New 4r70w error code

[BruiserOutdoors]

Well we attempted to fire up the new 347 stroker \ 4r70w (Pro Flo 4 and quick 4 controller) build yesterday. We fought firing order and misfires. Engine probably has 1 minute of run time now. Zero shifts while it has been running, yet. Trans took 8 quarts before start-up and I was advised by the builder to get a full 14-16 quarts in the trans before driving it. Afterwards, I added 2 more quarts for a total of 10 so far. Thought I noticed a black spec or two on the dipstick.

There were no error codes that I noticed yesterday. I worked on the NSS and backup lamp wiring tonight and noticed an error code on the Quick 4 controller. "EPC (PCS) solenoid circuit open". I thought oh I must have wired something wrong, let me disconnect everything I did. So I did and no change.

I'm not sure where to go from here. I am hoping it's just a wiring issue but reading online starts to worry me in a hurry. Any suggestions? Anybody else run into this?

 

[nvrstuk]

Did you look on US Shifts website for their "error code" section? It's in their paper manual also.

I can't remember what it is but I"ll bet they have it posted.

Keep us posted!

BTW, don't put it in gear and move the rig w/o all the oil in it.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

Did you look on US Shifts website for their "error code" section? It's in their paper manual also.

I can't remember what it is but I"ll bet they have it posted.

Keep us posted!

BTW, don't put it in gear and move the rig w/o all the oil in it.

This error code was not found on their website troubleshoot section. I plan to call tomorrow. The written instructions are short and vague. It says to check the measured solenoid resistance through the controller, which I did but not sure what I am looking at. Results are SSA: 25.3, SSB: 24.6 and TCC: 12.5.

Can I shift it on a jack without all 14-16 quarts ? I'm not sure how else to stuff that many quarts in without running thru the gears somehow. Obviously it makes sense to not put any load on it without all the fluid.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

A video I saw online mentioned not to put 12v straight to the solenoid. I did hook up the "12V in run" White wire for the backup lamps. Hoping I didn't somehow fry the solenoid...

 

[rocknhorse76]

The EPC fault is more than likely caused by a loose pin in the “solenoids” plug at the controller. Pull that plug out and make sure all of the pins are fully seated in it. Also make sure the big roundish plug is fully seated in the trans. Keep going on the NSS wiring as well. It has nothing to do with the EPC fault. Cycle the key a few times after that and I bet the fault clears.

You’re also getting ahead of yourself on the whole no shifting thing. The engine needs to run for more than a minute to get all of fluid in and all of the air out of the trans and coolers/lines. Keep filling it with the engine running until you see fluid starting to show on the dipstick. Once you see a little fluid, run the shifter through all of the gears a few times, pausing for a couple seconds in each position. That will allow fluid into all of the cavities in the valve body and pistons. Fill it up until the fluid is about 3/4 of the way up the stick if the fluid is still fairly cool. Once it’s hot, check it again and top it off until it’s at the top of the stick. Do all of this with the tires on the ground and your foot on the brake so you’re putting a little load on the torque converter. Also, make sure the transfer case is in 2 high. I’ll bet that it will shift great after all of that!

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

The EPC fault is more than likely caused by a loose pin in the “solenoids” plug at the controller. Pull that plug out and make sure all of the pins are fully seated in it. Also make sure the big roundish plug is fully seated in the trans. Keep going on the NSS wiring as well. It has nothing to do with the EPC fault. Cycle the key a few times after that and I bet the fault clears.

You’re also getting ahead of yourself on the whole no shifting thing. The engine needs to run for more than a minute to get all of fluid in and all of the air out of the trans and coolers/lines. Keep filling it with the engine running until you see fluid starting to show on the dipstick. Once you see a little fluid, run the shifter through all of the gears a few times, pausing for a couple seconds in each position. That will allow fluid into all of the cavities in the valve body and pistons. Fill it up until the fluid is about 3/4 of the way up the stick if the fluid is still fairly cool. Once it’s hot, check it again and top it off until it’s at the top of the stick. Do all of this with the tires on the ground and your foot on the brake so you’re putting a little load on the torque converter. Also, make sure the transfer case is in 2 high. I’ll bet that it will shift great after all of that!

The harness looked fine on both ends but I will investigate more this evening. I unplugged it multiple times and no change.

I called Kevin at US Shift, he said its either the US shift harness wire (white EPC wire), the solenoid itself, or the internal harness connecting the solenoids.

 

[nvrstuk]

What Tim said about getting it running is dead on... gotta move some fluid around.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

what and how can I test the us shift wiring harness and the EPC solenoid without dropping the pan? Really would like to avoid dropping the pan if I can.

