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Newbie help

Customtruck

New Member
Joined
May 3, 2018
Messages
6
Not sure if this is the right place to ask but here goes. 75 bronco. 5.5 lift 2” body lift. 38:5/16:5 tires. 393 V-8 5 speed. When the front raises under acceleration or lowers under braking or changing gears the bronco wants to change lanes! Track bar and steering are parallel. Any help greatly appreciated. Adam
 

rjrobin2002

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 13, 2007
Messages
2,704
Post a picture of the front axle with steering geometry. And I am guessing you have had it aligned and all the steering joints are tight?
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,420
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi make sure to get a printout or screen shot of the alignment numbers.
Most of the guys go for 4 or more degrees caster.
Toe in is the only easy adjustment. 1.5 degrees, on each side, or @ 3/16" should work.
Keep the air pressure low. You should fine tune the air pressure before the alignment. If air pressure is over 30 psi it is probably too high. Don't let them fill the tires to what the sidewall says.
Post the numbers for more answers.
Become a contributor and post pictures
Good luck
 

surfer-b

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
2,974
The biggest improvement to make when lifting a Bronco is to try and keep the drag link and trac bar Parallel to the axle, the greater the angle these 2 are the more sensitive braking, turning, and holes/dips in the road will be when it come to the handling, when the angles are steep almost any movement will cause the axle to shift.
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,702
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Could also be an axle wrap thing in the rear. Check the u-bolts for tightness. When my 72 was doing similar things to yours I had a broken U-bolt. With that much power and lift you may need a rear traction bar or bars. Check out the wh wrap trap.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Most alignment shops are only concerned about static alignment. That's not going to fix what you're describing. A good old chassis shop is what's needed.
As already posted, a straight on photo of your front axle will explain a lot about your steering geometry.
 

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
One end of the drag link and track bar is attached to the frame and the other end is attached to the axle.
When the body and frame lift or lower the frame moves in relation to the axle.
This causes the track bar and drag link to swing in an arc which moves the axle.

If the drag link and the track bar are not the same length they will not swing the same arc.
 

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Customtruck

New Member
Joined
May 3, 2018
Messages
6
/Users/adamgreen/Desktop/thumbnail-4.jpeg
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I hope this shows the pics
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,905
Hey Customtruck, welcome! And yep, those are just the kinds of pics they were asking for. Thanks.

And thanks for becoming a contributor so quickly. Hope we can help you out and get you down the road safely. Driven rigs like that myself, and it's nowhere near the fun it should be.

Someone asked already, but do you have a Detroit-type locker in the rear end? This is not always a problem, but it can be a huge part of it under the right (wrong?) circumstances.
In fact the buddy's that I drove (member Ehumaui here) was 95% the Detroit in the rear. He changed it out to a Truetrac and it was a completely different beast.

That said, your steering angles are too steep for the best street handling. And a big part of what you're experiencing. The steeper the angle, the more pronounced the side-to-side movement.
That's the big issue with a 5.5" lift in fact. The drop pitman arm and trackbar bracket are optimized for 2.5 to 3.5 inch lifts, so you really should change them some more.

The two most common "fixes" for that much lift are a trackbar riser added to the lower mount, and a TRO (tie-rod over) conversion. (edit:) Both of which you already have and the angle is still steep enough to be a problem! That's kind of surprising, but I guess that's normal. Are you sure it's only 5.5" of lift? Probably, but a measurement would be a good thing to take at this point to be sure.

What type/age/condition are the tires in? And how much air pressure?
Someone mentioned that already too, but I wanted to reiterate about playing around with things a bit.
Things to play with:
1. Tire pressures.
2. Toe-in settings.

Things to change:
1. Make the steering angles more shallow
2. Check and maybe even change the rear diff it's a locker.

For the alignment, someone mentioned 4° positive caster and that's a good start. A mildly built Bronco can get away with as little as 2.5 and still be a sweet driving truck (mine is!) but a heavily modified, big-tired rig needs more.
Settings you should shoot for are:

1. Caster of 4.5 - 8 degrees positive.
2. Camber in the .4 to .7 positive.
3. Toe-in can vary by tire/wheel/vehicle combination. Fiddle with it in your driveway and drive it to see what you eventually prefer.

The alignment tech will tell you that the camber and caster are not adjustable. They will be wrong of course, but as far as their equipment and ability is concerned, that's true. Unless you get a grumpy old fart they won't know what to do.
Just make sure you get the full printout anyway. Even if they insist you don't need the numbers, you do for later.
If they can't give you a printout, get a screen shot with your camera.

Good luck!
Oh, and those numbers I gave you are not the factory recommendations for an Early Bronco.
But then, your EB is no longer anywhere even remotely resembling stock, so old stock numbers don't always apply.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Thought of some other things, as usual.
Are you going to ever be four-wheeling this rig? Or is it a street rig?
If a street rig, is it just for going down to the lake in the summer with the family, or ice-cream on a Saturday night? Or is it going to be driven more than that?

With that much lift, you're screwed for getting off lightly with things to correct or fix. May even take some custom fabrication since most off-the-shelf items are for less lift.
The main thing in question right off the bat is a combination of caster settings and front axle pinion angle.
That's why i was asking about four-wheeling. If you will never need four-wheel drive, just pull the front driveshaft off and leave it off. By the time you get enough caster dialed in to be more stable, your front pinion is going to be pointed practically at the ground. Not literally of course, but compared to normal it's going to be steep.

A Bronco with that much lift should have longer radius arms at the very least. Then it might still need radius arm drop brackets, but that would be best avoided for other methods of caster correction.

Is this Bronco new to you? Or have you had it awhile?

When you get back to us with the actual caster readings, we may be able to make more suggestions.
In the meantime, have you measured for actual lift? That's done between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame rails. The front would be 7" stock and the rear would be 6" so anything above that is your lift.

Initial glances said that 5.5 looks legit. But the angles on the trackbar and draglink being so steep even after both raising the lower end and lowering the upper end, seem to indicate more lift.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,905
One last thing (for now) would be, once you know your settings are permanent, make sure the upper trackbar drop bracket is fully welded to the frame.
Just bolting is not enough. But I can't tell from the pic if it's been welded or not.

And while we're on the subject of the trackbar, remove it and inspect the eyes.
I've never seen any brand of adjustable trackbar that had the adjustable eye at the lower end. They're all up at the top?
Anyone know of a trackbar that has the big end adjustable and the small end solid?
Maybe I just haven't paid attention to the other brands enough. But it looked funny so I have to at least mention it.
Best to take a look at it to be sure.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,905
Oh, and you can go back and delete your posts #13 and #14 if you want, to clean up the thread a bit.
Not a requirement, but would look better I think.

Thanks

Paul
 
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