Pertronix 510 Digital HP Ignition Question

[jerry]

I picked up one of the Pertronix 510C kits a few weeks ago (the one with the non-bluetooth ignition box + coil). Took my time to temporarily wire it up - first using the stock points distributor, then with a NOS Duraspark style I picked up on eBay. So far so good. (I have a Painless harness, so bypassing the ballast resistor is super easy to ensure the box receives full voltage.)

Now comes the time to decide where to permanently mount the ignition box. Speaking with a tech from Pertronix this afternoon, he said that unless you're going to be slopping through mud and water on a regular basis, a splash here and there won't hurt things. It's not that I don't believe him... But this is going to be a daily driver, and I'd prefer to think things through and do the job correctly the first time. I appreciate the fact that this is all made in the USA (part of what influenced my decision to purchase), but carefully opening the box and sliding out the circuit board... The quality looks fine, but it is all surface mount components with no weatherproofing (not epoxy potted, etc.):

I know WH sells them, and searching our forums I see posts from @camp9k and @jeffncs discussing their installs... I am curious whether there are reliability or longevity issues mounting on the fender (vertically or horizontally).

Other mounting ideas would include coming up with some sort of an enclosure for the box that would allow some ventilation and better splash protection... Or whether I should try to cram it somewhere into the cab (which I'd like to do in a manner to be able to see the LEDs when needed - on board where the stock speaker goes is one idea, in glove box, etc.) I'd like to avoid the glove box - it's small enough already, and will get smaller when I install AC later on.

One last note: I also wanted to compliment Travis, the Pertronix tech I spoke with. He might be on here - said he owns a '75, but running Duraspark in that rig (but made it clear he's run this box on some other of his project vehicles. Super nice guy, didn't treat me like a dummy (even though I'm guessing he's answered this question 1000 times before). Much appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Broncobowsher]

Looking at the pictures, I think it has a conformal coating on it. That is a basic environmental coating applied to electronics. While not potted, there is still protection. As far as potting goes, I got an afternoon lecture once from a friend who has his masters in electrical engineering. Potting isn't as simple as it sounds. The number of different compounds, and what they are (and are not) good for. There are times where you will have more engineering into the potting than into the board itself.

The board does look to be well put together. But even so, I don't like baking electronics. If it makes sense, I would simply mount it under the dash. Not too worried about splash, I've had tool boxes bolted to the inner fender before and they never had water issues.

 

[jerry]

Appreciate the feedback. Im taking your advice and finding a place to mount in the cab...

 

[jerry]

I thought I would provide everybody with an update, whether they want it or not, haha

So Advanced Auto parts was going out business here in California. As a result, they were selling these "digital hp" box with the coil for a fraction of full retail. I did with any man would do, without his wife keeping an eye on his spending- I bought three.

Put number one in, it had problems, would run and then just stop. To rule out a couple of probable causes, I replaced my 4-year-old battery, and swapped my 3G alternator pulley with a smaller diameter one. (I had gone with a larger one initially to give the belt more gripping area, then realized if I just sent the tension properly with a stock sized pulley it would be fine.)

Got busy, about a month, went by and then finally started putting things back together last night. California gas is garbage, so it took a little cranking but then it fired up and after warming up idled okay.

Was letting it idle, which it did so for about 10 minutes, then all the sudden it just stopped. On re-crank, it would not fire, clearly was getting gas because you could smell it. The reason I was letting it idle is I was playing around with an oscilloscope. I have, trying to get some secondary ignition readings (New to that, learning as I go). I was in the process of trying to get another capture when it died. Trying to get readings after it died- appears that the coil is not firing.

So this is the second box I have put in. The first box did the same thing, swap to number two, it did the same thing which is where we're at now.

My other observance was it is now throwing some codes that are not in chart that comes with the product.

All the codes are: 16, 21,23,24,41. Product documentation suggests:

16 - low voltage, 5v or under. At the switch connection to the unit, it's at least 12.5v v The main power leads are running directly to the battery at the moment, have good ring terminals on them etc.
21 - coil output open. Kind of hard to say the output is open. If it's running, right? I notice it on these coils. The resistance is very low, I compared the one I had installed with one on the shelf, there's virtually no resistance. The truck has a new painless wiring harness in it, so with the separate ballast resistor I just bypassed it for this.

23,24, and 41 are not documented.

Before it died, it was showing code 16 and 21. I didn't know if that was a holdover from the time before I swap the battery and alternator pulley.

Oh, I'm also running a later model duraspark distributor now. After I got the Pertronix running with the points, swapped this in because I figured this would be a good path forward.

If anybody has some insight it would be appreciated. I'm at the point though, where, while I like the idea of an aftermarket ignition system that does multiple sparks and is American made... If it's not reliable idling in my garage, I can't trust it. Subsequently, I did order the Painless Duraspark 2 wiring harness (#30813) and Standard Motor Products LX-203 (blue strain relief) to head in that direction.

 

[jerry]

The more I think about it, the more I think I'm going go swap to Duraspark and be happy with it. I'll buy a spare module, and keep my points distributor, as backups.

I really thought the Pertronix conversion was going to work well for me. And if module #1 had problems, well there was always #2 and #3 to fail to.

While I'm mildly frustrated at all the time I spent on this... Not the most expensive mistake I'e made, and it was a learning experience. I would definiely be more upset if I'd paid $300+ for each of the kits... Or even worse - took the wife out for a ride and it goes kaput!

 

[ntsqd]

New D-S II modules seem to be hit or miss. I've never had a JY sourced module fail. Food for thought.......