucks4ever]

Just trying to get the radius arm, radius arm cap and spring cup all from the same setup (I. e. EB or BB/F). Since they're set to be all narrow on the EB and all wide on the BB/F series, then mixing and matching parts can be an exercise in frustration.

They are the same and interchangable. EB radius arm brackets are mounted under the narrow frame. FSB brackets are mounted under and inside the width of frame, making for the difference.

 

[fordtrucks4ever]

You may be taking on more problems then what you were originally thinking. That axle housing is a high pinion. Desired for wheeling as you can get a little more lift and still keep the front driveshaft angle reasonable.

If you are trying to put this on a restored (something without a lot of lift) bronco then you will likely encounter issues with the pinion up in the oil pan and/or exhaust.

Theres not a clearance issue. The yoke is set on the high side instead of low
of center housing. Nothing will change. The centerline of ring gear is in same location as before. If stock driveshaft doesnt bottom out, which shouldnt, will now travel in and out less. Unless aftermarket headers that sit forward and drop down really far, that were close to the drivershaft before, everything should be just about ideal.

 

[bmc69]

I'm not a fan of butt welding, it's not as strong and hard to align right unless you've a jig.

"they stand jumping just fine" as he post a picture with a huge axle truss... Your bending the my argument, I didn't mention anything about a trussed axle.

IF done right, the butt weld is theoretically almost as strong as the parent metal was. And a robust jig is required, yes, but it is an easy one to fab. But from there we proceed to double-tube over what was butt-welded with 1/4" wall tubing that has same ID as the OD of teh original D44 tube..the entire length of that tube. And then box-truss that. The end result is a very beefy D44..much stronger than stock and ours see a LOT of air..in MX and TT racing a well as trail rigs.

 

[scsm76]

I have seen a few narrowed using a tube to sleeve the inside on both 78-79 and the earlier non cast axles. They both seem to be holding up just fine. You just cut out the length you want to narrow the axle hoan the two remaining tube ends to smooth them out for a nice snug fit, drill some holes for rosette welds, chamfer the outside of the axle tubes, then slide the sleeve in it should be a tight fit and require some pounding or pressing, carefullly align the caster, weld up the rosette welds and then butt weld the main tube.

 

[mr.n]

Butt welding an axle to short it is Booty fab.


A butt weld is always a bad idea. With all the steps you guys like to try to make it work well, have you ever looked at how easy it is to just remove the casting from the tube?
I can't find the link, but if you search it's been listed several time.

 

[bmc69]

LOL..'booty fab' eh? Heck..I guess a lot of what we do in our 5500 sf machine shop would qualify as booty fab then. Good thing our welders are 'booty fab' certified too.;D Having narrowed so many all the different ways ya can..our booty fab approach has turned out to work the best for us in terms of time requierd for results achieved. We use the same technique for narrowing D60 rears too..gasp!

I'm not knocking the removal of the castings and cutting down the tube end as a good way to go, however..because it is.

 

[Bronco73]

i may not have time but i hope to try this and if i don't get to it i am not sure if i will haul a full size d44 with me to fl or not. where i'm at now i know enough people to get this done, machine shop and all.

 

[smoked77]

Use a WAH. Well worth the money once you have one!