Pro Flo- where does the stock heater valve go now?

[PDQ]

For those running Pro-Flo, where/ how did you run your heater valve? Or what concessions did you make for it due to the fuel rails on the manifold?

Thanks as always.

 

[DirtDonk]

Is there no longer a facility for the elbow fitting on the top of the manifold with the pro flow? I wouldn’t think they would’ve eliminated that just to accommodate their induction design. It’s generally such an integral part of all FORD 302s that you would think that they would design in a way to attach the heater hose.

 

[PDQ]

Hey Paul, my bad for maybe not painting the right picture. Im talking about the valve that controls the flow into the heater core. Since the new set up has a fuel rail and wiring running roughly above the manifold bolts, and as the valve used to kind of just set between the valve cover and the intake, that space taken up now so Im wondering if guys are just sitting it on top of the fuel rail or if there's a cleaner solution that I just haven't figured out yet.

 

[DirtDonk]

That’s actually what I thought you were talking about. But I thought the reason for the question was maybe they relocated or eliminated the port where the hose goes on the top of the manifold.
If it’s there like normal, I don’t think there’s a huge issue as long as you just follow the usual rules.
Connect the valve to the cable and the cable then dictates the range of motion that you can put it through.
Move it slightly outboard of the fuel rails, essentially laying it over the valve cover (I think), most likely. Then attach hoses of the correct length.
It no longer has to be up by the throttle body, or right on top of the intake. That’s just where FORD put it because the upper heater hose was routed next to the old mechanical choke spring.
Before 73 there was no electrical connection so the heater hose was one of the heating mechanisms. That’s no longer required in your case, so put the valve wherever it fits appropriately for the cable.

In the meantime, got a picture of your engine layout? I know there are pictures of Pro flows around, but be nice to see yours.

 

[PDQ]

That’s actually what I thought you were talking about. But I thought the reason for the question was maybe they relocated or eliminated the port where the hose goes on the top of the manifold.
If it’s there like normal, I don’t think there’s a huge issue as long as you just follow the usual rules.
Connect the valve to the cable and the cable then dictates the range of motion that you can put it through.
Move it slightly outboard of the fuel rails, essentially laying it over the valve cover (I think), most likely. Then attach hoses of the correct length.
It no longer has to be up by the throttle body, or right on top of the intake. That’s just where FORD put it because the upper heater hose was routed next to the old mechanical choke spring.
Before 73 there was no electrical connection so the heater hose was one of the heating mechanisms. That’s no longer required in your case, so put the valve wherever it fits appropriately for the cable.

In the meantime, got a picture of your engine layout? I know there are pictures of Pro flows around, but be nice to see yours.

Thanks Paul. I liked when the valve kind of tucked in between the valve cover and the manifold to just blend in a little better, but as you can see, due to the fuel rail and the injector harness which isn't even in yet, it seems like I would have to do as you mention where the valve now kind of sits on top of the valve cover which just doesn't look as clean as I would have liked. I was just wondering if there were other trick options out there for the valve placement, or if another Pro Flo user had any pics, or any other ideas?

Let me know if these don't help with what you were asking for.

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks for the pics. I bet if you turned the fitting just another couple of degrees, that hose would lay between the intake manifold, and the inside of the fuel rail just nice.
That might put the valve at a slightly awkward position, or it might not. Definitely worth the experiment.
It doesn’t look like it would be too bad from the pics.

 

[DirtDonk]

What air cleaner will you be running? Do you know yet?

 

[DirtDonk]

Also, if that doesn’t work out, you can actually lay the valve up against the firewall, and then route the hoses around the entrance to the front.
Or, you can get one of the black plastic valves with the reverse flow and tack it up in the line on the firewall
I’ll try to find some pictures of mine. Maybe 904bronco will see this and post up a picture of one of the ones he’s done.

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and I forgot to mention. If the hose does look like it will fit up there and put the valve in a workable location, you could use the throttlebody bolts and fabricate some sheet metal clamps of some kind, or maybe even find something off the shelf, to use as holders, or hose clamps if you will, to hold things tight.

 

[ba123]

and also assuming this is the stock heater core that mounts to the firewall and the in/out in the engine compartment so can't be inside the cab right? Don't really remember that part of the stock stuff so asking to be sure. The Vintage Air heater valve is inside the cab.

You can put the valve anywhere you want inline of the heater hose feed from the pump to the core. So, if it cannot be hidden inside the cab, why can't you run enough heater hose to hide it behind the intake/block? Put the thing anywhere it'll fit and be hidden. And if that stock cable restricts you, get a Vintage Air electric one or some other aftermarket.

Here is the VA one:
https :// vintageair . com / servo - heater - valve - re - fit - kit - with - control - knob - and - pod /

And another from Tom's slightly less money:
https://tomsoffroad.com/products/66...wD1z4JxDkHvuXqxx1m9dY78Uxfg5XMuhoC6U8QAvD_BwE

 

[Johnnyb]

There's already a lot going on on top of the PF4 intake manifold. I ran my heater hoses over the alternator to the passenger side fender well. Unfortunately this puts the valve out of reach of the heater control cable, at least the stock cable. I've been looking for a solution ever since so I don't have to open the hood every time I want to turn the heater on or off.

-JB

 

[EPB72]

There's already a lot going on on top of the PF4 intake manifold. I ran my heater hoses over the alternator to the passenger side fender well. Unfortunately this puts the valve out of reach of the heater control cable, at least the stock cable. I've been looking for a solution ever since so I don't have to open the hood every time I want to turn the heater on or off.

-JB

maybe make up a bell crank and run a second cable ,,, ,, but thinking could make some kind of bracket to support heater valve in near stock position and get creative with some moulded heater hose/s

 

[ba123]

If you want good hose you can form, I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SYPXDG8/?tag=classicbroncos-20

but I do not trust the rubber ends it comes with and use silicone hoses from HPS which are pricey but worth it imo. They have a good selection of reducers as well which have been great for me.

Here is their site but you can find some on Summit and Amazon sometimes for a better deal:
https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/...-coolant-tube-reinforced-hose-radiator-heater

 

[PDQ]

Paul, round open element standard filter as of now; pics don't quite do it justice as the valve won't squeeze in there even if rotated; any pics of one mounted to the firewall would be appreciated;

Johnnyb- ok thank you, I feel better knowing I'm not crazy here, and with the Explorer front dress, I was looking at having to run at least one hose over/ around the alternator as well, so your set up makes sense

Ben- you may have a winner with the electric valve. I don't love the look of that knob but if I can maybe adapt their control to the stock knob, that may be the best bet and one less cable to fish when the dash goes back in.....

 

[ba123]

you might be able to put the control through the dash with a stock bezel and knob and make it just look stock.

Or find another that would work.