pros cons 1330 vs 1310 driveshafts

[price209]

So I'm rebuilding a set of full widths and am going with a 4r70w/np205 combo for now. My full width 9" has a 1330 yoke and my hp44 has a 1310. My 205 has 1310s but they appear to be non cv yokes. So if I am correct about the 205 yokes I will need 3 new yokes no matter what and because of the new lift and drivetrain mods I am buying new driveshafts. My question is should I go 1330s or 1310s?? How much stronger are 1330s, will I run into clearence issues with the larger 1330s especially on the front with the 4r70w? Or is there something else I should go with and buy all 4 new yokes? I would like to keep everything the same but might consider 1310s up front and 130 in the rear if there are benefits.

 

[welndmn]

I'll start by saying I am not a 1330 fan.
A 1330 is a hybrid of the 1310 and 1350.
It uses the same cap as a 1310, yet the wider cross of a 1350.
With a wider leverage point than a 1310, a lot of us believe the 1330 is weaker than a 1310.
If you need to buy new, just buy 1350 yokes and enjoy.

 

[Broncobowsher]

The 1330 is stronger than a 1310 simply due to the extra diameter. The pressures in the cap are reduced as the diameter goes up. Going from a 260 to a 297 U-joint in the front axle is a good example of that. A little diameter increase results in large increases in strength.

But I recall that the 1330 CV suffers from an angle issue. The extra diameter binds the CV at a shallower angle.

 

[KyleQ]

Any NP203/205/208 or Atlas will share the same yolk (in Ford flavor anyway) so you don't have to buy new - and I would suggest you either buy Spicer brand yolks or nothing at all and go used.

1310 is fine - I run 1330 on the pinion and 1310 on the t-case on my Bronco with a healthy 351, NP435 and Atlas II with 43" tires and 4.10 gears. You will be find with 1310

 

[price209]

I am not positive, but I believe my NP205 yokes are non-cv, is there a quick and easy way to tell the difference? I bought the case from a guy who said he was running it in a bronco, but I have no documentation of it? It was mated to a 435 when I bought it, but that's the extent of my knowledge on the tcase.

 

[KyleQ]

If they are out of a Bronco they are CV style - both of my yolks on my Atlas are off a NP205 or NP203.

 

[driveshafter]

1310 vs 1330

So I'm rebuilding a set of full widths and am going with a 4r70w/np205 combo for now. My full width 9" has a 1330 yoke and my hp44 has a 1310. My 205 has 1310s but they appear to be non cv yokes. So if I am correct about the 205 yokes I will need 3 new yokes no matter what and because of the new lift and drivetrain mods I am buying new driveshafts. My question is should I go 1330s or 1310s?? How much stronger are 1330s, will I run into clearence issues with the larger 1330s especially on the front with the 4r70w? Or is there something else I should go with and buy all 4 new yokes? I would like to keep everything the same but might consider 1310s up front and 130 in the rear if there are benefits.

i agree with using 1350 all the way around now adays the (my supplyers) make conversion flanges and yokes for about anything and if they dont make it i can. with the 1350 flange style you can run1330 1350 and now 1410 series ujoint configurations depending how much lift and how much power your running i make a 1310 1330 style that gives you higher angle than the 1310 and the 1330 using stock transfercase yokes and whatever ujoint series you have for the dif if your angles are extreem and you want a ballsy driveshaft the 1350 is your best bet i hog out the stop[s that hinder the flex and make it fully servicable with greese fitings.they come with a 4 1/4 bolt patern with a 2" pilot you have to buy the adapter flange but thoes are not to expencive (125)each call mke with any questions and advice that i ,ight be able to help you with

 

[driveshafter]

I am not positive, but I believe my NP205 yokes are non-cv, is there a quick and easy way to tell the difference? I bought the case from a guy who said he was running it in a bronco, but I have no documentation of it? It was mated to a 435 when I bought it, but that's the extent of my knowledge on the tcase.

we get yokes that are cv style

 

[reynard101]

From what (little) I know, the CV yokes have a little bit more material between the cap and bolt hole (lower Left is 1330 CV). The non CV yokes have have almost no material between the cap and U-bolt hole (Upper left is 1330 non-CV).

Upper Right is 1310 non CV U-bolt (off a Ford 9").
Lower Right is 1350 Non CV (for a Dana 44 - strap type, threaded holes).

 

[driveshafter]

cv non cv

the reason the non cv style is so close ic the ubolts need to be tight with no flex with a cv style you got meat there on both sides center kit and yoke this also alows more angle to be given with less restriction

 

[price209]

the reason the non cv style is so close ic the ubolts need to be tight with no flex with a cv style you got meat there on both sides center kit and yoke this also alows more angle to be given with less restriction

Can you mount a CV driveshaft to a non cv yoke? What would happen?

 

[driveshafter]

driveshafts

no it wont fit

 

[Broncobowsher]

If you mount a non-CV to a CV yoke the straps are on the center of the needle bearings. Very easy to distort the caps and kill the needles and joint. The traditional U-joint yoke puts the retaining straps more toward the end of the cap.

Another quick spotters guide to CV yokes, the narrow edge is curved (bottom left in the pictures above).
Standard U-joint are more squared off.

You can also measure the spacing between the bolt holes and if it aligns with a CV it is a CV yoke. And if it doesn't...

 

[welndmn]

The 1330 is stronger than a 1310 simply due to the extra diameter. The pressures in the cap are reduced as the diameter goes up. Going from a 260 to a 297 U-joint in the front axle is a good example of that. A little diameter increase results in large increases in strength.

But I recall that the 1330 CV suffers from an angle issue. The extra diameter binds the CV at a shallower angle.

What diameter are you thinking?
A 1330 is the same as a 1310, it just had a larger cross.
Think of a 2x4 peice of wood, it you were loading one that was 1' left my and one that was 2' long, what one would break first?
The one with the increased leverage.

 

[Broncobowsher]

What diameter are you thinking?
A 1330 is the same as a 1310, it just had a larger cross.
Think of a 2x4 peice of wood, it you were loading one that was 1' left my and one that was 2' long, what one would break first?
The one with the increased leverage.

Diameter as in the length between the centerline of rotation and the cap, the size of the cross.

But you have the leverage backwards. Let me try and explain. Take 100 Ft-Lb of torque. It is a relationship between force and distance. 1 pound at 100 feet. 100 pounds at 1 foot. They are both 100 foot pounds.

Lets put that into a couple U-joints. Just to keep the math simple and easy to follow lets make one U-joint with a 2" radius and the other with 3" radius. This would make one 4" diameter and the other 6". I'll even keep the 100 ft-Lb but convert it to in-Lb by multiplying by 12. So 1200 in-Lb into a small U-joint of 2" radius would be 600Lb of pressure on the bearing caps (2x600=1200). But step up to a 3" radius and you only have 400Lb of pressure on the caps (3x400=1200).

Now you 1' and 2' 2x4 example you are keeping the same force on the end of the lever but changing the length. If it were 100 pounds of force the 1' 2x4 would see 100 ft-lbs of torque at the fixed attachment point. The 2' would experience 200 ft-lbs. That is why the 2' is easer to break with the same force. And you just built a stroker engine by adding leverage going into the point of rotation using the same force on the end of the arm.

 

[KyleQ]

Do some reading-
http://www.4xshaft.com/MeasuringGuide_p3.pdf