Priming the engine

[deltabronco]

Any good articles about priming the engine? I put 5 qts of Rotella in, removed the distributor and attatched a hex rod and began rotating it counter clockwise. This was done rather easily and the cordless drill showed no strain. I did notice a small oil leak at the rear of the driver side vavle cover but identified that the bolt was loose. Question is, was the pump moving oil as it should. How long do i need to do this to prime properly? The engine was built 6 yrs ago and never cranked. This is the first time fluids have been put into it, other than an engine oil fog. Is there anything else i need to do, or anything i am doing wrong?

 

[Teal68]

I like to also rotate the crank to a few positions priming each time. I've only had one motor ever that would not pump up so hard the drill stopped or slowed dramatically. Had me worried something fierce, but that motor still holds a good steady 40-60 psi cruising....so don't let the drill not slowing down worry you. Other than that make sure your timing is as close as you can get it, coolant full, and no wires or crap to get burnt or caught on something.

What type of motor is it? I take it from the Rotella that it is not roller? If it's not a roller be sure to run it at 2,000 to 2,500 for 20 minutes. I like to vary the RPM's, and I have never had a cam failure. Fingers crossed I never do!

Let us know how it goes,
Tyler

 

[deltabronco]

302 with rv torque cam. Thats a tapet (sp) i beleive. I wont be cranking it until next weekend. I just installed a centech and want to make sure all wires are connected or terminated correctly. I continued with the drill and it finally tightend up to were the drill wouldnt turn. Its a pretty weak ryobi drill.

 

[tabascom16]

Take the valve covers off and see if it is actually pumping oil. Every one I have ever primed the drill has shown at least a little sign of resistance.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Only need to prime for 30 seconds to a minute. At that point all the passages are now full of oil. Do you have an oil pressure gauge? It should read while priming. Should not need a lot of force to run the pump.

 

[deltabronco]

I do have a gauge but the battery isnt currently hooked up. I dont beleive i ran the drill for more that 30-45 sec at a low rpm. I can take the valve covers off but i did see oil comini g out of the back driverside due to a loose vavle cover bolt. I can still pull them if necessary.

 

[BR549]

For some reason I thought rotella oil had taken the zinc out, but I have been wrong many times. After you break in the cam check into brad penn oil as it is formulated for older engines. It does cost more, but I think it's cheap insurance.

 

[5001craig]

My engine builder said he only recommends Brad Penn. And he's been around a long time.

So that's what I'm running. And I thought I was an oil snob.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Make sure the engine is static timed, the carb primed, and you have a garden hose ready.
It's important that a new cam be brought up to high idle RIGHT AWAY, and keep it there. The ability to idle isn't important right now. Just get it up to high idle and keep it there.
Some say you need to vary the speed. That may help seat the rings, but the cam break-in is what's important right after start-up.

Priming the oil passages is a good thing but does zip for the cam lobes and lifters. Those should have been installed with assembly lube.

Also, Shell Rotella has been made with very little zinc for a long time now. It's not going to be enough. Since you've already got the oil in it, you had better get some zinc additive into the pan before startup. The stuff I use is Comp Cams break-in additive. I've also seen zinc additive on shelves at good auto parts stores. Red Line is one brand that comes to mind.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-159

I've eaten a cam on startup and it's not an easy cleanup. It's not just replacing the cam and lifters. It means disassembling and cleaning the particles out of the motor.

 

[deltabronco]

Garden hose, for cooling? Also i dont have a tach, is that something i should invest in?

 

[BroncoSnake]

I had a builder tell me to NEVER use a drill to prime. I can't remember his reasoning but it seemed to make sense at the time. Since then I've always used a speed handle. From my experience, the pump will always get more difficult to spin after it begins to pick up oil. I did have an issue one time were a gallery plug pushed out during priming and the resistance to spinning the pump went with it. Had to take the front cover off and tap the plug for screw in type plugs.

 

[deltabronco]

Interesting, anyone heard anything to this effect?

 

[bmc69]

I've always used a large drill to prime the oil system and the resistance should become pretty significant once the oil had been distributed and the pressure rises....

 

[blubuckaroo]

I had a builder tell me to NEVER use a drill to prime. I can't remember his reasoning but it seemed to make sense at the time. Since then I've always used a speed handle. From my experience, the pump will always get more difficult to spin after it begins to pick up oil. I did have an issue one time were a gallery plug pushed out during priming and the resistance to spinning the pump went with it. Had to take the front cover off and tap the plug for screw in type plugs.

There is a bypass built into the oil pump to keep it from over pressurizing the system. It makes no difference weather you drive it with a drill, speed handle, or the distributor when the engine is running.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Garden hose, for cooling? Also i dont have a tach, is that something i should invest in?

The garden hose is to fill the radiator after startup. When you get the engine started you won't have time to start looking for water.

And yes, you really should have a tach. You'll need it anyway to set the final timing after this initial run.

 

[deltabronco]

I've always used a large drill to prime the oil system and the resistance should become pretty significant once the oil had been distributed and the pressure rises....

I stoped once the drill started binding. Like i said its a weak cordless screw drill/screwdriver.

 

[deltabronco]

The garden hose is to fill the radiator after startup. When you get the engine started you won't have time to start looking for water.

And yes, you really should have a tach. You'll need it anyway to set the final timing after this initial run.

Gotcha, i didnt even think of the engine sucking in all the coolant from the radiator.
Ill order a tach today.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Gotcha, i didnt even think of the engine sucking in all the coolant from the radiator.
Ill order a tach today.

It's Friday and there will be yard sales tomorrow. That's where I got mine for $5. Timing lights and tachs are common items there since most people don't have cars old enough to need those things anymore.

 

[JAFO]

Look on ebay for the old time engine analyzer, like sold by Sears. I bought one back in the 70's from Sears and still have it, plus I found another cheap on Ebay as a spare. Has tach, dwell, voltage and amps as I remember. You hook it all up using supplied cables to the plug wire, distributor, alternator. Gives you all the info you need for doing a tune up.

I made sure when I installed my high volume oil pump I dumped some oil in it, so it would be wet when it started turning. But I would expect the fact it is submerged in the oil pan all is wet. I have always used a variable speed drill to prime. Maybe the old tale of not using a drill is for the very old drills that just go ON and OFF, not variable. Anyone remember those? My dad had one I used back in the 70's. Wow was variable speed really something when it came along. I guess my dad was too cheap to buy one and kept using a very old all metal drill.

Here is one of the engine analyzers like I have....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEARS-CRAFT...:g:odAAAOSw3mpXLyq2&item=121980398073&vxp=mtr

 

[deltabronco]

Thanks for the info guys, you have been a big help. Hopefully ill be ready to crank her up this monday. It will be the first time in 11 yrs.