No Such Thing As A Dumb Question

[Ihavea73]

Welcome aboard!
Vibrations can be difficult. There are a lot of things rotating. You mention tires, how old are they? They will have a date of manufacture, often tires that are more then 5 or 6 years old and been setting a lot vibrate, even perfectly balanced at the tire shop. And as mentioned previously some tire and wheel combinations vibrate, they just do.

The other thoughts are are the front lockout hubs locked? Is the transfer case in 2wd? Either if of those are in play, more than likely you will have vibrations. Also has the truck been lifted? Pinion angles could be off causing a vibration, we need a little more info.

Lastly it could have a worn driveshaft, joint, centering pin on the cv joint etc that can cause vibration as well.

Welcome aboard and we will help as best we can.

Hubs are not locked and yes it is lifted. Tires appear to be from 2018

 

[jamesroney]

I have one. I am running the explorer front dress but with a 28oz engine build. Im getting a balancer from damper dudes but my question is this. If the balancer has to be a certain OZ to balance everything how can you bolt on pulley/belt attachments and covers onto the balancer. Wouldn't that mess up the weight of the balancer and make it unusable. Not sure how that would work.

It is easier if you think of the 28 oz-in as an IMBALANCE weight. So your 28oz damper dudes balancer actually weighs about 10 pounds. But it has an imbalance weight hanging on it that is the equivalent of 28.2 ounces located 1 inch from the center.

So the balancer needs to have a 28 oz imbalance built into it. A pickup truck balancer weighs about 8-9 lbs, and a Boss 302 balancer weighs about 12 lbs. But they are all "28 ounce."

 

[Yeller]

Hubs are not locked and yes it is lifted. Tires appear to be from 2018

That is helpful. I’m assuming since you know the hubs are unlocked you know the transfer case is shifted to 2wd high and not 4wd high. 4wd high can create vibrations even if the hubs are unlocked. That really narrows it down to angle of the pinion on the rear axle to the driveshaft. If that is off you will have vibrations. The correct angle is 1-2 degrees down towards the ground. Pinion pointing 0 degrees or more up above the drive shaft will generate vibrations. This is a very common issue with a lift.

Also 2018 tires while not considered old are old enough to consider replacing, more than 5 years old is when age related issues begin to arise and safety begines to decline.

 

[DirtDonk]

And you should also rotate your tie rod up slightly.
You have a non-stock, double adjustable tie-rod. That means the center link is independent of the two outer tie-rod ends.
This is a very common mistake during installation or adjustment for the installer, or alignment person, or whoever, to point the tie-rod in the wrong direction.
That mounting point, where the drag link mounts to the tie rod, should angle upwards at about 60°.
Roughly pointed at the bottom of the radiator.

 

[Ihavea73]

That is helpful. I’m assuming since you know the hubs are unlocked you know the transfer case is shifted to 2wd high and not 4wd high. 4wd high can create vibrations even if the hubs are unlocked. That really narrows it down to angle of the pinion on the rear axle to the driveshaft. If that is off you will have vibrations. The correct angle is 1-2 degrees down towards the ground. Pinion pointing 0 degrees or more up above the drive shaft will generate vibrations. This is a very common issue with a lift.

Also 2018 tires while not considered old are old enough to consider replacing, more than 5 years old is when age related issues begin to arise and safety begines to decline.

So this needs re aligned?

 

[DirtDonk]

If anything, it looks like the pinion is pointed too low.
Can you get a shot of it more from directly to the side? Also, a shot of where the leaf springs mount to the axle spring perches to show if there is a tapered shim.

Also, is that parking brake cable outside of the leaf spring? Or inside?
Looks like it’s taking quite a hard turn right as it comes out of the brake backing plate.

 

[Ihavea73]

Here are some more pictures of the rear end.
Note - once above 60/65 or so, the steering wheel itself is vibrating/shaking. This led me to think it was something in the front end.
IMG_7195[/url']https://flic.kr/p/2pq2eXk]
IMG_7196[/url']https://flic.kr/p/2ppZ4xc]
IMG_7197[/url']https://flic.kr/p/2pq2eLd]
IMG_7198[/url']https://flic.kr/p/2pq1HGz]
IMG_7199[/url']https://flic.kr/p/2ppUkX2]

 

[Yeller]

From what we can see in the pics yes that is the issue. Had to say for sure but definitely looks to be the issue. That vibration can carry through out the truck.

 

[DirtDonk]

Coming through the steering wheel could certainly be other things, but I agree with Yeller that your rear opinion is too low and you need shims to bring it up.
Probably the standard 6° version, but you might have to measure it first.

Also change the tie rod angle to improve steering feel. That should not change toe-in enough to be a problem, but at least toe-in is easily adjustable, right in your driveway.
In fact, I always tell people to tweak their toe in settings just to see if they can make an improvement. If it doesn’t, you can always put it back.
But if it does, you’ll wonder why you didn’t do it sooner.

