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Need pics of 33x12.50's on 15x10 wheels/uncut front fenders

crab

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 23, 2004
Messages
2,268
Getting ready to freshen up the ride on my 77. Currently sitting on 33x10.50s on 15x8 wheels. I'm assuming it has a wore out 2.5" inch suspension lift. Not sure if they ever came with progressive rate coils? Also looks like a taller track bar bracket? The front fenders have been nibbled to clear the 33's which I may replace since the driver side is not original and the lines suck.
My goal is to clear 33 x 12 50s on 15x10 wheels with minimal lift and uncut front fenders with out rubbing. Don't want to go with dual shocks but would like to go with the F150 front towers to gain a little more travel. It will be 99% street with the occasional run down the beach which will require a little suspension travel bouncing through the rough spots. Leaning towards Wild Horses http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produc...stein-Shocks-2in/Bronco_Suspension_System_2in in either the 2.5" with 1" body or the 3.5" and no body.
 

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broncobsession

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 12, 2001
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4,049
The 2.5" lofts I have heard good things about are WH, Duff, and Deaver (through JBG). I have all 3 but haven't installed the Deavers. The other two seem equal.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,364
Stock tracbkar bracket for a '76 and a '77 Bronco. They were bigger than the earlier ones.
Do you still have the stock Inverted-Y steering linkage?

Why go to 10's? I suppose you could get lucky, but usually the wider wheel (especially given the same offset) will rub the front fenders even more. That's because the tire and wheel now travel in a wider arc when steering.
You usually clear the radius arms better, but not the uncut fenders. Maybe wait for the new fenders, until after you get the wheels? Might help you decide whether to keep the ones that are already trimmed or not.

The existing coils sure looks beefy! I wonder if they are actually variable rate types, or if they've simply sagged?
Hard to say. Can you measure between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame rail to verify what you have now? Anything over 7" is your approximate lift.

Paul
 
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crab

crab

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 23, 2004
Messages
2,268
I wondered about the track bar bracket. I don't remember all of my other bronco's dropping that low, and a buddies '76 looked exactly the same. Thanks for clearing that up.
The PO got rid of the inverted "Y" and converted already. I had PSC rebuild the PS box and I converted the old pump with a new Saginaw kit from Toms.
It measures just a touch under 8" from top of tube to bottom of frame rail. I just dug through all of the receipts that came with the bronco (I bought it a little over a year ago) and found part of my answer. The "Moog cargo coils" probably gave 1.5" when new and settled to 1". The rear appears to be the stock 5 leafs with and add-a-leaf. There is also a 3/4" block under the spring pack.
I've always gone with 10" wide wheels with 12.5 tires, for air down purpose on the beach which I typically run around 4-5lbs. I've seen a lot of guys run 8" wheels on 12.5 tires, but I don't like how bulged the sidewalls are. Kinda scares me......
Here's a cool older pic of receipt from Bronco Specialties back in the day. I also have old receipts from Duff for interior seat covers that are now completely rotted away. Kind of cool to see the history from the original owner....
 

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DirtDonk

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Messages
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I wondered about the track bar bracket. I don't remember all of my other bronco's dropping that low, and a buddies '76 looked exactly the same. Thanks for clearing that up.

Went along with the changeover to the Y steering from the T steering.
Worked well with it, but when changing over to the earlier (and stronger by the way) T-style, there are some things you need to be aware of.

The PO got rid of the inverted "Y" and converted already.

Just so you know, that creates the first problem. A mismatch between the angle of the draglink and the angle of the trackbar. They should be perfectly parallel to each other when they're the same length like they would be stock.
Lifting the truck's suspension aggravates this existing issue.

It measures just a touch under 8" from top of tube to bottom of frame rail. I just dug through all of the receipts that came with the bronco (I bought it a little over a year ago) and found part of my answer. The "Moog cargo coils" probably gave 1.5" when new and settled to 1". The rear appears to be the stock 5 leafs with and add-a-leaf. There is also a 3/4" block under the spring pack.

That makes sense. The angles look steeper than desirable, but not really that bad, like they would have been with more lift.
I used Cargo Coils at one point and loved the way it worked out with just that slight lift over stock, and a better than stock ride.

I've always gone with 10" wide wheels with 12.5 tires, for air down purpose on the beach which I typically run around 4-5lbs. I've seen a lot of guys run 8" wheels on 12.5 tires, but I don't like how bulged the sidewalls are. Kinda scares me......

It's mostly a perception, so don't be skeered of it. The sidewalls do not actually bulge out. With the narrower wheel the bead is simply pulled in farther, which gives the sidewall a more rounded appearance. But it's actually virtually the same width.
And in fact, the narrower wheels are better at one aspect of airing down. The wider wheels will allow the tire to spread more (very good in the sand, as you probably figured), but the narrower wheels will retain the tire's bead better when aired down that low.

Also to alleviate some more of the stress of a narrower wheel, next time you're near a similar sized tire at a shop or wherever, put a tape measure in the inside bead to bead. I bet you find that the tire's natural shape has the bead at roughly 7" wide. Certainly not likely to overstress a tire by putting it on an 8" wheel then.
I hear you on the sand thing though. If you've already had good experiences with it (and have never peeled a tire off the wheel!) then I'd stick with what you know works. But don't fear airing down a 12.50 on an 8" wheel. We use that criteria in the more rocky terrain to protect the rim edge and to better retain the tires from literally falling off the wheel.

For sticking with 10" wheels then, I would still try to keep them as tucked in as possible, by finding wheels with the most backspacing.
Or better yet, if you have other Bronco or old CJ Jeep buddy's in your area, find one with the tire and wheel combo you like and throw one on the front to see what rubs.

Here's a cool older pic of receipt from Bronco Specialties back in the day. I also have old receipts from Duff for interior seat covers that are now completely rotted away. Kind of cool to see the history from the original owner...

Very cool. Even shows that they did the fender trimming.
Is that '77 or '97 on the receipt? If '77, that's cool too because I didn't even know they'd been in business that long.

Paul
 
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crab

crab

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 23, 2004
Messages
2,268
Decided to go with the 15x8 mags and 33x12.50 toyo m/t’s. FYI .....1/4” wheel spacers give you about 3/16” clearance on the ‘76-77 tie rods. Here is how it sits with Wikd Horses 2.5” lift and wore out stock body mounts (no body lift). Very pleased with how it turned out.
 

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