RB's 1976 Bronco Ranger

[RustyButtons]

Well, a brush in a pan of kerosene comes to mine. But my go-to for most of this stuff is Chem-Dip which is a carb cleaner. And it's probably what you've heard as not being good for the parts.
It won't hurt the cast-iron of course, and it won't hurt the brass if not left in for too long. But you probably don't have to toss any brass parts in there anyway. If there are any, just scrub them down with scotch-brite and some brake fluid.

The seals are what hate carburetor cleaners like Chem-Dip, but I've reconditioned seals to good effect when "ruined" by Chemtool and Chemdip stuff. I just soaked the swollen seals in water over night and they looked just as they did before.

Might not even be pertinent, since there should hopefully be new seals with any rebuilding procedure.

What was the cleaning solution and/or method used in the thread I linked to?

paul

I've followed a bunch of links that thread lead to - which have a lot of good stuff - but the only cleaning solution I can find mentioned is vinegar. And that is mostly aimed at removing rust internally when folks take the fittings off and the insides have rusty brake fluid. Jcckys mentioned his own challenges getting these little pieces out, but only mentioned vinegar as a cleaner. He mentioned he had some of these same challenges, but said he found most of these little bits were in bad shape internally once he got them out, and that he was going to see if he could source these small parts out of junkyard valves.

Most of the rebuild stuff I can find start with valves that are much cleaner on the outside.

 

[RustyButtons]

My favorite cleaning solution is a equal mix of Kerosene, Mineral Spirits, and ATF (Transmission fluid). Some people add acetone.

I keep my ultrasonic cleaner filled with it......and it’s great for loosening rusty bolts, and cleaning guns. Google “Ed’s Red” for more on the recipe....

Thanks. I'll give it a try.

 

[sprdv1]

Thanks. I'll give it a try.

good luck...

 

[DirtDonk]

...Most of the rebuild stuff I can find start with valves that are much cleaner on the outside.

That's because what cleans the outside is not in question. Simply clean it with what you have and move on to the next part.
It's just cast steel/iron so it's not exactly part of the process to worry over. Just clean it... Wipe with a rag and spray carb cleaner on it, wire brush it, kerosene, custom mixes, water and soap, oven cleaner, 409, even WD40 or water! Heck, soak it in acid if you want.
Just not too long of course.

The only parts people worry about are any soft metal bits (copper, brass, etc), any rubber-ish o-rings or seals, and anything made of plastic. And the soft metals generally don't count here, because most of us don't have anything in the garage that would damage them, or intend to leave it soaking in something long enough (months maybe) to harm them either.
The videos figure the viewer does not want to waste precious minutes watching someone scrub down a gunky old combination valve's cast metal outer body.

I intend to avoid that part altogether and pressure wash it while it's still mounted on the frame. Does not help you since yours is already removed. Just saying even water will do it under the right circumstances.

Paul

 

[RustyButtons]

That's because what cleans the outside is not in question. Simply clean it with what you have and move on to the next part.
It's just cast steel/iron so it's not exactly part of the process to worry over. Just clean it... Wipe with a rag and spray carb cleaner on it, wire brush it, kerosene, custom mixes, water and soap, oven cleaner, 409, even WD40 or water! Heck, soak it in acid if you want.
Just not too long of course.

The only parts people worry about are any soft metal bits (copper, brass, etc), any rubber-ish o-rings or seals, and anything made of plastic. And the soft metals generally don't count here, because most of us don't have anything in the garage that would damage them, or intend to leave it soaking in something long enough (months maybe) to harm them either.
The videos figure the viewer does not want to waste precious minutes watching someone scrub down a gunky old combination valve's cast metal outer body.

I intend to avoid that part altogether and pressure wash it while it's still mounted on the frame. Does not help you since yours is already removed. Just saying even water will do it under the right circumstances.

Paul

Yeah, thanks. I just don't have any experience with it, so I wanted to make sure I wasn't using anything on the outside that would harm the inside.

I'll tell you what... Ed's Red gets your hands clean.

 

[DirtDonk]

I'm gonna' have to try some of that stuff then. Just as long as the "clean" part doesn't have anything to do with peeling a layer of skin off the top!;D

Paul

 

[RustyButtons]

I'm gonna' have to try some of that stuff then. Just as long as the "clean" part doesn't have anything to do with peeling a layer of skin off the top!;D

Paul

Lol... maybe it's deceptive. But the ATF makes it feel gentle.

