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Question on reaming knuckles

SpareParts

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 13, 2004
Messages
5,592
My knuckle is wallowed out at the tie rod and was needing a fix.

I searched a little and found out what taper to go with. I talked to my local machine shop and they said they would weld the hole closed with a regular mig and ream the hole out.

I welded the hole shut and drilled out the hole first the tried to ream it out, it won't cut the weld? I used a step bit to start the hole and the reamer will clean the hole but after it is clean it stops cutting. I have tried using the slowest speed on the drill press, 230 rpm. I tried using a hand drill, no luck.

I since have search more and found out to braise the hole shut, I think that the braise would be pretty soft? I could drill the hole out bigger and then braise it closed again.

Any help??

David
 

okorangebrnco

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Nov 25, 2004
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Dang David how did you pull off wallowing out the hole? I would think drilling the hole bigger and brazing it would be the best option and going back from there
 
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SpareParts

SpareParts

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I'm doing this on my tow vehicle. I bought a D60 for the front of my F-350 to change it to 4wd. I did not realize that the one had be wallowed out by PO. I have the heim steering on my Bronco but I don't want that for my DD.

I have the reamer, but it won't cut through the weld?

David
 

broncnaz

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May 22, 2003
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24,341
Thats one of the drawbacks to welding up any oversized holes the weld is harder than the orginal materail. Reamers are basically made to take out small amounts of metal so it may take a little more work take it slow and use a lot of oil to help cut. I'd also consider just going over size and then using BC's bushings to get it back to stock size or just stepping up to f150 or ch#vy rod ends.
Brazing probably would have worked as long as the tie rod stays tight if it gets loose you'll endup in the same boat only quicker.
 
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SpareParts

SpareParts

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Yes, I drilled the hole all the way through and then tried to ream it out. I have tried to use a Dewalt 1/2 hand drill and also a drill press. The reamer just spins and takes very little metal. I has reamed the hole a little, just not much.

This is a D60 for my F-350, I need the correct taper so I can use the stock F-350 tie rods.


David
 
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SpareParts

SpareParts

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Took it to my local machine shop and they said the weld was extremely hard. They had a hard time getting it reamed but got it done for $60, ouch! Lesson learned, they was going to do the whole thing for $60 when I asked them. I also owe my friend a reamer, any one had their reamer sharpened?

David
 

fordtrucks4ever

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You needed to heat the area up red hot and let it slowly cool down. Then it would easily cut. Mig welding is usually soft except if cooled down too fast.
 
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SpareParts

SpareParts

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The machine shop told me this after I had already done it. Lesson learned, I guess just an expensive lesson, could be worse.

David
 

bronko69er

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Another option for the future would be to buy one of the tapered bushings and ream out the wallow untill the bushing fits.
 
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SpareParts

SpareParts

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Are the tapered bushings taper the same on both sides? It would have to be a bushing that would go from a Chevy taper to a Ford taper. They both use a 7.14 deg. taper, the Chevy it just deeper. I looked for those about a year ago and never found them.

David
 

blubuckaroo

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I can't believe you're doing this stuff! Wallowing holes, welding and brazing knuckles, heating the knuckles to change the hardness of the steel? You're probably driving your home made steering systems on the same streets as my family. Your work probably won't be inspected until you have an accident. Why don't you just buy another set of knuckles? I think it would be less money than a reamer and the machine shop bill.
 

bronko69er

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Messages
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Are the tapered bushings taper the same on both sides? It would have to be a bushing that would go from a Chevy taper to a Ford taper. They both use a 7.14 deg. taper, the Chevy it just deeper. I looked for those about a year ago and never found them.

David

I believe they have the same taper both inside and out.
BC and WH sell tapered bushings, maybe others.
As far as I know, most automotive ball joints use an 1.5"/ft taper.
 
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SpareParts

SpareParts

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I can't believe you're doing this stuff! Wallowing holes, welding and brazing knuckles, heating the knuckles to change the hardness of the steel? You're probably driving your home made steering systems on the same streets as my family. Your work probably won't be inspected until you have an accident. Why don't you just buy another set of knuckles? I think it would be less money than a reamer and the machine shop bill.

It's not homemade steering, not that I couldn't do a better job, I think the homemade heim setup is far better and safer than most ball and socket type tierod end steering that is OEM. I did not wallow out the hole, if you would read the whole post you would know that. I have tried to find a knuckle locally and have had no luck. Yes it may have change the hardness of the knuckle but I don't see it to cause any problem.

I you have a problem with people modifying steering or like wise, this is not the site to be on. Almost everybody in this site had changed their vehicle "Bronco" or whatever. Anytime you lift a vehicle you are modifying the steering and the way the vehicle performs. If you are not a mechanical engineer or can provide proof that what I'm doing is unsafe, please don't reply to this thread.

Thank you

David
 

fordtrucks4ever

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Loc.
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I can't believe you're doing this stuff! Wallowing holes, welding and brazing knuckles, heating the knuckles to change the hardness of the steel? You're probably driving your home made steering systems on the same streets as my family. Your work probably won't be inspected until you have an accident. Why don't you just buy another set of knuckles? I think it would be less money than a reamer and the machine shop bill.

If you like keeping your head stuck down a hole in the ground, thats fine. If you have a question about something, then ask. But dont knock someone else just because you dont know how to do something. Heating a part up after being welded relieves stress. A very simple procedure to normalize the metal so it wont fatigue and prematurely fail.
 

blubuckaroo

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How much of this stuff is DOT approved? I have no problem using a properly engineered steering system. There are plenty of good aftermarket ones out there. Then again I've seen too many welded drag links and pitman arms driving on the road. Like I said "HOME MADE".
 

airman

Contributor
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Nov 26, 2003
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I found this in a secret engineering textbook: "Discredit your opposing arguments by illuminating his lack of sheepskin. After that everything you say is truth and everything they say is irrelevant. Sleep well for you are the chosen one." "also see, if that fails ask to see govt. approval stamp"

I have since lost the textbook but I sometimes have visions where an old bearded man smoking a pipe in a corduroy jacket and white turtleneck repeats this over and over again. It must be true.

I hate to be such a jerk but I go through this with my uncles and cousins all the time. I have even witnessed them being completely wrong about something and after being corrected, they deny they ever held the other opinion in the first place.
 
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