Old and new alignment numbers

[FOMOCO_1546]

I replaced my 1973 d44 with my parts truck 1974 d44. Bronco is stock suspension with a 1" body lift with 31 inch tires. The items replaced
Ball joints
Inner axle seals
Outer dust seals
Stock Wildhorses coil springs
4* c bushings
Radius arm bushings
Trac bar bushings
Removed rear overload spring due to rake.
First picture is before swap and second picture is current. I am blown away with new caster readings.
My question is what do I do with the camber? Thanks

 

[phred]

There are camber shims available or used to be. They go between the spindle and knuckle. I can’t recall where we used to get them from. Old school alignment shops used to keep them on the racks.

 

[FOMOCO_1546]

There are camber shims available or used to be. They go between the spindle and knuckle. I can’t recall where we used to get them from. Old school alignment shops used to keep them on the racks.

I think that would be the best way but I don't know if they can be bought anywhere. With the 31" tires I'm not sure what the camber should be. I'm thinking stock specs. is to much. Looks like camber sleeves might work.

 

[phred]

I did a search and I found some listed on the internet but the link doesn’t work. Here’s a screen shot of the part.

 

[Tricky Dick]

These are for 6 bolt spindles but with the big slots I bet they would work.

https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/stor...5BR2qrFpPhx1eg6lAfv5fYxsJ6v-MSyFODzlFkXqEHhFE

 

[DirtDonk]

Maybe the OP still has 6-bolt spindles?

 

[DirtDonk]

I would leave the .4 side just like it is for now. Work on getting the 1.8 side down to less than about .8 or so and see how that works.
Stock spec is 1 to 2 degrees positive, which works fine for general drivability. But slightly sucks for tire wear.
Less than 1 degree seems to be the desired area these days, but not sure just what the lower limit should be.

I think there have been some discussions with that in mind in the past. Maybe one of the alignment experts will chime in with their theories.
Better yet would be someone with direct experience with low numbers to relate their feelings on the subject.

 

[FOMOCO_1546]

I would leave the .4 side just like it is for now. Work on getting the 1.8 side down to less than about .8 or so and see how that works.
Stock spec is 1 to 2 degrees positive, which works fine for general drivability. But slightly sucks for tire wear.
Less than 1 degree seems to be the desired area these days, but not sure just what the lower limit should be.

I think there have been some discussions with that in mind in the past. Maybe one of the alignment experts will chime in with their theories.
Better yet would be someone with direct experience with low numbers to relate their feelings on the subject.

Thanks Paul, what if I were to install an accentric ball joint sleeve on the passenger side? I already have a set of 1.5 degree sleeves that I tried on my previous axle for caster. I could put it in on full camber or slightly adjust to negative caster that I have plenty of.

 

[DirtDonk]

Correct. You could get away with less caster with no ill effects. You don't want to lose all of your camber I would not think, but knocking it down to a more reasonable level with the sleeves is a good thing.
And if it turns out to be a desirable option, pushing the low side up a bit might be a good way to use the other extra sleeve.

Wait for some of the alignment gurus to chime in and describe the advantages of "cross-camber" here in this thread, to see where you really want to be. Whether more camber on the driver's side, or more on the passenger side. But I believe that a couple of tenths difference is desirable. Here again though, not sure what the limits are.

Paul

 

[Yeller]

The caster numbers are fantastic, as long as the ujoint at the pinion doesn’t bind it will drive great. As for the camber, I prefer 1-1.5 degrees, them not being equal isn’t a deal breaker. As for the caster I like them being equal, roads have changed over the last 50 years. They have gone from 2 lane roads with a crown that always pushes to the right to multi lane highways that push you every direction but straight. This has eliminated the need for cross camber. Having it is fine but running the left lane on the freeway may push to the left a lot.

I’d use the eccentric bushings for the upper ball joint to correct the camber and use any remaining angle to maybe adjust the caster some. But otherwise, drive it.