• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Painless Wiring Harness

Joined
Oct 17, 2014
Messages
45
Loc.
Madison, MS
I have purchased and about to start installing a Painless wiring harness but wanted to see if anyone that has installed one of these had any suggestions before I start. I got the harness with switches. I have glanced at the instructions and it doesn't seem "that" bad, but I'm sure someone that has already installed one will have plenty to say otherwise.

So, any suggestions??
 

BroncoChicken

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2015
Messages
356
Go slow, double check every step before your move on to the next one. It's not bad at all.
 

SHX669

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
1,997
I had a hard time talking myself into cutting the snap ties and separating the bundles into the "runs/firewall penetrations" i wanted - they looked too good to be messing with. LOL.
But i did the obvious ; separated and ran the passenger/battery side stuff thru the firewall up and behind the glove box , the engine stuff{temp gauge, oil pressure ,coil ,choke} above the gas pedal and the driver side and wires for the rear high and to the left of the fresh air box.
Some guys say to remove the dash - I didn't and won't remove it for the next one either . take out your glove box, ash tray ,radio ,switches , instrument cluster and you can reach in and access most things- especially if you got the kit that includes the switches .
Before I mounted the new switches I ran the wires thru the "switch hole ' from behind/under the dash then connected them to the back of the switch then mounted the switch.
Oh - While i had all the stuff removed from the dash i cleaned and painted the dash and took the opportunity to clean and repaint some of the instrument cluster . While you have that out you might consider replacing the amp meter with a volt meter . The vendors sell a replacement that bolts in and looks factory.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,462
Very good advice there!
And don't even THINK of wrapping it up until, well, it's all wrapped up!
What I mean is don't go making anything final until you've completed the job, made sure that everything works, and that it's all routed the way YOU want it. Remember theirs is bundled to be close to stock, but also to cover at least three different generations of the Bronco harness from the factory.
Luckily your '73 should be basically how they have it laid out. But like SHX, you may have your own preferred routing for some things.

What else are you doing at the same time? Anything like an alternator upgrade or EFI?
Things like that can definitely effect how you route certain branches and individual circuits.
Adding lights and radios?

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,462
Oh, and "add grounds" no matter whether you think you can get away with what Painless supplies or not. They only include what's needed for the specific local circuits. It's up to you entirely to upgrade the Bronco's general grounds to make the best setup possible.

Plenty of details in threads about that here, but if you're not sure after reading a few, ask away.

Paul
 

Show Links

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
298
Loc.
Bakersfield
All great advice, especially adding grounds while you have free access. Do a search on the proper grounds, particularly extra grounds to the dash board, cowl, and firewall. Also, take careful notes on the use of accessory wires and accompanying fuse box. Lastly, leave unused accessory wires accessible even after completion. The urge will be the shorten wires, terminate and hide away, but if you decide to add fog lights, cb, etcetera later, you'll regret having to find the well documented, free accessory wires for later use, particularly after you add a/c vents. Ask me how I know.

Have fun. It's one of the best upgrades I've done to mine.

Rob
 

Brent13

Full Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2015
Messages
673
Loc.
Colorado Springs
I just finished the same harness install. Certainly my biggest project to date. It is not difficult once you get started, just take your time. Triple check your work. If you think something isn't quite right, it probably isn't. I pulled my dash out. It is certainly more work, but I think it is worth it just because the instructions are written as if the dash was pulled. Wiring of the dash is easy. Highly recommend taking extra time to paint or powder coat dash, make it look new. The difficulty I had, turn signal switch and ignition switch. Turn signal switch I bought turned out to be faulty. Brand new and it was bad, bought another and all problems resolved. And the Duraspark ignition, never did get a damn spark. Threw it in the trash and bought MSD, problem solved. You will be very happy when done, certainly my best mod yet. And again, triple check all your work, can't stress that point enough!
 

twisted 66

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2008
Messages
454
Loc.
Norcal-Tracy
More grounds are a must, I grounded more than needed probably. I ran into a few interesting things with running led lights and emergency flashers. Flasher problem was caused by using the battery charger the way painless reccomends. Once I landed both wires to the battery the buzzing relay/non flashing marker problem went away. The other was my front marker lights were wired backwards from painless. I switched the wires around and they worked perfectly. They told me they have had this reported to them before, they said ford sometimes had the wires backwards on the buckets themselves... %) Overall just take your time and double check everything. Do not loom anything until it is up and running and tested out.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,462
I grounded more than needed probably.

No such thing!;D

With the lights, we have to change the wires on 99% of the front turn signals we get in. We test 100% of them, but occasionally one comes through correct.:cry:
Still to this day in fact, even after a couple of years of telling the manufacturer that they're in backwards.

