New engine startup

[70EB]

OK. I seem to be getting close to the point in my project that I will start her up for the first time. Here is the situation. I have a Ford 351W crate motor in that I put in there about 2 1/2 years ago (military deployments, moving and money have been my delays). I want to start it correctly. I plan to buy/borrow an oil pump priming tool that goes in the distributor hole and run to build up oil pressure.

Should I be concerned about any surface rust that might have occured internally from it sitting so long? It has been kept inside this whole time.

Suggestions please. I don't want to ruin a brand new crate engine just because it sat for a while and I did something stupid. Thanks

 

[67ster]

I can understand your concern with rust , I think most the surfaces should have a coat of oil on them used during assembly at the factory . My biggest concern would be the cylinder walls rusting from condensation. Pop the plugs out of that puppy and take a look see.

 

[broncnaz]

You shouldn't have a rust problem if the engine was lubed properly when assembled and the humidity is not to high there. I would defintely prime the engine first and possibly pull the plugs and spray some penetrating oil in just to make sure the rings havent rusted a little if you think it has rusted I would also let the penetrating oil set over night if you can wait that long.

I guess I left this out after spraying the penetrating oil in and letting it loosen up any possible rust, dust, ect. pour a little motor oil in each cylinder then turn the engine by hand if there is any rust in there it should wash most of it out even if it doesnt its still in there one way or the other if you can get some of it out the better off you'll be but the only way to be sure is to tear the engine back down

 

[RogerCB]

Since the motor's fresh, and sitting for so long, I'd prime the pump 'til you have oil pressure, turn the motor over by hand.....I'm betting it'll feel smooth, free, and perfectly normal. I for sure wouldn't spray any crap in fresh cyl's. Anything but motor oil insulates the rings from seating, hell even too much oil during assy. inhibits break-in.

 

[classic4x4s]

I have a similar situation, I bought a 351W that is a crate engine...never installed...never cranked, but it has set in this guys shop for about 5 years. And in Louisiana the humidity is high. I pulled the oil pan and from what I can see there is a little, very little surface rust. I'm going to prime it, pour oil everywhere I can get to and hope for the best.

 

[77TexasBronc]

Pull the plugs and see what the cylinder walls look like. I bet there isnt a bit of rust in there since your in a low humidity area. If the walls are clean then prime the oil pump as you mentioned and your good to go. let us know what you find and lets see some photos

 

[Unregistered]

once you do get it started,run it at 1000-1100 rpm for about 1/2 hr. to get the cam lubed properly at start up.This is when most damage is done to new cams.

 

[74bronc]

you are going to want to run it up alot higher than 1000-1100 RPM's. That is basically idle and that is what will kill the cam. I don't let my motors drop below 1700 for the first half hour and during that 1/2 hour, I vary the RPM's 1800-2500. Never had a cam break-in issue.

More than you ever wanted to know about engine break-in (pay particular attention to the cranecams article):

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://home.pacbell.net/bigiron/Articles/break-in.html

http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm

http://www.stealth316.com/2-breakin.htm

 

[76Broncofromhell]

I keep mine from 1800-2500 transitioning between the two continuously. My rings usually seat within the first 30 or so miles ( I mean there is a ton less friction after that). Like those before me, I've never had a cam-break-in issue