New radiator advice

[mduenas]

I’m looking to get a new radiator. I have no idea what mine is, or when it is from. But, I believe I need a new one, this is why I think it:

I had cooling issues before on a different motor, same radiator. So I flushed the radiator flushed multiple times, and red silicone came out, P.O. siliconed the thermostat on, and the silicone got into the cooling system then radiator. I flushed till I didn’t see any more red. Put it back on and it was better. But not 100%

I now have the same radiator on a new rebuild of a 1974 302. I had a 351w before. It is now is a 700R4 automatic transmission, I have ac and fitech. Also I have a shroud, a mechanical fan and a new water pump. On hot days and traffic I seem to run between 230-235. That seems too warm for me, I have a 186 thermostat. I’d really like to see it around 215-220. Or lower ideally.

Should I be looking at a brass and copper, or go a with aluminum radiator? (I believe that is what in there now)

 

[Bartonatl]

I just replaced my old copper one with an aluminum. I gotnit off amazon for $150 ish. Triple pass with tranny cooler hook up. im Running much cooler now.

 

[bronco italiano]

Unless you can find a copper brass tractor core, go with aluminum and the sacrificial anode. If you need sure reliability I think WH sells the fancy USA made alum radiator (Ron Davis?) and I would go with that. Or you could get the O'Reilly's lifetime, but plan on it failing every year though.
BI

 

[sykanr0ng]

Is your Bronco used off-road?

For a street only Bronco aluminum is okay, but too prone to metal fatigue from the core support flexing when off-road to last.

Buy a cheap aluminum radiator if you buy one, they are hard to repair compared to copper/brass and should be thought of as disposable; put it in the recycling and get another cheap one. Repeat as needed.

I like the anode idea, but for a warning device; check it regularly along with everything else you check under the hood and if there is corrosion on it there is a problem to fix.

 

[DirtDonk]

I know you said you had the same issue in another vehicle, but have you verified that for sure you are running at the temps your gauge is indicating? Normally they're just off by 10 or maybe 15 degrees, but it's not unheard of for a gauge to read 30 degrees off either.

And even though a new engine can run hot, and even though an automatic trans puts more heat into the mix if it's plumbed into the radiator, they should not raise the temps that much.

Other things to verify too, are ignition timing. Too retarded for your setup can really add temps to the mix.

Not trying to talk you out of a new radiator completely. Just wanting to make sure it's needed and you're not seeing a result of some other issue.
After all, even a stock replacement radiator should cool your engine just fine.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[SteveL]

I'm not a fan of the aluminum. I prefer the durability and less maintenance of the copper/brass radiators. If you spend the money on a good one like bc sells it will last longer and run cooler than the aluminum. Also avoid the 4-core swaps. They tend to start springing leaks after about a year.

 

[DirtDonk]

I like 'em both. But I tend to lean towards the old copper/brass models myself. I almost went with aluminum on the '68, but decided to go with our Triple-Pass version.
The BC model Steve mentions is a good unit and has a good reputation. It's heavier than most of the ones out there these days too, which might indicate more material strength. At least it feels that way to me.

Our Triple-Pass (or Triple Bypass, as I prefer to call it;D) was also noticeably heavier than all the others I have weighed. Still has staggered 4-row core, but guessing it's a more robust one.
And also is obviously manufactured with much more care than a typical bargain radiator as well. Extremely clean and tidy looking, with perfect paint. Which is kind of a big deal these days to me.
Not that a radiator needs better looking paint to cool better, but it sure looks like someone cared about how it was all put together and gives you a better warm-n-fuzzy when you're installing it in your adventure rig.
If you're trying to lighten up your EB, which is not necessarily a bad thing, this is one area you can do it in easily. But I'd be careful of compromising reliability for a few pounds of weight. And not all aluminum radiators are actually lighter than a copper one. I have an aluminum one that is actually a couple of pounds heavier than one of the lighter copper ones. Interesting stuff.

The one downside to my new one as far as I can tell is that I'm going to have to make a partial radiator cover for the winter. On the cooler days the engine barely gets up to operating temperatures with it!%)
But that's not a problem I'd be too upset about. Not with most Early Broncos anyway!

Paul

 

[Rustytruck]

If yours is a heavily offroad rig use a brass/copper radiator they can be fixed in the field.

 

[mduenas]

Is your Bronco used off-road?

