Project: 76, Orange Special Decor

[gnsteam]

On the round trip to Elkhorn. I did have an issue come up with the Bronco. About five miles from the event site, in city traffic. I took off from a stop light but this time the transmission did not want to up shift. It never did shift until I down shifted from drive to second. The same was true going to third even after shifting back to drive. It finally shifted to third after pressing the O/D bypass button. This issued countinued for the remainder of the days trip. I checked the fluid level once I got to the event and it was full and the fluid looked in great condition.
Today after doing some transmission troubleshooting research. I removed the shift lever position, and OSS sensors to test them out. During the removal, I did not see any loose plugs or damaged to the wiring harness. Using an ohm meter, I test the two sensors and they tested good according to my research. So I put it all back together. Check the fluid again after warming everything up to temp. And went for a test drive. It drove perfectly fine, solid timely shifts up and down. I hope it's fixed. I sure hate issues like this, when you fix something and you don't know what you fixed.
Time will tell on this one. After today drive the odometer rolled over to 200 miles.

 

[ntsqd]

If this were an AOD I'll say to check your TV adjustment. No idea about any others.

 

[Bruners4]

If a transmission sensor 'sees' something like a slipping torque converter clutch, it will go into limp mode and set a code. I'm not sure if the ECU will flash the OD lockout light if in transmission limp mode. Also, if the TPS is not reading, transmission shifting is affected. I would start with checking to see if a code was set and then check the TPS voltage at idle and then watch the voltage sweep through its range of motion. We had it set to 0.99 at idle. Maybe it came loose and not connected to the throttle shaft?

 

[gnsteam]

If a transmission sensor 'sees' something like a slipping torque converter clutch, it will go into limp mode and set a code. I'm not sure if the ECU will flash the OD lockout light if in transmission limp mode. Also, if the TPS is not reading, transmission shifting is affected. I would start with checking to see if a code was set and then check the TPS voltage at idle and then watch the voltage sweep through its range of motion. We had it set to 0.99 at idle. Maybe it came loose and not connected to the throttle shaft?

Hi Dave, sorry for the delayed reply. I'm not sure if it went into limp mode. And I did not see any flashing of the O/D lockout light. After messing with the OSS and shift position sensors. The transmission has been working fine again. So I think the TPS is OK. If I need to, how do I test and see the Voltage at the TPS? I remember seeing the 0.99v on your laptop.

This Sunday, Paula and I will be at the 45th All Makes Auto & Truck Show. Located at the SCC campus from 8am - 4pm. Bombers Garage is one of the sponsors and we may be parked in their booth.

 

[gnsteam]

This week I have been working on the hidden winch install. Figuring out the heavy wire cable routing and the placement of the winch controller relocation. After finalizing the controller location. I made a mounting plate to attach the controller and cut off switch. To the drivers side inner fender. Pictures to follow, after the paint dries and I get to mounting things up. I also had to order an additional 15 feet of 2 guage cable to make longer cables for the controller relocation. I built the new cables. Wrapping each cable in plastic loom a Tesa tape. Here are a few pictures of the cables connected at the winch. Routing them under the end cover and existing the opening at the ground connection point on the winch. Routing it out this side. Made for a cleaner look and I was able to utilize the cover that was provided in the relocation kit.

Everything is now ready for the final install. More to come.

 

[gnsteam]

Today I finished the winch install. The first picture shows the pre-existing holes in the inner fender. I added
#10 riv-nuts and made 3, 1/4" thick, plastic washer to go around the riv-nuts. I elevated the mounting plate off the fender, because the inner fender is not flat. It has a factory crease, at 45 degrees in it. The fallowed the factory brake booster assembly.

The next two pictures, show the 1/4" aluminum mounting plate, with additional #10 tapped holes in it, for mounting the relocation box, cut-off switch and cable clamp.

Heres a couple more pictures of the relocation box and cable routing.

The Badlands winch line, end loop, originally had a steel loop with the rope going through and round it. I gripped it in the milling machine and cut it away. That way I could attach the end of the winch line to the Yankum flair lead. It was a lot of work with installing and removing the winch several times. To make modifications and lay thing out. Overall, I'm pleased with how it turned out.

 

[Yeller]

FYI making a new loop is not difficult. Simple tools, sharp scissors or razor knife, a 3/8” or 1/4” x 12” extension and a roll of electrical tape. After you’ve done a few it takes under 10 minutes. Depending on how the original loop was made you can unweave them with the rope still on the drum if they did a locking bremal (sp?) you will need to have the rope off the drum or cut the rope, I typically cut it. Lots of videos on how to do that.

