Positive winch cable end!?

[matt w]

I have a warn XD9000i .
I had a short and ended up having to cut the positive cable termenal end off because it slightly melted to the battery.

I can't seem to find an end online and I'm not so sure what the gage of that positive wire is to even look.

Can anyone advise me? Right now I have NO WINCH - but I am married!️ I couldn't resist!

 

[DirtDonk]

It's probably 2ga at the very least. You should be able to make your own, buy one close enough, or get a replacement from Warn.
Do you know what caused the short though? Hopefully that's all fixed.

Paul

 

[ntsqd]

Maybe a marine battery switch between the battery and the winch so it's not live until you need it to be?

Scroll down to the 2-packs:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor--heavy-duty-lugs--P009_275_004_004?recordNum=12
Shipping might still kill the deal unless you happen to be near one of their stores.

 

[svobronco]

Electrical supply houses will have those too.

 

[Steve83]

I had a short and ended up having to cut the positive cable termenal end off because it slightly melted to the battery.

Click this & read all the captions:

I can't seem to find an end online and I'm not so sure what the gage of that positive wire is to even look.

Get a drill index, strip back ~1" of insulation, and measure the Copper. Then compare it to the chart ~1/4 down this page:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

Common Copper eye terminals can be found at most auto parts stores, some hardware stores, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, welding supply houses... But you'd be better-off soldering the winch cables into the main battery terminals, as that first link shows. At full stall, a 9K winch can pull a few hundred Amps, which is more than most cutoff switches are rated for.

 

[ntsqd]

The solder vs. crimp debate has no resolution because both, when done correctly, are equal solutions. Which to choose depends on which you can best execute. I prefer crimping, but I've been long term loaned a Greenlee hex die crimper suitable for cable lugs in this size range. I probably would feel different without that expensive tool being available.

I have also become a convert of using the so-called "military battery terminals". Those allow the use of simple cable eyelet lugs on both ends of the heavy cables, which makes stacking multiple heavy cables easy. Image is from amazon, but I've found that I can buy them from my local CarQuest for less than the amazon price and with no shipping cost or delay.

 

[sykanr0ng]

Cable lugs are not hard to make out of copper tubing.
Flatten the end and drill the hole before you cut the lug to length, that makes it easier to hold.

 

[Rustytruck]

Go to west marine. They carry the ends an can properly crimp them for you. Some old school Napa parts houses can do it for you too. Maybe your local welding supply too.

 

[ntsqd]

Cable lugs are not hard to make out of copper tubing.
Flatten the end and drill the hole before you cut the lug to length, that makes it easier to hold.

I suppose you could if you're desperate and don't care about proper sizing of the lug to the cable. Or get lucky.

 

[matt w]

It's probably 2ga at the very least. You should be able to make your own, buy one close enough, or get a replacement from Warn.
Do you know what caused the short though? Hopefully that's all fixed.

Paul

yes I do...the battery, during some crazy fish-tailing in the dirt contacted the hood and started a melt down! I don't drive crazy like that so its was an unusual circumstance and I have secured the battery even better. Glad it happened on my property and that I was going slow after the "playtime" so I was able to see the smoke under the hood and was able to put it out about as fast as it started!

 

[Steve83]

...the battery...contacted the hood...

That's what the rubber cover over the positive terminal is for, on most modern vehicles. It's cheap & effective, so consider snagging one. If you don't like that look, consider gluing some thick plastic to the hood (like a section cut from an antifreeze jug, or the side of a plastic storage box, or...). But a good battery hold-down is worth the effort; not just to prevent a battery explosion or fire, but also to prolong the battery's life by reducing impacts as it slides around (even during normal on-road driving).

 

[ntsqd]

Second that, a solid battery hold-down is a must. So many people seem to think just anything will work and it won't. Say that battery weighs 50 lbs. In the simplest of rough movements off-road its own inertia will make it act like it weighs 150 lbs., at the least! Plan battery hold-down parts accordingly.