Raptors 3 link thread and 99-04 dana 60 swap.

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

So after numerous texts and calls with Steve and Gordon I have decided to 3 link my dana 60 when it goes in.

Why? because I might be able to make it work with my west coast broncos radius arms but it might not work as good as it did with my dana 44.

It is almost the same cost "if I sell my arms" to do the 3 link.

It will more than likely perform better than my current setup.

I will be using my current frame mounts for the 1.25 hiems on the west coast arms for 36" lowers and adding a frame mount for a 30" upper.

All frame mounts will have 1.25 hiems and axle end will have Johnny joints.


Most of the stuff will come from ruffstuff:

Coil and link mounts: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/COILINK.html

Upper link frame mount: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/3LEG10.html

Passenger upper link on the axle: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/LINKT10.html

Track bar mount axle end: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/PANCEN.html

Hiems for frame ends, all will be right hand and axle end Johnny joints will be left hand: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=125RESET

So who wants some +6 west coast arms?

 

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

I would like to run Johnny joints all around because I can get them cheaper bu I am having a hard time finding out all of the actual mounting widths for them. Most of the sellers go not actually list that.

 

[70_Steve]

I would like to run Johnny joints all around because I can get them cheaper bu I am having a hard time finding out all of the actual mounting widths for them. Most of the sellers go not actually list that.

From Currie Enterprises web site:

Description: Billet Johnny Joint® rod ends feature CNC machined 4140 chrome moly construction, a 1 1/4"-12 left hand threaded shank and come fully assembled with our standard Johnny Joint® internals (2.625" wide ball center with a 9/16" thru bolt hole). These units are externally greasable via a zerk fitting. Johnny Joint® body and center ball are clear zinc plated.

 

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

From Currie Enterprises web site:

Description: Billet Johnny Joint® rod ends feature CNC machined 4140 chrome moly construction, a 1 1/4"-12 left hand threaded shank and come fully assembled with our standard Johnny Joint® internals (2.625" wide ball center with a 9/16" thru bolt hole). These units are externally greasable via a zerk fitting. Johnny Joint® body and center ball are clear zinc plated.

Sweet! I was looking at other vendors not the currie site, much more info on there.

 

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

Ok so all of the Currie 2.5 johnny joints are for a 2 and 5/8 which mach all of the ruff stuff brakets minus the panhard bar. Hmmmm gonna run all johnny joints since they are cheaper and a better option IMO.

 

[tobinj]

Keep me in mind with the arms when you want to sell them, I would probably be interested.

 

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

Lets just consider the arms for sale, daddy needs 3 link money. PM if interested.

Ok more on the johnny joints thing. turns out the price per joint is cheaper but the buck stops there. 21 bucks for a threaded insert and a jam nut? That is a lot buuuuuut all 6 johnny joints and parts are 428.70 not cheap but the Ruff stuff 1.25 hiems are 417.00 so really it's whatever you want but folks that I trust on the topic tell me to use the JJ's so I am going to. Plus they are rebuilable and greasable where hiems are not.

 

[Mountain Ram]

I have been running JJs on a radius arm setup on my fullsize crawler for years... 4" tires and 100:1+ low range- beating and banging- no issues.

I have seen a couple of heims let go, which usually took out an expensive coilover as well, but I think the heims were 7/8 or 1?".

Subscribed to this thread, been looking at a triangulated 4 link for my '70 EB crawler project... don't like track bars.

 

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

I have been running JJs on a radius arm setup on my fullsize crawler for years... 4" tires and 100:1+ low range- beating and banging- no issues.

I have seen a couple of heims let go, which usually took out an expensive coilover as well, but I think the heims were 7/8 or 1?".

Subscribed to this thread, been looking at a triangulated 4 link for my '70 EB crawler project... don't like track bars.

This is a 3 link with little to no triangulation and a panhard bar, I did not even consider a 4 link because I like my sanity, or what is left of it.

 

[DanWheeler]

Looking forward to seeing this come together.

Are you going with a 78/79 Dana 60? (I don't think those brackets would fit on a later model)

Are you putting your upper inside or outside the frame on the passenger side?

 

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

Looking forward to seeing this come together.

Are you going with a 78/79 Dana 60? (I don't think those brackets would fit on a later model)

Are you putting your upper inside or outside the frame on the passenger side?

04 super duty 60, and the upper will be inside.

 

[DanWheeler]

Do you have the axle already? How much tube will you have on the driver's side?

Your inner C's and diff will be cast and difficult to weld to. You sure those RuffStuff brackets will fit on the driver's side?

 

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

Do you have the axle already? How much tube will you have on the driver's side?

Your inner C's and diff will be cast and difficult to weld to. You sure those RuffStuff brackets will fit on the driver's side?

The axle will be here on Saturday. I can cut and trim the Diff back quite a bit in order to make room. if I really need to I can get a high nickle rod and arc weld the cast.

 

[stlo]

Don't forget to take plenty of pics nick!

 

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

Well I started to take it apart in the driveway, noooooo way! there is a slant and something about a bronco on jackstands on a slant? not gonna happen. So I had to empty my small one car garage out and stuff the bronco in there. I had to drop the tires down to nothing in order for it to fit.

 

[tobinj]

Better safe than sorry,good move getting it on a level surface sucks being crammed but better than being squashed

 

[Yeller]

2nd the not being squished part, been there and watched that rodeo, never want to see or hear about it again.

You've got a good plan. don't worry about welding on the center section, just give me a call first and I'll help you with the details, its not complicated, just needs a slightly different technique.

 

[DanWheeler]

don't let THIS happen to YOU!

I'm sure you will be fine too especially if you use a nickel rod. I did my truss and brackets with a standard MIG and wire and didn't have too much trouble. I got the most important parts crack-free anyway.

LOTS and LOTS of pre-heating and peening

 

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

2nd the not being squished part, been there and watched that rodeo, never want to see or hear about it again.

You've got a good plan. don't worry about welding on the center section, just give me a call first and I'll help you with the details, its not complicated, just needs a slightly different technique.

Just got off the phone with Airgas and they keep nickel 99 in stock at 12 bucks per job pack. So I will get my Buzz box when I go up to Michigan and weld it some time in Dec.

Steve I will be calling you, all I know is pre heat to 350 or more and make sure it's clean before attacking with a nickel rod.

 

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

No turning back now