 

[sprdv1]

LOL. In the eyes of the beholder...

 

[RustyButtons]

Here's something I'm challenged by, I'm hoping someone can help with...

I rebuilt the heater box. I'm trying to put it back in. There is a cable that comes from the dashboard, from the same knob that has the motor switch, that runs to a baffle, I guess, on the back of the box. It needs to connect to this lever that moves up and down to allow air to flow. And the cable needs to be held in place by a clip. (I'm thinking this is way more info than necessary, and anyone able to help knows exactly what I'm talking about.)

The way I have it running right now, the cable is binding up and it doesn't operate smoothly at all. Is there a way to run this to make the cable push and pull smoothly? There doesn't seem to be a way to get it to run through the clip that doesn't require it to bend in ways it doesn't want to.

 

[DirtDonk]

Are you sure you're trying to attach it to the correct lever? There are two. One for the Heat/Defrost selection, and one to open up the main intake. You are probably needing the one on the right towards the passenger side, which opens the main damper door. Is that the one you're trying?

The fan switch should also be the "Pull For Heat" knob, correct? If so then that's the one that goes to the right side damper door. The left side is "heat / defrost" correct? That should be the lever on the left for the blend door.

Got a pic of how it's kinking?

Paul

 

[RustyButtons]

In the attached image, my understanding is that a clip attaches to the metal strip sticking up in the middle. And the cable coming from the motor switch knob needs to run through that clip and attach to the lever. But the cable comes from a knob to the left of that metal clip, and the lever the cable attaches to is also left of the metal clip. So coming from the left, the cable has to run right, then turn back left to go back through the clip and attach to the lever?

I'm thinking maybe I messed with it too much when I was connecting it. And I maybe bent it in a way that is making it not operate smoothly. There aren't any real hard kinks. But the interior cable isn't running smoothly through the outer sleeve. So when you try to push and pull the lever, it binds and doesn't want to move.

 

[sprdv1]

Don't seem like it would give you that much of a fit

 

[DirtDonk]

See what happens when you lube the cable maybe. Let it hang straight again, then spray whatever you have handy (but we know that WD40 does work for this) and see if it alleviates some of the binding when it's curving.

Can't say for sure about the angles. Haven't looked at a working one lately and can't get to mine easily for the moment.

paul

 

[.94 OR]

I thought "Pull for Heat" went under the hood to open the hot water valve?

 

[Slowleak]

I thought "Pull for Heat" went under the hood to open the hot water valve?

“Pull for heat” opens the flap so that air flows thru the heater core. The water valve is controlled by the “Pull Temp” knob.

 

[DirtDonk]

And by that same token, pulling the Temp knob all the way out and turning the fan on high does not do much unless you also Pull for Heat to let the air actually flow through the heater plenum.

During the warmer times, you can just Pull For Heat to let fresh air in from the outside. In theory while leaving the Temp cable all the way closed you would get cold air. But most of the time there is some heat inside the system from either the valve not closing all the way, or just heat soak from the engine compartment maybe, so you do get warm air. But it's not the same as when you really open up the temperature control valve.
It's kind of like having two vents. You have your driver's side air vent you open the manual door on, and being able to control the passenger vent with a cable.

I used to use it a lot around here, because the temps were so mild. Cool weather and the residual heat in the system was just perfect.

Paul

 

[sprdv1]

for sure.. and keeps reminding me to fix mine uggh

And by that same token, pulling the Temp knob all the way out and turning the fan on high does not do much unless you also Pull for Heat to let the air actually flow through the heater plenum.

During the warmer times, you can just Pull For Heat to let fresh air in from the outside. In theory while leaving the Temp cable all the way closed you would get cold air. But most of the time there is some heat inside the system from either the valve not closing all the way, or just heat soak from the engine compartment maybe, so you do get warm air. But it's not the same as when you really open up the temperature control valve.
It's kind of like having two vents. You have your driver's side air vent you open the manual door on, and being able to control the passenger vent with a cable.

I used to use it a lot around here, because the temps were so mild. Cool weather and the residual heat in the system was just perfect.