Project Long Horse

[jmhend]

Nothing worth reporting. My project hasn't even made it into Ind4x's shop.
I'd take it back and do it all myself, but my garage is full with a clients project (Project Okinawa / Imported Toyota HZJ73), I don't even have room to take it back right now. The Hi Steer D60 knuckles are mixed up with the project too, which is also stalled out at the moment. They are cast and ready for machining, including a custom cast fixture to hold it for the first op.
The fixture holds the knuckle face parallel to the table, has three points of contact to square & center it and three support surfaces plus one jack screw.
The fixture is designed for a 5 axis machining center, bolts to the T-slots and fixes the knuckle bore concentric with the trunnion platten.

These knuckles are going to be bad ass once they are done.

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Looking good man.

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[Hinmaton]

So, I started the project on Jan 1 of 2021 and made huge headway through mid year and then a unique opportunity presented itself. I worked out a trade on a some product development= I reverse engineer a 2005 SD60 knuckle, re-design it for hi-steer, design the casting, make patterns, then make the castings, the other party works on my Bronco suspension hour for hour, in the end we both own 50% of the IP. They buy castings from me at cost, get them machined and take them to market. I retain my half of the IP and get my suspension completed, they get all the profit from selling the product.
I completed my end of the bargain plus helped with getting the machining figured. They drug their feet and had my Bronco for 18 weeks, then bailed and I had to go get my Bronco.

In the meantime, I had taken on another truck project to raise some capital (90’s Toyota HZJ73) which was a complete rebuild of the bodywork, plus full cage, and sliders. It didn’t leave my shop until just before Christmas.

So- January 2022 and I finally have my Bronco back in my garage and I’m back on track!

I built a 609 Front and am building a 609 rear to match, bought a Duff DIY 4-link kit, it had some issues and I chose to modify it rather than wait for a replacement.

I’ve worked myself into a few corners, welded and re-welded a few things. The toughest thing thus far has been the coilover placement, it’s hard to plan for them spatially without having the coils and tires on, but with the coils and tires on there is zero space to work.
It’s been a bit of a struggle, but I think I got it.

But the 4 link is fully welded in and all before February 1.

Hh


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[stupidboy]

I love pictures!!! You,re doing a great job! Where are you located??

 

[Hinmaton]

I love pictures!!! You,re doing a great job! Where are you located??

In Virginia-

 

[Yeller]

Looking really good! keep after it and you'll be done and on the trail before you know it.

 

[jmhend]

So, I started the project on Jan 1 of 2021 and made huge headway through mid year and then a unique opportunity presented itself. I worked out a trade on a some product development= I reverse engineer a 2005 SD60 knuckle, re-design it for hi-steer, design the casting, make patterns, then make the castings, the other party works on my Bronco suspension hour for hour, in the end we both own 50% of the IP. They buy castings from me at cost, get them machined and take them to market. I retain my half of the IP and get my suspension completed, they get all the profit from selling the product.
I completed my end of the bargain plus helped with getting the machining figured. They drug their feet and had my Bronco for 18 weeks, then bailed and I had to go get my Bronco.

In the meantime, I had taken on another truck project to raise some capital (90’s Toyota HZJ73) which was a complete rebuild of the bodywork, plus full cage, and sliders. It didn’t leave my shop until just before Christmas.

So- January 2022 and I finally have my Bronco back in my garage and I’m back on track!

I built a 609 Front and am building a 609 rear to match, bought a Duff DIY 4-link kit, it had some issues and I chose to modify it rather than wait for a replacement.

I’ve worked myself into a few corners, welded and re-welded a few things. The toughest thing thus far has been the coilover placement, it’s hard to plan for them spatially without having the coils and tires on, but with the coils and tires on there is zero space to work.
It’s been a bit of a struggle, but I think I got it.

But the 4 link is fully welded in and all before February 1.

Hh


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Looks awesome man. I am super happy that you're able to get the machining worked out and love the rear strut mounts, I for the life of me couldn't figure out how you were going to use the rear spring perch. It is a perfect idea.

