Radiator Choices

[DirtDonk]

Wow! Price is way up.
We’re still selling our Tri-Pass (or triple bypass as I like to call it) for under $400.
Unfortunately, they’re not available with the transmission cooler.
I thought US Radiator was who made our staggered four core, but at that price differential, I’m guessing not. Then again, maybe that’s why I didn’t see it on our site at the moment.
Usually, it’s either price, or lack of regular availability that causes us to stop putting something up on our site.

 

[ntsqd]

Trans cooler isn't available with any of the multi-pass options.

 

[toddz69]

Anybody know what all the different options are, maybe its detailed on the website but haven’t poked around yet.

@lars , have you cut out your inner fenders?

High efficiency is tighter spacing on the cores and higher fin count. Highly recommended.

Todd Z.

 

[ksagis]

Lars has convinced me that I should run the cooling loop through the Rad (yet to be purchased) on my current build. My trans cooler has always been a stand alone, which going down the road, one well placed rock will take you out.
My only concern is that the Rad doesn't become a restrictive point with the 3/8" lines that the 4R70W uses...
US Rad, I have also been told is the best option, but not inexpensive.

Could you and @lars elaborate on this line of thinking? Is it only the rock damage issue or possibly related to stacking another item in front of radiator and partially obstructing air flow?

 

[904Bronco]

One reason is this is how Ford did it in the Explorer, the Rad cooler was primary and the Aux cooler was there for additional cooling. It provides quicker warm up in colder weather from the coolant system. And the Trans fluid, in theory, would stay below 200* degrees, since the thermostat is 192*, provided that you have a good cooling system to begin with.
When I place my stand alone cooler, it is off to the side from the main opening for the Rad. No air flow restrictions created that I can see or have experienced. I like having a back up, but I worried about restricting the flow trans fluid with most Rad/trans coolers only accepting 5/16 lines. And on a road trip to Montana many years ago, my 79 G2 took a rock to the secondary/aux cooler and I was able to bypass it and use the Rad cooler. If all I had was the Aux cooler, I would have been dead on gravel road for who knows how long...

 

[mustanggarage]

i have been running my Ron Davis radiator from wild horses for 5 years and been very happy with it. my bronco has a 408 from blueprint engines dynoed at 480 hp now with dual quad sniper fuel injection. I have an explorer serpentine kit with explorer clutch fan, and so far my engine has never overheated even when it is cruising up and down mainstreet in 100 plus heat. granted I have never had it out rock crawling so I don't know how it would handle that, but so far I have been happy with it.

 

[nvrstuk]

I have had Griffin, Champion, and a few others over all the years. Currently and since 2006 I have been using a 1 inch/1 row aluminum from rock auto (139 bucks)with plastic side tanks and no issues at all. Single electric fan. Matter of fact just installed a PWM controller and now even with the fan barely running I can't get above 187 or so. I am going to have to change my thermostat. I think I put a 180 in last time and will go back to a 192 or so. As we all know every Bronco is different and best I can tell is that if everything else in the system is working as it should then the radiator can do it's thing.

You must be running a 302/5.0 engine correct? Which fan are you running with the PWM? Sounds like a slick setup.

Saying this because cooling something with 500-650 HP like a couple mentioned they have takes a bit more than what you mentioned-although I've never tried that combo on 500+ hp.. Just saying this for a few that might not be into cooling needs as much. Really glad it works so good for ya

 

[nvrstuk]

Could you and @lars elaborate on this line of thinking? Is it only the rock damage issue or possibly related to stacking another item in front of radiator and partially obstructing air flow?

Too high a fin count can cause air flow restrictions AND too many cores can do the same thing... as in "MORE" is not necessarily a good thing for improving cooling in our case.

Remember that later model modular auto's need 1/2" lines whereas the 4r's can use 3/8" lines. Good luck finding an aftermarket radiator builder that makes a Bronco sized radiator with 1/2" tranny cooler lines in it.

Your decision sounds like it's been made and I agree since I've gone thru 3 (on my 4th and it's not the mounting issues) Griffin alum (much larger than stock) radiators that brass is the way to go. I will probably be going US Rad for the next one.

 

[CowboyGrin]

I think someday we’ll all end up running the V6 Explorer radiator with plastic side tanks!
Mounted in their rubber isolation donuts and all…

Any drawbacks to this option? I’m in the process of fabbing one in. Although I’m not all that excited about the plastic tanks, it seems to fit like glove once one gets the bottom bracket geometry nailed down (ask me how I know). I’ve read nothing bad about performance issues but maybe I’ve missed them.