For a street only Bronco aluminum is okay, but too prone to metal fatigue from the core support flexing when off-road to last.

Buy a cheap aluminum radiator if you buy one, they are hard to repair compared to copper/brass and should be thought of as disposable; put it in the recycling and get another cheap one. Repeat as needed.

I like the anode idea, but for a warning device; check it regularly along with everything else you check under the hood and if there is corrosion on it there is a problem to fix.

I barely off Road, maybe a few times a year. Sit in traffic most of the time :/

 

[mduenas]

I know you said you had the same issue in another vehicle, but have you verified that for sure you are running at the temps your gauge is indicating? Normally they're just off by 10 or maybe 15 degrees, but it's not unheard of for a gauge to read 30 degrees off either.

And even though a new engine can run hot, and even though an automatic trans puts more heat into the mix if it's plumbed into the radiator, they should not raise the temps that much.

Other things to verify too, are ignition timing. Too retarded for your setup can really add temps to the mix.

Not trying to talk you out of a new radiator completely. Just wanting to make sure it's needed and you're not seeing a result of some other issue.
After all, even a stock replacement radiator should cool your engine just fine.

Good luck.

Paul

I have all new gauges with new sensors and I’ve done a heat gun and it all read pretty accurately. I had a second shoo check my timing after I checked, and it was good. That’s what led me to believe it was the radiator.

Brass and copper seems so expensive compared to aluminum, but if they will keep my rig cooler than that’s what I need to do. Will the BC one mount same as stock or is it modified? I’m assjmjng I can use my same shroud?

 

[SteveL]

Bc radiator fits the stock mounts just has better internals. Not sure if they have a tranny cooler. Way back when I bought mine they only had their standard 3-core with no cooler. It keeps the 351w cooler than the 4-core did without the leaks. That's in LA traffic.

 

[mduenas]

This looks identical to my current radiator, so I believe the is what is in the truck. I have yet to find a 3 core aluminum radiator (Besides Toms broncos, but there shipping prices are extremely high for me). Should I just replace my current with this radiator?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...adiator/433521/4459497/1974/ford/bronco?pos=0

 

[SteveL]

The bc 3-core has larger internals for better cooling. If the stock radiator isn't keeping it cool I would be hesitant to run one of the shelf from one of the cheap chain stores. Even if it has a lifetime warranty who wants to swap it out every year. Some parts you just get what you pay for.

 

[1strodeo]

Advance Auto sent me a 25% off coupon via email which was good for 48 hours and I got this radiator for about $160

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-radiator-433521/3902587-P?searchTerm=radiators

 

[Pa PITT]

FUNNY I read this just to see where radiator talk was today.
Years ago I bought one of those $102.00 radiators from FLEABAY. It was just to mount up my diesel. So mY dIESEL HAS BEEN IN PLACE ABOUT 10 YEARS ALL on the farm use So a lot is 4wheeling 99% of the time.
Mersey 10 years & It's still my radiator. Granted I only put 300 to maybe 500 miles a year. But I DO use 4x4 almost every day on about 2 & 3 trails .
I've always felt I'd be better off with a Copper radiator.
But I'll give these cheap radiators a thumbs up. Watch your mountings.

 

[WheelHorse]

The Advanced auto unit is a Spectra. I JUST installed one in my Bronco, for 174 to my door.

It looks to be a decent unit, nothing to write home about. Time will tell how it cools.

What is mother chucking me is the new ABS shroud is hitting my stock flex fan. I may have to drop the spacer from 1_3/4 to 1.5".

 

[blubuckaroo]

Since you live in SOCAL, a good radiator shop should be available. They usually can record yours.
Those shops usually have better quality new radiators too.

 

[1strodeo]

The Advanced auto unit is a Spectra. I JUST installed one in my Bronco, for 174 to my door.

It looks to be a decent unit, nothing to write home about. Time will tell how it cools.

What is mother chucking me is the new ABS shroud is hitting my stock flex fan. I may have to drop the spacer from 1_3/4 to 1.5".

where did you get the ABS shroud? will standard 302 shroud fit the Spectra?

 

[bronconut73]

Best shroud I have used so far is the JBG fiberglass model.
Very easy to modify if needed,

 

[1strodeo]

Very easy to modify if needed,

you mean like maybe shaving for 1"BL? i'm thinking I may have to do that