Oil Base Implement Paint

[fatboy]

I am still a few months away from even thinking about put something on my current project but the other day I was at Tractor Supply and they had a gallon of Kubota Orange Implement Paint for $30. It is an oil based product, which got me to thinking about application. So I know a bunch of people on here have used implement paint on their project and I want to see pictures of what you did, how you applied it and over all thoughts. Pretty much share what ever you want.

Now this will be no show boat, and I really want to just protect the rusty metal that is left on this rig for the time being. I may or may not try to make it a bit better than rusted, bubbled paint. Any professional painters care to weigh in on process? I was thinking a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gun and my 60 gallon, 7 horse single stage compressor. Again not a beauty queen but I am not opposed to making it look as good as I possibly can, runs and all. ;D

Probably need to thin it some how. Should I prime and if so with what. If I do use filler will the paint take to that differently? Any insight you wish to give me for free is much appreciated.

 

[migs]

Don't really know about that stuff but sounds about the same as using rustoleum? myself, I would stay away from it. especially if your going to put in time doing some body work and priming. after all that work for a little more spent on some decent stuff you'd probably end up with a better job and maybe even increase the value of the truck a bit.
Or, you could hire a local... I think I know a guy that's pretty reasonable. I think he even has quite a bit of that copper pearl left over that you liked on an old VW bug you once saw...;D

 

[durwood71]

I used Van Sickle gloss black tractor paint on my frame and bumpers. Also on various other projects. Thin with Naptha thinner or mineral spirits. I've had better results with Naptha. They also make a primer, good results with that also. I've also used it over PPG epoxy primer, no problems. Should be fine over filler also as long as it cured out properly. It takes a couple days for the paint to dry and harden but if you use their hardener it speeds up the drying and makes a better gloss and harder, tougher paint. I wouldn't hesitate to use it for a low budget paint job.

 

[broncodriver99]

I don't know much about the paint. A buddy of mine did the frame and running gear of his F350 with the black version and it went from black to grey in about 3 months. He ended up re-sandblasing it and going with a chassis black product. The one thing he was really upset about was finding rust under the paint as he was taking it off.

I used the Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun(the purple one) on my axles, suspension, and steering components. Once I figured out what all of the knobs did and dialed it in it did a good job and sprayed nicely. I was spraying the Summit Racing chassis shield which is probably similar in thickness to implement paint.

 

[durwood71]

Oh, and a cheap Harbor Freight gun will be fine. That's what I used. You don't want to shoot that stuff thru a high quality gun, it's tough to clean up!

 

[Slowleak]

I was looking into that last week for respraying my carhauler. I found this link where it looks like you can get good results with hardeners and reducers. My experience with spraying it in the past is that it takes forever to cure so I decided to go with a PPG acrylic enamel. If you are putting time and prep work into it, i would spend a few extra bucks on a quality paint. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/122725-spraying-rust-o-leum-in-a-hvlp-gun/

 

[durwood71]

I don't know much about the paint. A buddy of mine did the frame and running gear of his F350 with the black version and it went from black to grey in about 3 months. He ended up re-sandblasing it and going with a chassis black product. The one thing he was really upset about was finding rust under the paint as he was taking it off.

I used the Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun(the purple one) on my axles, suspension, and steering components. Once I figured out what all of the knobs did and dialed it in it did a good job and sprayed nicely. I was spraying the Summit Racing chassis shield which is probably similar in thickness to implement paint.

I think if you use the hardener it adds some UV protection. I painted my homemade yard roller a year ago. It sits outside all the time and still looks fine.

 

[Slowleak]

Here is a pretty good video about how to use it. I may try it on my old Ford 3000.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FnoY1ENIq7E

 

[fatboy]

Don't really know about that stuff but sounds about the same as using rustoleum? myself, I would stay away from it. especially if your going to put in time doing some body work and priming. after all that work for a little more spent on some decent stuff you'd probably end up with a better job and maybe even increase the value of the truck a bit.
Or, you could hire a local... I think I know a guy that's pretty reasonable. I think he even has quite a bit of that copper pearl left over that you liked on an old VW bug you once saw...;D

I believe the guy you talk about has a pretty full plate, platter actually.

 

[triracer67]

I've applied the Van Sickle and Majic paints on numerous Broncos, with the above mentioned Harbor Freight spray gun. I did shoot them in a spray booth and did my own body work. While they didn't look as good as a 5k paint job(Dupont Imron), people were shocked how nice it looked with implement paint. If you enjoy doing your own work, give it a shot. Worse case scenario, you can sand it off and let a "pro" do the work with better paint. I really think it looks more like what was done in the factory 50 years ago.

 

[migs]

I believe the guy you talk about has a pretty full plate, platter actually.

...but no money to buy needed parts;D;D

 

[Eoth]

I use it on stuff like snowblower, mower deck, etc... looks good and tough as nails.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Tried it once. Not show quality. And it did fade after several years in the sun.
Come to think of it, the paint on my Kubota has fadded after several years in the sun as well.
But the auto paint that was sprayed on my daily driver 7 years ago and sits out in the sun as much ifnot more has not fadded.

 

[Kbpony]

The key to a decent job with that paint is to use their hardener and a reducer. I do a lot of small projects on wagons, trailers, etc. and it works fine. It will shine ok, but nothing like automotive paint and you don't get the opportunity for metal flake or pearl. It does hide pretty well and you can always buy a matching rattle can to patch it up.

 

[Skiddy]

I was looking into that last week for respraying my carhauler. I found this link where it looks like you can get good results with hardeners and reducers. My experience with spraying it in the past is that it takes forever to cure so I decided to go with a PPG acrylic enamel. If you are putting time and prep work into it, i would spend a few extra bucks on a quality paint. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/122725-spraying-rust-o-leum-in-a-hvlp-gun/

I did mine with ditch witch black that I got 5 gallons from work. hasn't faded, but it does take a while to get hard.
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2761719#post2761719

 

[ScanmanSteven]

I've used the black and yellow Majic paint, worst thing is it fades bad. Mines kept inside and I just painted the windshield frame and it looks like a different color because of the fading. Thin with mineral spirits and use the hardener. Majic says to let each coat dry 24 hours before recoating, I didn't and it took weeks to cure.

 

[tasker]

I did mine , but it does take a while to get hard.
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2761719#post2761719

did you really say that Skiddy? ;D

 

[Skiddy]

did you really say that Skiddy? ;D

Yes but they make pills for that;D