 

[nvrstuk]

I know stockers running the V6 Exploder rad w/o any problems... they will probably be in stock at the local parts store for another 15+ yrs too!

 

[Kalex]

You must be running a 302/5.0 engine correct? Which fan are you running with the PWM? Sounds like a slick setup.

Saying this because cooling something with 500-650 HP like a couple mentioned they have takes a bit more than what you mentioned-although I've never tried that combo on 500+ hp.. Just saying this for a few that might not be into cooling needs as much. Really glad it works so good for ya

I am running a supercharged, stroked 4.6L out of a 1996 mustang(dyno 450+). The radiator is a stock Lincoln Mark VIII with a 1993 Lincoln Mark VIII electric fan. I also have an intercooler that is about the same size as the radiator sitting in front the radiator. The reason I recently decided to try the PWM fan controller is when my fan kicked on at 197 and off at 205(controlled by the EEC) it draws an incredible amount of current all at once. I just redid a lot of my electrical system and wiring so I thought I would try to give this new stuff a break. The "soft start" on that controller is awesome and you don't even know the fan has come on. It may come on at only 10 percent if that is what the cooling needs are at that moment. I am still learning about the whole deal. Then it runs at whatever percentage it needs to to keep the temperature at what you desire for the most part. I am still tweaking that part and then I decided to pull out my transmission so everything is on hold.

 

[nvrstuk]

Sounds like a great setup. I know a half dozen stroker guys running PWM fan's and controllers and they all love them. When I switched over to the Exploder serp setup PWM controllers weren't around yet. I trired a Tauras back in the day and that lasted about 2 days! lol I also remember back in the day when we were worried about winches blocking air flow... course many cars and trucks run what you have with stacked coolers in front of radiators w/o issues... learn as we go.

Is the Mark VIII radiator a '96- same as the engine?

What did you do to fit the oil filter- did you go remote?

 

[Kalex]

Sounds like a great setup. I know a half dozen stroker guys running PWM fan's and controllers and they all love them. When I switched over to the Exploder serp setup PWM controllers weren't around yet. I trired a Tauras back in the day and that lasted about 2 days! lol I also remember back in the day when we were worried about winches blocking air flow... course many cars and trucks run what you have with stacked coolers in front of radiators w/o issues... learn as we go.

Is the Mark VIII radiator a '96- same as the engine?

What did you do to fit the oil filter- did you go remote?

No the Mark VIII radiator is from a 1993, but without looking I think many of the Mark VIII years are the same radiator. I think the "brand" is OSC and it was from Rock auto. It is mainly out of necessity as I have no room for anything bigger up front. 1 inch at the top of the radiator and the fan shroud barely touches one of my grounding wire bolt heads. Left the oil filter in the original Mustang spot. I was using 2 relays to control when my fan came on and now it uses 10 transistors. The controller is fused internally at 250 amps and I have a 40 amp circuit breaker inline as well. Again, all new to me so let me run it awhile and get it off road, in some real heat, etc... to see what I think. In the very little time I have actually used it it seems good. I spoke to Derale and a couple of other manufacturers abut fan controllers and they wouldn't warranty their controllers with the Mark VIII fans, Taurus fans, and I think the contour fans was the other one they told me. Too much amp draw at start up I guess.

 

[lars]

One reason is this is how Ford did it in the Explorer, the Rad cooler was primary and the Aux cooler was there for additional cooling. It provides quicker warm up in colder weather from the coolant system. And the Trans fluid, in theory, would stay below 200* degrees, since the thermostat is 192*, provided that you have a good cooling system to begin with.
When I place my stand alone cooler, it is off to the side from the main opening for the Rad. No air flow restrictions created that I can see or have experienced. I like having a back up, but I worried about restricting the flow trans fluid with most Rad/trans coolers only accepting 5/16 lines. And on a road trip to Montana many years ago, my 79 G2 took a rock to the secondary/aux cooler and I was able to bypass it and use the Rad cooler. If all I had was the Aux cooler, I would have been dead on gravel road for who knows how long...

I plumbed my system the same way Ford did it. I figured a bazillion vehicles, manufactured by a company that probably didn't want to warranty all those transmissions (yes, I know about other issues) probably meant that it was a good way to go. So far, so good.

Doug, I originally used the same square-ish Long(?) cooler you did, but it wasn't up to the task. Transmission temp could easily reach 190° just driving around locally on a hot day. I've since replaced it with a gigantic Mishimoto cooler as recommended by @Yeller, and with the 3 row high efficiency US Radiator I think I've found the sweet spot. If you are at the roundup next week you can see it.

 

[Yeller]

Doug Here’s the chineseum version of the cooler @lars brought up, Mishimoto makes an equivalent. FYI I’m running the chinesium one and been there for 4 years and 50k on the J Truck very happily.