I learned the extension trick from Alan at Yankum in his videos. A fid is easier but most everyone has an extension.

 

[gnsteam]

FYI making a new loop is not difficult. Simple tools, sharp scissors or razor knife, a 3/8” or 1/4” x 12” extension and a roll of electrical tape. After you’ve done a few it takes under 10 minutes. Depending on how the original loop was made you can unweave them with the rope still on the drum if they did a locking bremal (sp?) you will need to have the rope off the drum or cut the rope, I typically cut it. Lots of videos on how to do that.

I learned the extension trick from Alan at Yankum in his videos. A fid is easier but most everyone has an extension.

Hi Yeller, thanks for the advice. Now that I have a winch, I had better get more educated in its care, repairs and safe usage.

 

[gnsteam]

On Thursday, with help of 3 other gentlemen. We removed the top.

And placed it into this fixture. So that I can insulate and install the headliner. I will be using the ABS plastic headliner sold through Jeff's Bronco Graveyard.

Yesterday, I picked up the rear quarter interior panels from the upholster. And did a test fit. The upholster is still working on the door panels.

 

[SLOWnEASY]

I had the upholsterer add foam and fabric to my roof liner like all modern cars have these days. It deadened more of the road noise and it was well worth the cost.

 

[DirtDonk]

That solution works great. I added sheets of Ensolite camping pad foam glued to the roof on my '71. Then the factory headliner over that.
Not as effective as the more modern solutions, but better than the tin-can effect!

Paul

 

[Teal68]

Stunning looking!

 

[green61bug]

This is looking good!!

 

[gnsteam]

Thanks all, for the suggestions and compliments. Slowleak, I did consider having the headliner covered. But I decided to leave it as is. The headliner ABS plastic with a grain texture to it and it looked pretty good in an other Bronco that I seen it installed. I also bought this Siliss sound damping material, with a layer of foam insulation.

And a friend, gave me this leftover roll of insulation material. That he use in his van interior project.

I'm going to get started on the top this afternoon. More to come.

 

[gnsteam]

I finally had an opportunity, to work on the project today. It, has been a full three weeks of attending to family needs.

I have been chasing a shifting issue that comes and goes with 4r70w. The suspected issue being a bad throttle position sensor. So today with the use of a multimeter, it was confirmed. Idle voltage at the output wire was .38 - .42 volts. And it stayed there throughout the opening of the throttle. So a run to the parts store was in order. After installing the new sensor I took it for test drive and all was well.

Next up was working on the headliner. The top is off the Bronco and mounted to a fixture. To support it upside-down so I can work on it. I'm using the ABS liner, sold through Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. The liner has 1/4" pre-drilled holes around the perimeter and at the rear crossmember top support. But only a few of the holes match up to the original holes in the top. So I decided to drill out the holes that do match up. And drill new holes at the pre-drilled locations. And then I installed #10 nutserts all the way around the top and at the crossmember. Once I'm done with installing the insulation. I will use #10 SS button head cap screws to attach the liner. Fitment wise, I ended up with a wider gap between the front and rear liner. So the factory headliner bow is to narrow to cover this gap. Which Is fine. I don’t love the fitment of the bow anyway. So an alternative support cover will have to be fabricated. Here are a few pictures of the progress.

 

[gnsteam]

Some more progress was made on the headliner this week. I needed to fabricate a new headliner support. To cover the gap between the front and rear sections. I used an 1/8"×2"×53" piece of aluminum to cover the gap. Both ends of the piece were bent over a tire on my snowblower and a piece of 6" diameter pipe. You gotta get creative and use what you got. I then machined out of aluminum, two, mirror imaged, end caps. For each side of the top to tie the pieces together. The cover support and the ABS liner is fastened using 10-24 nutserts in the top. I'm going to paint the aluminum satin black and attach everything with black, button head flange bolts.

Next up, will be pulling the liner out. To install sound and heat insulation.

 

[.94 OR]

Any concern about the edges of the ABS flaring out between the attaching bolts?
Double sided tape between holes when final assembly?

 

[gnsteam]

I like your suggestion. I am concerned with that possibility. I may even make aluminum cover straps for the whole perimeter. I did make measurements of the lengths and hole spacing.

 

[Teal68]

I like your suggestion. I am concerned with that possibility. I may even make aluminum cover straps for the whole perimeter. I did make measurements of the lengths and hole spacing.

Looking good! I like your idea of alum. strips wether you need them or not. Would be a nice detail.

 

[.94 OR]

Slide this up behind the exiting panel and mark where to put your holes?
3/32" comes in black anodized even.
https://orangealuminum.com/shop-all/edge-trims-finishing-profiles/edge-trims/