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3 Arm Wiper Setup
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Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
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Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
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One Piece Door Window kit
- Thread starter stus70brc
- Start date
carter2772
Bronco Guru
audio and video worked for me
Great video, did you have to make custom brackets for the power windows?
Madgyver
Bronco Madman
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2001
- Messages
- 15,030
I'll try posting it again.
audio and video worked for me too
Audio and video works for me. Excellent work. I am budgeting for this mod myself.
Madgyver
Bronco Madman
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2001
- Messages
- 15,030
Yes. Mad Fabricated brackets to mount window motors
Madgyver
Bronco Madman
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2001
- Messages
- 15,030
https://www.onepieceproducts.com/1966-1977-ford-bronco-1pc-door-glass-kit/p5
these guys have them at $1300.+ with shipping included.
Nurelics had a link to their kit but no longer on their website..
these guys have them at $1300.+ with shipping included.
Nurelics had a link to their kit but no longer on their website..
Yes, that’s who I bought from and they are a bunch of fuck faces. The motor assembly is Nurelics. They just make the glass and channel and spacer assembly.
Did I mention they are fuck faces? I am holding back too.
Excuse my language.
Did I mention they are fuck faces? I am holding back too.
Excuse my language.
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2007
- Messages
- 371
Do you mind expounding on your negative experience? I’d like to know what I’d be dealing with. I already have the Nurelics system for a regular window (not installed). I’d like to see if I can get what I don’t have from them.
Also, despite your disdain for them, is the finished product good?
Also, despite your disdain for them, is the finished product good?
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2007
- Messages
- 371
Also, I should probably add that BC Broncos is working on a kit that will have the piece in the corner with a Jeep mirror attached. I believe you will be able to adjust your mirrors, use a mirror heater, etc. I wish there were an option for a lower profile mirror, but it’s nice to see people innovating.
I ordered from onepieceproducts.com on Black Friday last year. Despite the promise of their sale, I paid full price. I emailed and asked to be sure I'd receive the sale price and the owner, Ben Tapia, responded, "We will apply the sale discount on all orders this weekend. " (Great...I thought).
The following Friday, I got a call asking if it would be ok if they sent the windows and kit and had the regulators drop shipped from NuRelics. I also asked if they could email me the instructions so I could be sure if anything needed to be done before paint, since my Bronco was having the finish bodywork done as we speak. "Daisy" said , "We are revising the instructions but as long as you don't mind not having the cover page, I can email them".
I said, "of course, no problem..., please ship and please email"
I waited. Nothing. Shipping label was created, but no package.
A week and a half later (12/13), I emailed and asked for an update on both the discount that still hadn't been adjusted, the discount, and the shipping. Owner responded in what seemed a rude way and he said I should have received the instructions (which I didn't) and that he told me that my discount would be applied after shipment (which he didn't either). I let him know he hadn't done either of those things and showed him our email chain with nothing but what he said the first time.
No response back, no package, I asked for an update on 12/29 to the owner, 1/9 to Owner and Daisy, 1/25 to owner and Daisy and no shipment, no instructions, no correction on price, no contact or repose with update after spending a whole lot of money two whole months earlier.
After getting no response to that one either, I called and spoke to Daisy. She thought that package had shipped despite my multiple emails telling her it hadn't. She put me on hold and went and checked their warehouse and blamed it on the Fedex guy that he never picked it up. Yeah, Fedex guy. I'm sure it's his fault. Fedex sucks, but you're sending the package, not fedex. I also asked about the instructions and this time she finally emailed them. I asked about the price correction and was finally done.
Sadly though, my paint was pretty much done by that time so defeated the purpose of me even buying them so early. I gave them the benefit of the doubt several times and just either assumed they were busy or unorganized, or whatever it might be, but...
I finally received the window kit and guess what? The regulators weren't in there. They hadn't had them drop shipped either. I had to let Daisy know and she sent them. After receiving those, I got the rest of the stuff out to see and guess what now? I paid for tinted windows and my windows were clear and not tinted.
You can guess they never responded to the multiple emails and I give up. These people suck. They are clueless. They don't know how to manage a business or deliver a product.
You could buy the windows from WH and then the regulator kit from NuRelics. You'd probably pay a lot less.
If you absolutely want their kit, you could buy it from carolinaclassictrucks.com and get it and not deal with those idiots directly. I bet you'd have better luck.
Is the product good? I dunno really. Seems nice but I have no interest in installing it as every time I look at the kit, I think about me not getting what I paid for and the horrible experience. I'll get around to it soon as I don't have a ton left on the Bronco, but I've never had such a horrible experience with a company and I spend a boatload of money on stuff online. In all my years, this one takes the cake.
Ok, I needed to make a mirror decision so decided to do one.
The instructions are a complete joke. They copied and pasted the Nu-Relic instructions which do not apply and also included those in the regulator package. I followed them and it tells you where to drill holes. You need 1” holes to access the U-Channel at the bottom of the window, to tighten the screws and attach the window. One Piece Products decided to put those attachment points in a different place and those holes don’t line up. Joy.