No change from their end, so we do it ourselves. If yours were from us, we apparently missed a set. I think I remember us talking about that in your original discussion, but don't remember who you bought them from.

Paul
 
OP
OP
Bletch
Joined
Oct 17, 2014
Messages
45
Loc.
Madison, MS
Great stuff guys! I greatly appreciate all the advice. I am in the process of removing my dash now and its proving to be a little more trouble than I thought. It does have a diamond plate overlay on it (installed by previous owner) and that is partially the problem. I definitely need to research the grounds that yall are talking about. I honestly haven't thought about that at all. I'm assuming painless doesn't account for enough grounds to properly ground everything?? After looking through the instructions, it really didn't appear to be that bad but I thought I would throw it out there to see if I was horribly mistaken but it doesn't sound like you guys are making it sound to bad.

Paul, not upgrading anything at the moment other than headlight upgrade but I bought the kit with that included. Already upgraded alternator recently when I upgraded to my 351. I just got tired of chasing down bad wires and improperly working lights. I did think about adding a volt meter to my cluster while its out and seriously thinking about a new dash now! And since I bought my harness from you guys hopefully I won't have the turn signal issue.

Thanks again guys! I hope to start on it in the next week or so and will keep you guys posted.
 

Attac

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Messages
865
Bletch,
I also did this about a year ago now on mine. Any problem that I ran into was my bad grounds. Wherever you are grounding to you need to run a burnishing brush where the old ground was removed. I had just completely repainted during a frame off and thought that the screw or post I was grounding to would be sufficient. I was wrong. you need the Terminal end to contact metal to metal. I also used dielectric grease on all attachments to ground. I called painless about 4 times. Convo went like this...X is not working....Painless guy "check the ground"... Me "I have its good"...Painless guy "Check it again by running a ground jumper directly to battery"... Me "Ok that works now"... Painless "redo ground".. They were always right.
Chuck
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,462
Hah! Good story Chuck. Very common thread among rewirers-of-broncos.

The grounds included in the harness are fine for just that Bletch. The harness functions. But what Attac was saying is what happens when the body is not a good grounding point for the harness.
YOU have to supply the base ground components such as the negative battery cable and every other kind of ground jumper to "bond" the body panels together. The harness then uses what you've laid out as your basic platform, and runs from there.

So what you have to make sure to do is to cover the basics.
Your battery cables should be larger than stock. I use at least 4ga as a minimum, but more often than not use 2ga.
Grounding straps for other aspects can be as small as 10ga wire, but those little store-bought braided straps are handy, clean (look factory because they are) and are the equivalent of a heavy gauge wire.

So, with that in mind:

1. Good heavy gauge ground cable from the battery to the engine. Anywhere on the main block is fine (not the intake manifold or accessory bolt if you can avoid them) but closer to the starter motor is better.
2. A 10ga wire, or braided strap from the battery negative to the body. Usually the first point of contact is the passenger wheel well. That's where Ford put the one and only body ground originally, but you're going to add more.
3. Back of engine to firewall. Another wire or braided strap here is your hero in avoiding future head-scratchers when firing up your electrical systems for the first time.
4. A 10ga wire between your dash board and the firewall. Often the opposite side of the same screw/bolt you used to ground the back of the engine.

In the overkill is just enough department:
5. A good heavy cable between the engine and frame.
6. A 10ga wire between the alternator housing and the engine block.
7. If your body is older and rustier, a short 10ga jumper between the body and the windshield frame will do your wipers wonders.
8. Bond the hood to the cowl with another one of those braided straps. Doesn't help anything but maybe an underhood light from an electrical standpoint, but it very well might keep your sanity in check by reducing radio noise.
I'm sure all the factories don't do it for their health or some obscure under-hood lamp.

None of those last ones are completely necessary, but you're not really going to lose any sleep over missing electrons if you do them either.;)
But you can certainly see a pattern of slight overkill, and see too where a nice roll of 10ga black wire and a few extra ring terminals will come in very handy in the near future.

Paul
 
OP
OP
Bletch
Joined
Oct 17, 2014
Messages
45
Loc.
Madison, MS
So I'm thinking the grounds are pretty important and a known culprit of problems?? Is that what you guys are saying?? Hahahaha! Thanks guys! I will definitely keep all this in mind once I start. And Paul, you saved me some major research time by telling me all this in your last response, so thank you very much!
 

twisted 66

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2008
Messages
454
Loc.
Norcal-Tracy
As stated earlier I may of over done it. I am grounded with 4 gauge from bat to block, head to head, head to frame, bat to body, frame to block, maybe forgetting one but no ground problems at least;D
 
Top