Oil pressure gauge help

[brattwurzt]

1968, 302 V8

I have a aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge installed (inherited), and I would like to go back to stock, but I'm not sure what I'm doing. Here is a photo of the current sender/copper tube, and it seems pretty snug, tucked down next to the oil filter. It looks like it's mounted into some sort of extender.

I'm assuming I need to replace this with a new electric sender, but I'm not sure there is enough room.

1. Is this the stock location for the sender?

2. Is the extender stock, or should it be removed?

 

[DirtDonk]

You're on the right track. You might still have some clearance issues with that power steering line being where it is, but that is indeed the stock location for your original sender.

The extension tube is stock too. Can't tell for sure, but if it's aluminum you need to be very careful with it as the threads can snap off or the housing crack very easily. The steel ones are better if you do end up needing to replace it.

As you thought, simply threading the stock type electrical sender into the angled end of the extension tube and then connecting the single wire is all you need to do.

Have fun!%)

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and you can turn the extender slightly so that the point where the sender mounts rotates to a different position for clearance.
Just have to play with it a bit.

The proper sending unit for a gauge is the larger one (looks like this: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/s?keyword=oil+pressure) instead of a smaller one that looks a lot like the end of your existing one. That smaller electrical one is for a light only.

Paul

 

[brattwurzt]

Paul,

You are always answering all my questions. You are indeed an asset to this forum, thank you.

About rotating the extender, it this threaded in as well? So, to rotate it, I'm assuming I should remove it, and then thread it back in until it is snug and in the correct position.

 

[SteveL]

If you can find a ps-17 it works without the extension but they're getting hard to find. I think it's a 19 or 21 mm socket to install either of em

 

[DirtDonk]

Correct. Standard pipe threads is all. Straight into the block.

And the tendency is to use thread sealants (which I do) but you have to be mindful of the fact that the sending unit does it's thing by being a variable resistance to grounding through the engine.
If your engine grounds are good, that's most of the battle of course. But you have to make sure that the threads are still touching metal, so just sayin' don't overdo the sealant.

Paul

 

[brattwurzt]

https://www.amazon.com/Jet-Lube-Ant...829&sr=1-1&keywords=conductive+thread+sealant

would this stuff work?

 

[broncodriver99]

https://www.amazon.com/Jet-Lube-Ant...829&sr=1-1&keywords=conductive+thread+sealant

would this stuff work?

Yes and is a much better product than teflon tape. The standard Aluminum version works too.

 

[DirtDonk]

Love anti-seize.
But one thing I would watch out for then is that the well lubricated threads might allow you to more easily twist it too far and snap pipe threads off.

If it's primarily a thread sealer, then it's not so much of a worry. But primarily a lubricant, while an excellent product, might just give you one more thing to be extra careful of.

Paul

 

[brattwurzt]

If you can find a ps-17 it works without the extension but they're getting hard to find. I think it's a 19 or 21 mm socket to install either of em

Steve, I found one on amazon so I'll give it a try. Thanks for your help.