They are the right distance apart, but need to be about an inch or so to the front of the door. If you get this kit, that’s about 5” from the rear edge of the window and then another 22.5” from that hole.
I got it to work by drilling another small hole large enough for a screwdriver. Would’ve been nice if they had been in the right place though.
I’ve done all except the door edge scrapers.
It does hit the clip for the inside door handle and it did break the clip so I’ve got to figure that out still but it works.
The glass isn’t tinted how I wanted but it at least nice.
The instructions are a complete joke. They copied and pasted the Nu-Relic instructions which do not apply and also included those in the regulator package. I followed them and it tells you where to drill holes. You need 1” holes to access the U-Channel at the bottom of the window, to tighten the screws and attach the window. One Piece Products decided to put those attachment points in a different place and those holes don’t line up. Joy.
They are the right distance apart, but need to be about an inch or so to the front of the door. If you get this kit, that’s about 5” from the rear edge of the window and then another 22.5” from that hole.
I got it to work by drilling another small hole large enough for a screwdriver. Would’ve been nice if they had been in the right place though.
I’ve done all except the door edge scrapers.
It does hit the clip for the inside door handle and it did break the clip so I’ve got to figure that out still but it works.
The glass isn’t tinted how I wanted but it at least nice.
I decided I would modify their pdf instructions and send back to them in hopes they would fix it so nobody else has the same issues and asked some questions as well and surprisingly, I received a call back pretty quickly.
I asked about the tint again, and he apologized and said he'd credit me back.
I asked about the rubbing of the door latch rod and he said he's seen that and has to pull the door insides inward to clear.
I asked about the cover they give for the inside of the corner piece and he explained what he does. (He was using tree rivets but found that prying off the tabs and using double stick tape works better.)
---
For the door latch rubbing, I don't love that idea. I'll likely just cut the rod, thread and attach a clevis rod end for more clearance. Makes more sense than pulling the inside of your door in. But after searching, I can't seem to find a #8 clevis rod end so not sure what to do. I could try to drill a 1/16 hole through the rod and use a cotter pin but I think that's a last resort. I could try going to a #10 rod but i don't think there is much clearance and doing so would also move the rod towards the window with a clevis rod on the door latch end since stock it goes through the hole from the inside and would be direct with a clevis end there.
Could just try a shaft collar on the end of the rod that comes through the hole.
Groove for a retaining ring? Not sure how I'd do that though.
Anyone have any better ideas?
I asked about the tint again, and he apologized and said he'd credit me back.
I asked about the rubbing of the door latch rod and he said he's seen that and has to pull the door insides inward to clear.
I asked about the cover they give for the inside of the corner piece and he explained what he does. (He was using tree rivets but found that prying off the tabs and using double stick tape works better.)
---
For the door latch rubbing, I don't love that idea. I'll likely just cut the rod, thread and attach a clevis rod end for more clearance. Makes more sense than pulling the inside of your door in. But after searching, I can't seem to find a #8 clevis rod end so not sure what to do. I could try to drill a 1/16 hole through the rod and use a cotter pin but I think that's a last resort. I could try going to a #10 rod but i don't think there is much clearance and doing so would also move the rod towards the window with a clevis rod on the door latch end since stock it goes through the hole from the inside and would be direct with a clevis end there.
Could just try a shaft collar on the end of the rod that comes through the hole.
Groove for a retaining ring? Not sure how I'd do that though.
Anyone have any better ideas?
ohhh, just found this... didn't even think to look for a metal clip.
real4wd.com
Should work great.
Clip-Clevis, Rod End Retaining, L.H.
Real4WD - 5935622 - Clip-Clevis, Rod End Retaining, L.H. 5340011968158, NSN 5340-01-196-8158
real4wd.com
Should work great.
I ordered from here:
www.npdlink.com
Dennis Carpenter looks like has the same clip and say it's carb linkage.
www.dennis-carpenter.com
CLIP, ROD END CLEVIS, LH - #9826-1 - National Parts Depot
Buy part #9826-1 CLIP, ROD END CLEVIS, LH for your classic vehicle from National Parts Depot. Free shipping on orders over $300, fast delivery & everyday low pricing! Order now!
www.npdlink.com
Dennis Carpenter looks like has the same clip and say it's carb linkage.
Carburetor Linkage Rod End Clip - Left for 1957-76 Ford Trucks and Cars | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restorations
Carburetor Linkage Rod End Clip - Left Ford Trucks Cars 1957 1958 1959 1960 1961 1962 1963 1964 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 1976 Thunderbird Econoline Galaxie Falcon Fairlane F100 F250 F350 F150 B7A9826A
www.dennis-carpenter.com
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2007
- Messages
- 371
Thanks for the explanation. I’d love to see your modified instructions when you’re done.
Will do. I’ll wrap up soon but been oit and leaving town again for a bit so might be next week sometime.
Those clips I ordered came and were absolutely perfect! I’m gonna tell them they should include them in the kit. Why bend a door when you can buy a cheap better clip instead!
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