Ram Assist Upgrade and Painless Harness Install

[Scoop]

JohnJohn, thanks for the pics. Nice installation. That's what I will probably do. I was wanting to mount it high from the cross member to the pitman arm but I can find a 5/8" to 3/4" female heim to go on the end of the ram rod. I would need to bush down to a 5/8" bolt on the pitman and I don't think that would be strong enough.

 

[Scoop]

I got the newly ported steering box reinstalled on the Bronco today.

I will not be installing the ram until I get the wiring harness completed. But installing the box will let me move the Bronco once its running again. I can then move it to the lift to finish up the ram installation.

 

[bigjhoov]

I'd recommend mounting the ram in double shear on the axle side. I'd also recommend using a tie rod clamp on the tie rod instead of tabs. It makes adjustment much easier.

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/motorsport-specific-products/offroad/tie-rod-components/tie-rod-clamps

 

[Scoop]

I'd recommend mounting the ram in double shear on the axle side. I'd also recommend using a tie rod clamp on the tie rod instead of tabs. It makes adjustment much easier.

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/motorsport-specific-products/offroad/tie-rod-components/tie-rod-clamps

Those look good. I've heard recommendations NOT to use clamps because they can slip. These look pretty hefty though - any problems with these slipping that you've heard of? I'm a little leery of welding to my tie rod and creating a spot that will bend easy so a good clamp would be my choice.

But with the clamp you end up with single shear on the tie rod vs. double shear with the weld on tabs??

 

[sprdv1]

Gary,
Here is how I mounted mine with a TRO steering linkage and a riser. Make sure you make the lines as long as you can. I had to replace my lines when I found out they were not long enough to flex out.
According to PSC you want to hemi joints on the ram to be on the same plane.

Mine is set up that same way....

Do our vendors or PSC sell that axle bracket?

 

[JohnJohn]

Not sure what bracket?
I have a Kiser Riser from Bernie Kiser to raise my track bar up then I just welded a bolt on the riser for the ram. It works fine and I get full steering without a limiting block in the ram. The Ram is also behind the steering linkage.

 

[Apogee]

When my brother and I installed his PSC ram-assist on his Toyota, we fabricated our own tie-rod clamp from DOM because it's what we had...no slippage whatsoever and double shear on the rod. Plus, we can adjust his toe incrementally rather than only half (SRE) or full (TRE) turns.

 

[bigjhoov]

Those look good. I've heard recommendations NOT to use clamps because they can slip. These look pretty hefty though - any problems with these slipping that you've heard of? I'm a little leery of welding to my tie rod and creating a spot that will bend easy so a good clamp would be my choice.

But with the clamp you end up with single shear on the tie rod vs. double shear with the weld on tabs??

No problems with slippage on any that I've installed, including race vehicles. No issues with the heim on the tie-rod being in single shear either.

Here's a clamp that puts it in double shear if you're worried about it.

http://rpmfab.com/Heavy-Duty-Double-Shear-Hydro-Assist-6-Bolt-Clamp-15-ID_p_354.html

I have a piece that was machined to adapt a 3/4" heim to the 5/8" ram shaft, allowing you to place the ram on top of the knuckle and the tie rod below using one bolt. But it was removed and replaced with a single shear clamp mount.

 

[74 Bronco Billy]

You might like these better, and they are less expensive, but shipping might be more.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1697.html

33.00 each., and real beefy!

 

[Boss Hugg]

yeah, I was going to suggest welding the double shear brackets on a clamp... And something says the clamp can be had for less than ruff stuff's price, but I won't guarantee that.

 

[Scoop]

Too late to turn back now!

OK, I've started the Painless harness install in earnest. The dash is out and the old main harness in now completely removed.

What a mess of wires!

The dash is now completely stripped of wires, switches, cables, ducting, etc.

First I need to clean up behind the dash - it needs some rust repair - and repairing/repainting of the dash itself before I start the actual harness installation. The dash was pretty chopped up from the PO. I'm not sure yet if I'm going to patch the dash or just put another removable plate on it. I'd like to take all the gauges and switches I had hanging under the dash and move them to the dash face. I like the idea of keeping a removable plate for easy access to behind the dash, but I also like the clean look of smooth dash! There are 35 screw holes on the bottom of the dash that need to be filled! Any thoughts?

 

[Dlish]

Yup. Call BC Broncos and get a new blank dash and lay it out just the way you want.

Did my painless install this past spring, amazing kit (not exactly painless) but totally worth it. Laughing because i have the same pictures of the old harness on the ground, empty dash, etc.

If you bought the wire loom kit, buy their tools for getting the wire inside, holy hell it was miserable trying to run wires in the smaller sizes, my hands hurt for days from that.

 

[Scoop]

I would definitely go with a BC Broncos blank dash if I was going to install some custom aftermarket gauges or if I wanted to move the instrument cluster to the other side of the steering wheel. But this is just for a crawler/trail rig, not a show Bronco, and my goal is to just clean it up a bit. The dash is in good shape except for the butchered hole and repairing it will be easier/cheaper than a new dash.

What tool are you talking about? I do have the loom kit I'm going to install. Thanks!

 

[Dlish]

Gotcha on the dash. I went to different gauge and just needed a fresh start.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/70941

Hope the link works. They have them on amazon too

 

[Scoop]

Thanks! It does look like those would be very helpful. I will be ordering them!

 

[Prizefighter]

I talked to both WTO (Redneck Ram) and PSC. Both seem to be good companies but I decided to go with the Redneck Ram. Still undecided how to mount it.

I got WTO Red Neck Ram. John Dixon mounted up the ram assist for me. I can send you pics if you need them.

 

[Scoop]

OK here's what I'm thinking on the dash. I will fill in the butchered hole and the ash tray. I'll then cut out the old speaker grill for access to the fuse box - I'll mount the fuse box to the dash just behind where the speaker would be. I have a '66 louvered speaker grill that I will use to cover the fuse box hole but allowing for easy access. Gauges will be mounted in the dash where the radio would be along with switches for ARB, Warn winch and a 12V power outlet. Ignition, lights, wipers, flashers and heater controls will remain in the stock positions.

Feedback welcome!!

 

[Scoop]

I got WTO Red Neck Ram. John Dixon mounted up the ram assist for me. I can send you pics if you need them.

PM sent.

One issue on the ram install I'm running into is the track bar on my TRO conversion is 1 1/8" OD. I cant find a clamp to fit 1 1/8" tube. I may have to enlarge the tie rod or just use the weld on tabs.

 

[Dlish]

Why not use the nice plastic glove box and fuse panel mount from the kit?

 

[Scoop]

Why not use the nice plastic glove box and fuse panel mount from the kit?

I have the older kit where the fuse box is supposed to be mounted to the firewall. I got the kit right before Painless did the upgrade for the newer style fuse box and I'm just now getting around to installing it! That said, I want easy access to the fuses. And mounting it on the firewall is not easy access!!