 

[Hinmaton]

Took a lot of back and forth but I have the Coilover mount in and sorted, I also fitted up one of the new tires and wheels. Finally have a set of BFG Reds! And now that I have them, they seem a little small for the new wheelbase…
Meh, it’ll be fine, right?
I have one tiny bit of inner bed sheet metal that just kisses the lugs, other than that, I think I could fit 42’s.

Those PBR’s really are massive. I’ll miss them a little.


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[Hinmaton]

I did have to pull my filler neck in order to make this work, anyone have suggestions on how to solve this? A shorter one that would fit under the side marker or I could just leave tucked in the fender well?

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[jmhend]

A few thoughts….

1- leave it an tuck it up as much as possible, maybe even into the bed section a little.

2- use the front one and run the filler hose on top of the frame rail?

3- pull the tank and run a fuel cell.

 

[Yeller]

I have mine on the inside of the wheel well. Hard to remove the cap with a tree or rock. Used a later model filler with a screw on cap, no issues with leaks or odor. I don’t have a pic handy but made a box that fits it vertically at the back inside corner of the wheel well.

Reds are like cocaine, once you have them you gotta have more LOL

 

[Hinmaton]

I have mine on the inside of the wheel well. Hard to remove the cap with a tree or rock. Used a later model filler with a screw on cap, no issues with leaks or odor. I don’t have a pic handy but made a box that fits it vertically at the back inside corner of the wheel well.

Reds are like cocaine, once you have them you gotta have more LOL

Well, if you get a chance to snap a photo, I'd love to see that.

 

[jmhend]

What are you going to do for a top?

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[Yeller]

Here you go, as requested I should mention I don’t have factory wheel wells either, tires tuck to the body line and are 4” back from stock, wheel base is 100” +4” front and rear.

 

[Hinmaton]

Here you go, as requested I should mention I don’t have factory wheel wells either, tires tuck to the body line and are 4” back from stock, wheel base is 100” +4” front and rear.

Oh that’s clever. Thanks


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[Hinmaton]

What are you going to do for a top?

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I had planned on a custom soft top from BC Broncos, but they all of a sudden stopped returning my emails. So I’ll not run a top, maybe run an aluminum skid lid and that’s it.


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[Hinmaton]

Rear suspension completed. Coilover towers installed, just need to install the limit straps. This is ride height with 4” of up travel and 10” down. Second photo is full stuff with axles straight, third is full stuff at max articulation.
This ride height is 3” lower than my previous ride height.

[mention]Yeller [/mention] I need some help figuring out bump stops and ride heights:
I set the bump stops at full articulation, the bump stops at minimum shock travel. But when I set the axles level and bring it to full bump, I have around 1-1/2” of shock travel remaining.
This is not a go fast truck, so full stuff while the axles are level will be the exception. I will probably see full articulation, but this will happen at low speeds, so damage to the shock from slamming while fully stuffed and fully extended seems a bit unrealistic.
So where do I set the bumps? At full stuff level I appears to have a ton of room. It’s only at max flex steer that the tire even gets close.

Hh


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[jmhend]

Two things…

1- I think your pictures are out of order.
2- Just fir kicks what if you added a 1.5” adapter/ spacer yo the struts to allow full stuff?

This would allow your struts to fully operate. If / when you have that established then I would set your bump stops. Just a thought

 

[Hinmaton]

Two things…

1- I think your pictures are out of order.
2- Just fir kicks what if you added a 1.5” adapter/ spacer yo the struts to allow full stuff?

This would allow your struts to fully operate. If / when you have that established then I would set your bump stops. Just a thought

1. Good catch / fixed?
2. The issue is not that I can’t get full use of the travel, it’s a question of where to set the bump stops, full stuff level or full stuff all flexed out?


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[Yeller]

You never want the shock to fully bottom out so you want them set at full flex. At full flex and flexible stops I leave 1/2-3/4” of compression and in the shock. If using an air bump 3/16-1/4” with the bump compressed. Even though it’s not a go fast truck things do happen fast. Trust me, when scooting along doesn’t hurt you will go faster, may not be 60mph but go from 2mph to 6mph. If it feels smooth and controlled it will just happen. Couple trips out and you’ll be thinking why are these guys so slow lol

 

[jmhend]

I agree with Steve. Set the lower limit straps about 3/4” before full drop and the same on the compression. Just my thoughts