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Need assistance with RS9000 part numbers

Johnnyb

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Months ago I posted about getting RS9000s which were 30 years old warrantied. Yes, I took some sh**, but guess what? I located the receipt and the vendor is willing to honor the warranty!
Problem is, the old part numbers stamped onto the shocks don't cross reference. I even called rancho and they had no idea.
My setup is pretty basic, wild horses shock hoops with dual shocks up front and stock mounts in back. 2.5 inch wild horses lift.
Sitting on a level surface, I measure 21 and 3/4 center to center for the fronts and 19 for the backs. They are all eye bolt mounts.
Can somebody with a similar setup suggest the right current part numbers to order?
Much appreciated,
JB
 

Broncobowsher

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Jun 4, 2002
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Normally I would be giving someone grief for going with such an old school shock, but in this case I am calling it a win! Getting a 30 year old shock warrantied is impressive.

Right now all my books are boxed up getting ready for a move. So I can't give you numbers. I'm guessing you have old ones to the point they only have the 5 settings on them instead of the newer 9 settings. That is probably why they can't cross reference them. My books don't go back that far. I want to say the 9-setting version came out in about '97 going off memory of useless trivia.

The last I checked there were shocks listed for stock height and 3" lift. I am pretty sure the 3" will work all the way down to stock height from back when I installed a set (back in the 90s as well). Pretty sure I had the shocks installed before the lift, with plans for the lift.
 

toddz69

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I still have a '93 Rancho catalog, which might be of some help. Post up the numbers from your old shocks and let's see what we can do.

Todd Z.
 

DirtDonk

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Quite often, the Rancho part numbers (which were made by Monroe/Tenneco at the time) were just internal part numbers.
But just as often if you flip the shock around to the other side, there might be an actual part number such as 9008, 9018, etc.
So definitely look around if you didn’t already.
 

Matt@Wildhorses

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JB, Normally we like to take the ride height measurements and place it between the extended and compressed lengths. From what Rancho offers now, at least as far as we stock, for the front, maybe the RS999010 26"-16" and RS999116 for the rear 24"-15". The Rancho XL shocks do have a large body, so if you plan on running duals in the front, right next to each other, they may now interfere with each other. If you have one in front of the coil, and one behind, there should be no issue. At least to give you some measurements to go by, and food for thought.

Matt
 
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Johnnyb

Johnnyb

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JB, Normally we like to take the ride height measurements and place it between the extended and compressed lengths. From what Rancho offers now, at least as far as we stock, for the front, maybe the RS999010 26"-16" and RS999116 for the rear 24"-15". The Rancho XL shocks do have a large body, so if you plan on running duals in the front, right next to each other, they may now interfere with each other. If you have one in front of the coil, and one behind, there should be no issue. At least to give you some measurements to go by, and food for thought.

Matt
I have dual shock hoops with one in front and one in back. That's just the information, thanks Matt!
I got bombed at work today, I will post the old part numbers when I get out to the shop just for a reference.
 

Broncobowsher

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My go to method of shopping by length...

Fronts. Measure center to center (at ride height) and note that number. Next measure frame to center bump stop (to account for squish). Subtract the gap from the height. This is the maximum collapsed length you can use so the bumpstop is the limiting factor and not the shock. The ratio created by the pivot gives a touch extra buffer for the rear of axle mounted shock. You need to add a touch more fudge factor for a front of axle mounted shock (that has more travel than the axle sees due to the swing of the radius arm)

Rears have a lot more fudge factor in them. Same for measuring from the middle of the bumpstop to the axle. But now it takes 2 tape measures. You use one set to that gap and put it on the lower shock bolt, pointing straight up. Keeping it pointing straight up while crawling around under there is the biggest source of major error. Next measure from the top shock mount to the tip of the tape measure hanging out in space. This is where you have to keep it pointing up or you can make it whatever number you want. But this gives a good approximation of the rear maximum collapsed length.

Jacking by the frame and letting the axle hang gives a good indication of extended length. Shocks can generally accept being pulled to full extension by the suspension. Very common for production vehicles to limit down travel that way. That is why you have to jack the axle up to install the shocks. So not worried if the extended length comes up a little short. But never let the shock be the bumpstop on compression, that kills them.
 
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Johnnyb

Johnnyb

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Thanks for all the great advice and part numbers. I just wanted to let everybody know that the store came through and warrantied my shocks. I got just over $960 worth of RS9000s brand new, because they warrantied my 30-year-old purchase.
 

DirtDonk

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That’s fantastic news! Congratulations and I hope the new ones are a perfect fit for you. Are you running duals front and back?
Have you already chosen the new part numbers and are in possession of them?
 
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Johnnyb

Johnnyb

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Yes, Dirt, I measured but ended up using the part numbers suggested by Matt, because they were the right ones (travel).
I have them in hand.
I have duals up front, and just one in back.

THX
JB
 
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