 

[Yeller]

Welcome to the fun of getting hand built stuff up and running. There is always something that causes heartburn. Get it running, get everything full, then worry about what isn’t working. I get it can be frustrating, but until you know for sure don’t worry about it. Keep moving forward, make sure nothing leaks and there aren’t other surprises, sometimes they just work themselves out more than once I’ve gone through and unplugged every connector and plugged them back in and things start working. You been at this a long time and being meticulous, get it running, confirm there aren’t other issues, then tackle the error code. If you have this pull the pan you have to pull it but don’t pull it chasing an issue and then find something else that would have been easy to do at the same time and now it is not. Many of us here have built a lot of stuff from scratch and used parts and pieces from everything imaginable, there will be some pains, don’t panic about an issue until it proves to be an issue. Finish everything you can until you can’t move on due to an issue.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

Welcome to the fun of getting hand built stuff up and running. There is always something that causes heartburn. Get it running, get everything full, then worry about what isn’t working. I get it can be frustrating, but until you know for sure don’t worry about it. Keep moving forward, make sure nothing leaks and there aren’t other surprises, sometimes they just work themselves out more than once I’ve gone through and unplugged every connector and plugged them back in and things start working. You been at this a long time and being meticulous, get it running, confirm there aren’t other issues, then tackle the error code. If you have this pull the pan you have to pull it but don’t pull it chasing an issue and then find something else that would have been easy to do at the same time and now it is not. Many of us here have built a lot of stuff from scratch and used parts and pieces from everything imaginable, there will be some pains, don’t panic about an issue until it proves to be an issue. Finish everything you can until you can’t move on due to an issue.

Any harm getting the engine started and fixed first? Then tackle the error? The trans builder has mentioned how easy it can be to burn it up if incorrectly wired/tuned.

 

[Yeller]

Sitting in your garage, absolutely not as long as it is full of fluid. Driving can be a different thing sitting still running it through the gears, no way to harm anything. Get it running, can’t tell you how many times I’ve solved issues getting other things up and going. I would even go so far as to jack it up and run it through the gears with light brake pressure, with no load it will not hurt anything and be helpful diagnosing. I would have it on stands anyway so you can fill and bleed the steering, bleed the brakes ect. Your getting hung up on an issue that may or may not be a big deal, get everything else done so you can track it down without 50 other loose ends.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

well...


I dropped the pan and to my surprise it was an easy fix. 23ish minutes to gather the tools, carefully remove the pan and fix the issue. Since it was "low" on fluid, there wasn't a big mess like I was expecting, and I was able to drop the pan slowly and only get a few drops on my arms.

Issue: Hardwire solenoid unit wasn't securely fastened to the EPC solenoid. Unclipped at the solenoid and snapped it tight. Turned on the computer and no error! Must have disconnected a little during the rather harsh initial startup session (?)

Thanks everybody. See you at the Roundup!

 

[nvrstuk]

Wooooohooo! EZ fix!

Hope to see ya there!

 

[rocknhorse76]

Glad you got it fixed and see you at the Roundup!

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

Finally put a test run on the bronco. Around the block was all... open headers until tomorrow.


While getting any wheel speed, the display on the Quick 4 goes nuts. the display shifts the data left/right and up/down. It also goes thru different layouts of data display and does not stay consistent.

Note: The display looks and functions fine when the key is on (not running) or when just idling in park. This issue only seems to arise when driving the bronco and the speedo is triggered.

Kevin @ US Shift said he has never heard of this issue. The date of the controller (dec 2023) was in the timeframe they were having display issues (blank displays) so he thought it was a faulty display. After more discussion and realizing its only when the bronco is moving, we are thinking its something else.

Any suggestions? I am going to be checking voltage at the controller and removing the TSS harness to see if that makes any difference.


PHOTOS: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/njfn...ey=7515qsdaz0e29xirmzjtgqjxo&st=id5x8ikw&dl=0

 

[nvrstuk]

That's weird- totally.

Never seen or heard of that.

My question is- does it do it on "manual mode" also?

It's like the controller isn't making a "perfect connection"- like a grd is bad or the shift position sensor isn't locked into a gear and it is searching for what gear or temp or ??? to display.

I have followed 4r & 6r forums since I installed my 4r back in 2010- new to me too.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

That's weird- totally.

Never seen or heard of that.

My question is- does it do it on "manual mode" also?

It's like the controller isn't making a "perfect connection"- like a grd is bad or the shift position sensor isn't locked into a gear and it is searching for what gear or temp or ??? to display.

I have followed 4r & 6r forums since I installed my 4r back in 2010- new to me too.

How do I put it in "manual mode"? Like 2nd and 1st gear? Yes I believe it did.



If I cant solve it, its getting shipped back AFTER the roundup. I was about to ship it tomorrow once I drop it off at exhaust but dont want to risk the process...

 

[nvrstuk]

If you buy another & they ship you a new one you should have it in 4-5 days and then when they receive your old one you get credit.

Is it warranteed?

If I had a spare 4r controller I'd ring it.

I have an extra 6r80 one but they obviously don't swap

 

[nvrstuk]

How do I put it in "manual mode"? Like 2nd and 1st gear? Yes I believe it did.



If I cant solve it, its getting shipped back AFTER the roundup. I was about to ship it tomorrow once I drop it off at exhaust but dont want to risk the process...

You need to wire in a dbl throw rocker switch or paddle switches and make the software changes when setting up all the parameters on your controller (like tire size, etc, etc).

Super simple, check their instructions on your hardcopy paperwork or the setup on line.

Good luck.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

If you buy another & they ship you a new one you should have it in 4-5 days and then when they receive your old one you get credit.

Is it warranteed?

If I had a spare 4r controller I'd ring it.

I have an extra 6r80 one but they obviously don't swap

I have a quick 6 sitting here but like you said, no help.

Kevin wanted me to send mine back and then have it repaired. No new unit but seemed 'warranteed' ........but I had to pay shipping...