 

[ntsqd]

Kalex, is that the Delta Controls PWM controller that you're using? I've read about them and wanted to try one, but haven't had a project that needed it. If I ever get around to the LoCost project I'll use one there.

James, yours is easy to solve:
The best pump that I know of: https://tiltonracing.com/product/cooler-pumps/ Use this instead for the cooler: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CT4FFXNZ/?tag=classicbroncos-20 replace those odd OEM Ford fittings with these or similar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDPYFN12/?tag=classicbroncos-20
Or, maybe you've seen these? https://www.genosgarage.com/product/transcool-3/transmission-coolers

 

[jamesroney]

Kalex, is that the Delta Controls PWM controller that you're using? I've read about them and wanted to try one, but haven't had a project that needed it. If I ever get around to the LoCost project I'll use one there.

James, yours is easy to solve:
The best pump that I know of: https://tiltonracing.com/product/cooler-pumps/ Use this instead for the cooler: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CT4FFXNZ/?tag=classicbroncos-20 replace those odd OEM Ford fittings with these or similar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDPYFN12/?tag=classicbroncos-20
Or, maybe you've seen these? https://www.genosgarage.com/product/transcool-3/transmission-coolers

I was just poking fun at @lars because he never had any of these issues when he ran a manual trans. I have since deleted that post.

My goal was to use the NV4500 to provide additional cooling capacity by pulling heat out of the radiator and pumping it into the transmission. A transmission "cooler." (NV4500's don't make heat in 4th gear.)

Auto trans people have no sense of humor...

 

[Kalex]

Kalex, is that the Delta Controls PWM controller that you're using? I've read about them and wanted to try one, but haven't had a project that needed it. If I ever get around to the LoCost project I'll use one there.

James, yours is easy to solve:
The best pump that I know of: https://tiltonracing.com/product/cooler-pumps/ Use this instead for the cooler: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CT4FFXNZ/?tag=classicbroncos-20 replace those odd OEM Ford fittings with these or similar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDPYFN12/?tag=classicbroncos-20
Or, maybe you've seen these? https://www.genosgarage.com/product/transcool-3/transmission-coolers

ntsqd, I will attach a few pics of roughly what I did. While I was changing some wiring, etc.. I decided to get rid of an engine bay electrical junction box and add a split fuse block(on the right,pic 2). The reason I attached a pic of my interior switches is because one of them is a "fail safe" switch(pin 6 on the box labeled F/S) that when operated will override the fan controller and turn the fan on to 100 percent. Also you will note I did not use pin 5 on the controller as that is used if you have Air conditioning. I do not. I am not sure of all of the options out when it comes to PWM controllers and if any are better than the others. My research led me to autocoolguy and other than the size of the entire unit(it's big) it seems well made. Industrial is the term I would use for his stuff. There are several options and I just opted for the most heavy duty currently available from him so that way I figure I am covered. You can run multiple fans or just a single(like I am). Certainly not intending to hijack this thread, but I guess this is all cooling related.

 

[nvrstuk]

I was just poking fun at @lars because he never had any of these issues when he ran a manual trans. I have since deleted that post.

My goal was to use the NV4500 to provide additional cooling capacity by pulling heat out of the radiator and pumping it into the transmission. A transmission "cooler." (NV4500's don't make heat in 4th gear.)

Auto trans people have no sense of humor...

Yeah we do! We've got a great sense of humor... now that I run an auto behind one of my strokers I don't have to worry EVER about never making it up that steep soft sand dune because I run a manual or because I never have to worry about not making it across a level field of 3 foot deep, wet slushy snow that turns into a slight incline, because whenever you shift with any of the manual transmissions that we usually have- - you've lost all your rpm, lost all your momentum, and now the auto guys are laughing at you, James! Haha! lol

Just poking fun. But that's why I went auto, and what a difference it has made.
We take care of the heat issues like you guys try to take care of the rear main seal or valley gasket leaks that's leaking on your clutch disc, and we don't have any issues unlike the chatter you clutch guys get because of the contaminated disc!

Have a great day all.

 

[ntsqd]

I was just poking fun at @lars because he never had any of these issues when he ran a manual trans. I have since deleted that post.

My goal was to use the NV4500 to provide additional cooling capacity by pulling heat out of the radiator and pumping it into the transmission. A transmission "cooler." (NV4500's don't make heat in 4th gear.)

Auto trans people have no sense of humor...

Um........
I guess mine was too oblique?
LOL.

This is the controller that I was thinking of, but I noticed just now that it is limited to 70A:
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_temperature_controllers.htm