Need Chevy Disc Brake Info**fast**

[blazinchuck]

Ok, heres the problem. I was getting ready to install the lock-right in the front. so when I pulled the drums off, I noticed the brakes were shot!. I have been collecting parts lately for the swap to GM disc, but still need inner/outer bearings and brake hoses to complete the swap.
Either I go and get new shoes and turn the drums or finish getting those items for disc brakes. I'm worried the disc wont stop as good with my stock MC. I getting this ready for a trip to NC's Uhwarrie and I just want good brakes.
The disc parts might cost $100 ver.$60 for the drum stuff. Which should I go with? Should I get a better bolt-right-in MC to help w/disc...if so I need to know the best MC that will bolt right in. Sorry this is long, just need help now-time is wasteing.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Don’t worry about the master cylinder. It will work fine. Maybe a different one will work better, maybe not. But it will work. I have done 2 of them this way. Only had a problem with one, but that wasn’t related to disk brakes. Rust bore tore up the seals inside when bleeding (stroked master cylinder into rusty area). Go disk brakes!

 

[blazinchuck]

I have decided to go disc. I heard of removing the residual valve is a great upgrade for the stock MC...is this true and where is this valve? ?:?

 

[74BroncoCO]

It might work pretty good, but when you're on the rocks, you need braking instantly, pumping isn't an option. When I did my swap My MC wasn't up to the task, so I replaced with the F-250 one ($20 at the Zone), but it seems too much. It would stop good, but I only had a little play between just slowing and stopping. I think the cure is the MCPV-1 from classic Performance. A completely adjustable MC for a reasonable $140 (IMO). That will be an upgrade I want to do soon for my Disc/Disc setup.

I hope you get something figured out!!

Oh and go discs for SURE!

J.D.

 

[blazinchuck]

That all sounds good but I've got just enough to get the items mention already...cant do another $140 for anything. I would probably just do a hydro set up 1st, but I dont have time to figure all that stuff out either- let alone get more hoses.

 

[blazinchuck]

It might work pretty good, but when you're on the rocks, you need braking instantly, pumping isn't an option. When I did my swap My MC wasn't up to the task, so I replaced with the F-250 one ($20 at the Zone), J.D.

what year f250 and part # should I ask for?

 

[blazinchuck]

also thanks for everyone fast responce so far !!!

 

[4xfloored]

The Residual Valve is located just on the outside of your M/C ...
1.Take off your front brake line where it connects to the M/C
2. There is a small BRASS looking piece with a tiny hole in it
3. you need to find a very small metal screw , thread it into the brass hole.
4. get some pliers and pull / wiggle it out...
Thats it , just make sure your brakes are bled well
Milo

 

[blazinchuck]

Thats just what I'm looking for...The MC is fairly new and I heard that helps alot.Milo, Is your done that way?If so what kind of braking can I expect?,Thanx,Chuck

 

[72Sport]

The brake line for the front brakes connects to the rear of the master cylinder, closest to the firewall. The rear brakes connect to the front of the master cylinder. Just thought I would add that just incase you didn't trace out the lines.

The residual pressure valve is held in by the brass piece. Remove the little valve and reinstall the brass seat. The brake line seals against the brass insert so be careful and don't damage the inside surface or the tapered part of the seat.

 

[blazinchuck]

Thanks..that is most helpful. I think I'll keep the old MC and remove that valve and do the disc set up. Hope it works out OK,Thanks again,Chuck

 

[SaddleUp]

Thanks..that is most helpful. I think I'll keep the old MC and remove that valve and do the disc set up. Hope it works out OK,Thanks again,Chuck

I wouldn't do this except in a time crunch and then I would only consider it a temporary solution that isn't to be trusted. The calipers have different volume requirements than the wheel cylinders and the corresponding master cylinders are designed to match those requirements. While it may work to use the drum/drum master cylinder it will be stretched to it's limits which IMO is pretty foolish when new master cylinders only cost about $15. I wish I could recall what master cylinder I ended up using for that setup. I'm thinking it was a 1 1/16" bore 78 F250 camper special one.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

I was in the exact same situation as you about a year ago. I needed the MC fast. I got mine bolted back together with the stock MC and it took the 2nd pump to get a firm pedal.

I slapped in a MC from a 77 F250 w/ dual piston Calipers. That's a 1 1/4" bore MC and it will have a short pedal stroke and a firm pedal. It probably takes 2X the pedal effort the old drums did. With manual brakes I could bring it to a fast stop, but my wife couldn't. I think if you search you'll find the Mustang MC w/ a 1 1/8" bore is the better choice. I'm still running my "camper special" MC though

 

[blazinchuck]

Does any of these MC require a differant push rod or do I use my old one? Or do they come with a new one...Reason I ask, I thought when I replace the factory one-the push rod snapped in into the back and couldn't be removed? I just dont remember...%)
I know I have looked for one of these"camper specials" before with no luck finding it. So far I been told 1-1/16 & 1-1/4...with disc/drum or dual piston disc/drum..which should I use? I was going to get this stuff today ...

 

[Cooter_76]

You use your old push rod. I'm not sure what the bore is on my MC, but I asked for one for a '76 F-250 with dual-piston calipers. The pedal is FIRM.
This is a good time to inspect & replace the lines going from the MC to the H-block if you have the original rubber lines. Mine were cracked and rusty!

Good Luck!

 

[74BroncoCO]

I had the 1-1/4" Bore Camper Special MC and it was TOO stiff as NeverSatisfied explained. Tyring to hold your bronco on a steep hill with a stiff pedal causes leg fatigue very fast! I would go with a 1-1/8" bore. Your pushrod, if still in good condition, should work fine. Don't take any shortcuts, these are your brakes!!

J.D.

 

[blazinchuck]

I had the 1-1/4" Bore Camper Special MC and it was TOO stiff as NeverSatisfied explained. Tyring to hold your bronco on a steep hill with a stiff pedal causes leg fatigue very fast! I would go with a 1-1/8" bore. Your pushrod, if still in good condition, should work fine. Don't take any shortcuts, these are your brakes!!

J.D.

All the lines are new except the rubber and short hard line going to the old drums, they will go away when I put the new disc brake hose on. You said FIRM peddle, does that mean its harder to push?

 

[BG's 68 Bronco]

I think you're better off to find a master cylinder that is disk/drum 1 1/8" bore , as I believe this is what your calipers were designed for.

 

[Cooter_76]

All the lines are new except the rubber and short hard line going to the old drums, they will go away when I put the new disc brake hose on. You said FIRM peddle, does that mean its harder to push?

Yes, the pedal is harder to push and has less travel than the old drum/drum setup. Sure is nice to stop in a straight line though!;D

It's not too bad for me, but I'm only stopping 31" tires and I haven't taken it off road since I converted.

 

[SaddleUp]

Does any of these MC require a differant push rod or do I use my old one? Or do they come with a new one...Reason I ask, I thought when I replace the factory one-the push rod snapped in into the back and couldn't be removed? I just dont remember...%)
I know I have looked for one of these"camper specials" before with no luck finding it. So far I been told 1-1/16 & 1-1/4...with disc/drum or dual piston disc/drum..which should I use? I was going to get this stuff today ...

Don't read too much into what I said on the bore size. I know it was either 1 1/16 or 1 1/8. It was probably actually the later. It was not the 1 1/4" though. The larger bore makes it harder to apply the brakes so you don't want that.

BTW, I had them pull out 2 or 3 that were for the same year and measured the bore to make sure it was right.