Non-Hijacked Steering issue thread

[omureebe]

So many good threads lately about suspension geometry, death wobble, steering wander, shimmying, etc that I can't hijack another person's thread. I get that steering wheel shimmy around 20 MPH that goes away under throttle. Looked at all the geometry and everything looks sorta/kinda good. Pics will be attached shortly, but the video tells all. And my computer is struggling with uploads...

I had my son turn the wheel while I watched the linkages. Not sure how to post a video outside of this....

Check out the vid in particular, but overall it looks like maybe I need to orient the drag link up more? And replace the tie rod ends? Please comment as to what should be done here. Caster is hanging around +1.5 to +2, and I'll swap C-bushings from 4* to 7* shortly. Thinking I need a few other things to clean up first!

Thanks
Omar

 

[omureebe]

adding pics

 

[DirtDonk]

You're right that the geometry looks good initially. But you have a '76/'77 that's been converted to the early Inverted-T style steering, so there could be other things at play here.
Looks like stock replacement linkage too, which means you don't have dual adjuster sleeves on the tie-rod so can't easily just make a change to the draglink angle. Your driver's side tie-rod is rigid and sets the angle. No option of angle there.

The system is using the correct pitman arm (less drop) for the setup, but just how much suspension lift is installed? Perhaps enough that your angles are steep enough to be causing at least some of this tie-rod-roll issue.

First verify that the left and right rod ends are in phase with each other. We can change that later if it's indicated, but for now get them in synch.
Then loosen the draglink adjuster sleeve clamps (both of them) and see if the drag link ends are in their natural position with no tension on them in either direction. Re-tighten the clamps when that is verified.

Then take a closer look at each of the four rod ends to make sure that they are not rocking in their holes. The pitman arm has a larger hole than a Bronco draglink does, so make sure that one is tight first. The lower draglink end is probably fine because it should be compatible with the tie-rod.
Depending on which steering knuckles are being used, there might be a mis-match there. If they are '76/'77 knuckles the rod end studs will be tight, but could be standing off too far. The holes were have had to be enlarged for the rod ends to fit properly. However if they are '76/'79 full-size knuckles instead, the holes would have been too big to begin with.
In either case of the full size knuckles and the pitman arm, there are shims available that might have been used to correct the mis-match. Did you install the steering system yourself, or was it done previously?

Paul

 

[omureebe]

You're right that the geometry looks good initially. But you have a '76/'77 that's been converted to the early Inverted-T style steering, so there could be other things at play here.
Looks like stock replacement linkage too, which means you don't have dual adjuster sleeves on the tie-rod so can't easily just make a change to the draglink angle. Your driver's side tie-rod is rigid and sets the angle. No option of angle there.

The system is using the correct pitman arm (less drop) for the setup, but just how much suspension lift is installed? Perhaps enough that your angles are steep enough to be causing at least some of this tie-rod-roll issue.

First verify that the left and right rod ends are in phase with each other. We can change that later if it's indicated, but for now get them in synch.
Then loosen the draglink adjuster sleeve clamps (both of them) and see if the drag link ends are in their natural position with no tension on them in either direction. Re-tighten the clamps when that is verified.

Then take a closer look at each of the four rod ends to make sure that they are not rocking in their holes. The pitman arm has a larger hole than a Bronco draglink does, so make sure that one is tight first. The lower draglink end is probably fine because it should be compatible with the tie-rod.
Depending on which steering knuckles are being used, there might be a mis-match there. If they are '76/'77 knuckles the rod end studs will be tight, but could be standing off too far. The holes were have had to be enlarged for the rod ends to fit properly. However if they are '76/'79 full-size knuckles instead, the holes would have been too big to begin with.
In either case of the full size knuckles and the pitman arm, there are shims available that might have been used to correct the mis-match. Did you install the steering system yourself, or was it done previously?

Paul

The steering is all PO, and I did just order WH #2351 to get the adjustability inclusive of recentering the steering box. I'm surprised it's a 76/77 setup as most of the "non 1967 body" components are 75! So learned that.... I'll go through the sequence you recommend to see where there may be some bind, but would that tie-rod-roll cause the "shimmy" I can get ~25mph?

I have a 3-1/2" lift, T-Rex arms, Bilsteins all around.

and thanks!
Omar

 

[DirtDonk]

I wondered about the mix of parts. It was your main upper track bar bracket on the frame that clued me into the year. It looks like the 76/77 model without any kind of a drop bracket.
The tire rod rotating like that is more likely to just make the Steering feel more vague and less linear. It probably doesn't cause the shimmy, but it isn't doing anything to help either. Makes it harder to correct I steering input. Shoot me might show up because of loose parts, but it's coming from the tires originally.

You can re-center your steering wheel using just the drag link adjuster. However having the two tie-rod adjusters does let you dial in things a little more precisely.

 

[savage]

Be careful with 7degree bushings with T-rex arms. I just put T-rex arms on my 74 with 4 degree bushing and the drive line angle is close to binding. In my case 7 degree bushings would have put me passed my drive line angle. Have you rotated the tires front to back ,to see if the shimmy changes or goes away? Have you checked your front wheel bearing for looseness? in the video I couldn't see the upper part of the track bar to see if their is any movement. Just some simple things to check that don't cost you anything.

 

[omureebe]

Thanks for all the input.... I'm going to go through the punch list, including switching tires around (which sucks because of those darn shanked lug nuts) to see if that shimmy in the steering wheel goes away. It's all getting closer - thankful for the input and number of threads lately going into steering issues.

Omar

 

[omureebe]

When I looked at the front tire, I could see that there were no weights on the rim. Swapped the rear on, which had weights, and the shimmy went away. Truth be told, when I put not the new rims/tires, I went to the sketchiest (ie - cheap) place I could find. Oops.

I'm going to put the WH #2351 on, really center the axle over the frame (not body sadly because I know it's already off), and *maybe* put in the 7* bushings then go to alignment....

I will say the WH #2351 is very beefy compared to what I have (ie - factory), so looking forward to getting that extra dial-in ability. Getting so much closer to getting a well driving EB. Just surprising that there are SO many issues once you lift one!

Thanks for the comments folks.
Omar

PS- I HATE SHANKED LUG NUTS