Questions on Chevy Tie Rod Under on 77

[saxman]

I finally have some time to install my chevy 1-ton tie rod set up. Wanted some clarification before I ditch my inverted Y setup. I have a 77 and a 2.5” suspension lift. I am going to go “under” since I do not wheel it that hard and the clearance issues with a 2.5” lift on a ’77 chassis.

Are any other mods or parts needed besides just reaming out the knuckles and pitman arm and inserting the drag link and TRE’s? I have read that reaming the pitman arm off the truck is suggested but not mandatory. I did not know if I needed to put the inserts into the knuckles of if the knuckles can just receive the TRE’s as they are. I also know that I might have wheel clearance issues so I am going to see if I can get by with the .25” spacers for the wheels. My backspacing is stock.

Any other thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[broncnaz]

you wont need inserts for the knuckle since you will have to ream them out for the TRE's to fit. Since you have to ream the knuckles anyway I would do the TRO. All reaming can be done on the truck just have to be careful. go slow and check fitment as you go.
You can trim the lower trac bar bolt if you have clearance issues some people do some dont.

 

[blubuckaroo]

I just put a "T" style steering set-up on my '77. I put it in the under position. I can't see an advantage in going over since the tie rods are higher than the axle and the ends are completely inside the rims where they are fully protected.

 

[70_Steve]

I finally have some time to install my chevy 1-ton tie rod set up. Wanted some clarification before I ditch my inverted Y setup. I have a 77 and a 2.5” suspension lift. I am going to go “under” since I do not wheel it that hard and the clearance issues with a 2.5” lift on a ’77 chassis.

Thanks!

I have a 76 Dana44 (should be the same knuckles) in my Bronco, and originally installed it with the t-style steering links. The tie rod ends were so close to the inside of the wheels that I couldn't run standard wheel weights. This is with a 3 3/4" backspace wheel. If you do the Chebby 1 ton conversion, be very, very sure the tie-rod ends will clear the wheel. I installed (am in the process of installing) 79 F150 knuckles to get around this problem.

Also, I don't believe you could go TRO with only a 2 1/2" suspension lift. TRO will put the links about 3" higher, which would put them higher than the stock configuration.

 

[saxman]

I have a 76 Dana44 (should be the same knuckles) in my Bronco, and originally installed it with the t-style steering links. The tie rod ends were so close to the inside of the wheels that I couldn't run standard wheel weights. This is with a 3 3/4" backspace wheel. If you do the Chebby 1 ton conversion, be very, very sure the tie-rod ends will clear the wheel. I installed (am in the process of installing) 79 F150 knuckles to get around this problem.

Also, I don't believe you could go TRO with only a 2 1/2" suspension lift. TRO will put the links about 3" higher, which would put them higher than the stock configuration.

Yes, from what I have read, 2.5" lift does not allow for a lot of wiggle room. I am not rock crawling in this rig, so, I don't see my tie rod getting stuck on something. I was planning on buying the .25" spacers for my wheels. Not a big fan of spacers, but, I think I can get away with the small ones. If I need a bigger spacer, I will have to modify the knuckle and use those later style knuckles like you suggested.

 

[saxman]

I just put a "T" style steering set-up on my '77. I put it in the under position. I can't see an advantage in going over since the tie rods are higher than the axle and the ends are completely inside the rims where they are fully protected.

People like the TRO because it gets your tie rod out of the way of big obstacles and gives you more clearance.

 

[broncnaz]

While I run 78/79 knuckles I did the TRO with a 2.5in lift no issues there. I know the 78/79 knuckles mounted the tie rod about 1" lower than stock 73 knuckles. not sure about the height differance in 76/77 knuckles. but there are a few advantages to doing this you gain clearance amd it allows for a flatter drag link angle which helps handling.

 

[ilovemaui]

I installed ruffstuff unders last month. Very pleased with the setup. It takes a little home fab so you'll need a welder,a way to cut the DOM tubing and a reamer.

 

[garberz]

The 76'-77' steering arms, set higher on the knuckles than the earlier versions. Doing TRO is not as critical for clearance with them. It would be real close as to if you'd need spacers or not.

 

[saxman]

Do I need the reamer if I am going under? are the current holes already tapered on my 77?

 

[bmc69]

Do I need the reamer if I am going under? are the current holes already tapered on my 77?

Tapered, yes...but far too small. So you need the reamer to expand them to the larger taper size.

 

[mofoco1]

I just did the 79 knuckle conversion on my 74. I am going to use Ruff Stuff 1 tons, but I am looking into the offset ends, as I have a large diff cover and not sure if it will cause problems with the larger tubing diameter. When I did the last 79 conversion a decade ago my custom rims that were meant for drums were close to the tierod as I was trying to tuck them in as far as I could as I was uncut and I was running 10" wide rims. When I switched to discs I had to get new rims as they would not mount with the stock T-style TREs setup. If memory serves me right I would have had to use too thick a spacer and I didn't want to go there. now with billet spacers I wouldn't care, they just weren't available back then. With the 77 knuckles you are also almost as high as what a TRO with 79 knuckle would gain you as the 79's are way lower. I am not crawling or doing anything that would take out a TR i need to get new ends and I want the extra beefiness the 1 tons afford and at almost the same price as stock replacements, a no brainer in my opinion( not that's it's worth anything;D )......Mo in Clovis, CA