 

[NickC24]

It is easier if you think of the 28 oz-in as an IMBALANCE weight. So your 28oz damper dudes balancer actually weighs about 10 pounds. But it has an imbalance weight hanging on it that is the equivalent of 28.2 ounces located 1 inch from the center.

So the balancer needs to have a 28 oz imbalance built into it. A pickup truck balancer weighs about 8-9 lbs, and a Boss 302 balancer weighs about 12 lbs. But they are all "28 ounce."

That makes sense. Thanks

 

[LUBr LuvR]

So what trick/technique/tool have you used to unplug the two connectors for the ignition control module - without damaging either end? Primarily the wiring harness side, but also trying not to break the retaining tabs on the ICM....

 

[DirtDonk]

Easy Peezy. Diagonal pliers, aka dykes.
Just chop the damn things off and replace them with WeatherPacks!
In other words, ever since those stupid connectors were almost brand new, I have never succeeded in getting one apart without breaking at least one tab.

 

[BlueSierra]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement for this broken transfer shifter housing? The identical part is not suitable for lifted broncos, like mine, which I assume is why it’s broken


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DirtDonk]

Likely the best option is a small boot, similar in design to your transmission shifter boot. But with a round hole to match the t-case shifter.

You might be able to modify the stock shift cover, but I’m not sure just what that would entail.

 

[DirtDonk]

The '66 boot seems a good fit, style-wise. Not sure if the diameter of the hole for the lever is the same or not, but that's something that's easily verified.
1966 Dana 20 Shift Boot
The '73 to '77 J-shift boot would be another possibility. Here again though, I don't know the diameter of the hole, or if the shape will cover the entire hole in the floor cleanly.
J-shift T-case Shifter Boot

Is that carpet on the floor? Anything under it, and is the hole in the floor the stock size, or has it been modified?

Paul

 

[BlueSierra]

The '66 boot seems a good fit, style-wise. Not sure if the diameter of the hole for the lever is the same or not, but that's something that's easily verified.
1966 Dana 20 Shift Boot
The '73 to '77 J-shift boot would be another possibility. Here again though, I don't know the diameter of the hole, or if the shape will cover the entire hole in the floor cleanly.
J-shift T-case Shifter Boot

Is that carpet on the floor? Anything under it, and is the hole in the floor the stock size, or has it been modified?

Paul

Thanks. There’s carpet under it. I’ll pull the casing off tomorrow and see what I’m dealing with.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[LUBr LuvR]

Easy Peezy. Diagonal pliers, aka dykes.
Just chop the damn things off and replace them with WeatherPacks!
In other words, ever since those stupid connectors were almost brand new, I have never succeeded in getting one apart without breaking at least one tab.

Hey Paul,

Thanks for the reply. Have no problem dissecting old crusty connectos, however - trying to rule out possible gremlins and want to temporarily put the old ICM back in for a quick minute.

Not really wanting to hack off anything on the brandy-new Motorcraft module. For the short amount of time it’s taken up residence, it’s not wanting to think about leaving.....and trying to grab hold of the wiring side without damaging it is proving to be a challenge.

 

[LUBr LuvR]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement for this broken transfer shifter housing? The identical part is not suitable for lifted broncos, like mine, which I assume is why it’s broken


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like the lower section with the mounting tabs was cut off, and possibly a different metal housing was used? Since the cover sits on top of the tunnel, how does being lifted affect it? Looks like the floor shifter bezel might over/under lap the T-case cover,. Not the greatest pic, but here’s a similar set up on my lofted 70 with a floor shift.

 

[Wild horse 75]

Looks like the lower section with the mounting tabs was cut off, and possibly a different metal housing was used? Since the cover sits on top of the tunnel, how does being lifted affect it? Looks like the floor shifter bezel might over/under lap the T-case cover,. Not the greatest pic, but here’s a similar set up on my lofted 70 with a floor shift.

View attachment 916878

I have a feeling his is body lifted and since the floor is further away from the pivot it travels further and has broken off the top piece of the stock floor cover.

 

[DirtDonk]

Not really wanting to hack off anything on the brandy-new Motorcraft module. For the short amount of time it’s taken up residence, it’s not wanting to think about leaving.....and trying to grab hold of the wiring side without damaging it is proving to be a challenge.

Oh, I hear you. I actually feel the same way.
I just finally gave up because I never really found what could be a really good tool for this.
Something that grabs the inner, while pushing on the outer, and all you have to do is pry the two side tabs slightly.
Two small screwdrivers to pry the tabs up while pulling the two halves apart. It probably works better with four hands.

It’s an unfortunately, very fine line between getting them over the locking tabs, and snapping them off.

You could try something that I’ve often thought about, but never been willing to try for fear of pulling the wires out.
But if anything, the wires on the Dura spark plugs look more well anchored than just about any other connector on the market.
So maybe it’s intended for you to grab it by the wires and pull. I don’t know, and I’ve never done it. But it probably works.
Maybe some others reading this have done it?