rear axle back 1" with lift block and shim

[muskrat]

bought the Rough Stuff (off road design) zero rate leaf to move the axle back 1" to clear the 33's on my LUBR.

The zero rate block along with existing 6 degree shim isn't working out.

Does anyone make a add a leaf that moves the axle back that already has the 6 degrees tapered in it?

 

[Crush]

Diy4x.com has a thing called a ezinch. It is a 1" lift bllock you can either move the axel back or forward 1" or 1.5". It bolts to the leaf pack with the center bolt. Also the make any degree shim u need that will bolt to the ezinch with two recessed bolts. This is what i used and it works great. They have a video link on their website of the install of them.

 

[JohnJohn]

Dave do you need the 6 degree shim?
I did not need one on The Skunk with a 2.5" lift. I used a 6 degree shim on my 77 but it needed it with a 3.5" lift.
I say run it without the shim and see how it goes.

 

[Dlish]

You still have a Bronco? Thought you just wheeled that 4Runner now.

Do you need the extra leaf? Or as John said, can you lose the shim?

 

[Teal68]

Hey Muskrat, I just moved my axle back 1" two weekends ago. I just drilled the perch and u-bolt plate. Was easy and works great.....of course I needed a longer drive shaft and e-brake cables.

 

[muskrat]

Well, I needed the shims prior to moving the axle back, so I'm thinking it will still b required. Pretty sure I solved the shim issue by drilling through them to allow me to tighten the center bolt. Also ordered the top plates from rough stuff. Drilling through the top plate at the bend was gonna be tough.

I'm hoping I won't have to extend the drive shaft. I'll figure that out when it's bolted back together.

Teal68, where'd you source the longer e brake cables?


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[muskrat]

And Dlish, if all goes wrong I will be there, wheeling the 4Runner!


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[Whoaa]

I moved one back on a 77' model. Because the fuel doors are in the way you can't position a fender flare far enough forward to be centered in the wheel well. I'm still not sure what you're gaining by moving the axle back on an uncut LUBR, and why you need a 6* shim.

I'm running 37" rubber and 5 1/2" of suspension lift. After consulting with Tom Woods driveshaft folks http://www.4xshaft.com/, and measuring the angle of my pinion in relation to my driveshaft slope/angle I came up with about 6 degree's. All Bronco's are slightly different, however I cant imagine using 3" of suspension and 33" rubber you'll need to move the pinion angle 6*?

I also noticed in your last post some comments about tightening the center pin. The pin through the center of the leaves just keep them in place, but they still gotta move.

Good stuff-> http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Anti-Wrap_Leaf_Spring_Perches, http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Extreme_duty_U_bolt_kit

One way you may choose is to ditch the shims, don't tighten the center pin and then wait for it to break, and ditch the smallish factory leaf perch. Ruff Stuff sells some dandy leaf spring perch's that are wider and longer than stock http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/springperchantiwrap.html, and has pre-drilled holes for moving the diff housing forward or rearward about an inch. These new perch's are pretty straightforward, cut the old ones off the housing and then weld the news ones back on in the proper orientation for added degree of pinion tip-up angle greater than stock.
Another signifigant advantage to using the big perch's is they offer more contact surface for reduced axle wrap, and no phoney shims. Believe me, when you offset the diff housing, use a high HP engine, low gears, and big tires the rear diff housing wants to climb and form a new effect of axle wrap. They also have some matching top plates, in my case I already had an extra set of WH heavy-duty top plates so I just drilled some holes in the right places to make everything jive, .....or just get these to make the job simple http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/UB-PLATES.html

Using these larger perch's my 77' now has very secure and solid mounted leaf springs w/ virtually no axle wrap (also using a WH wrap-trap), perfect pinion angle with no binding -ever- even at full extention of my flexy suspension, plus my axle housing is moved back about an inch to better center the large rubber in the wells

 

[thin blue line]

very interesting read, I need to keep this in mind when doing my wife's trail rig.. thanks for the info

 

[muskrat]

Whoaa, thanks for feedback and pics. Not sure why my EB required the shims with a 2.5" lift, but, there was a nasty vibration from the rear of the bronco after the lift install, and with the addition of the 6 degree shims, all went away. I had another friend have to use them on a 2.5" lift also.

One thing I've learned working on my old bronco is that every single one of them is slightly different. So much for QA in the 60's and 70's. Who knows, maybe my perches were welded on, on a Monday morning after a weekend bender.....

 

[Teal68]

Muskrat, I got the longer E-brake cables from WH's.

 

[Crush]

Usually the passenger side is long enough but my driver side was short so inused anpassenger side cable on the drivers side. Worked very well. Was able to route it away from exhaust and stuff

 

[bronconut73]

Any reason not to go 1.5" vs. just 1"?

Like clearance for the differential?

Or added axle wrap?

 

[Crawdad]

Diy4x.com has a thing called a ezinch. It is a 1" lift bllock you can either move the axel back or forward 1" or 1.5". It bolts to the leaf pack with the center bolt. Also the make any degree shim u need that will bolt to the ezinch with two recessed bolts. This is what i used and it works great. They have a video link on their website of the install of them.

I received my Easy Inch blocks from Kurt last week. I drilled 3/4" holes in my WH spring plates this past weekend. Will put it all together soon.

 

[Crush]

Cool crawdad. Hes a pretty good guy. Did u get some degree shims from him also? I did not but i think i need to get some. Just have to figure out which ones i need. Also you will prollly have to do ill the hole in the spring pack. If you do, use a masonary bit. For some reason that big end on the bit cuts it better

 

[Crawdad]

Cool crawdad. Hes a pretty good guy. Did u get some degree shims from him also? I did not but i think i need to get some. Just have to figure out which ones i need. Also you will prollly have to do ill the hole in the spring pack. If you do, use a masonary bit. For some reason that big end on the bit cuts it better

I bought the WH Extreme Spring kit a while back. I bought their 6 degree shims as well. I've been investing time on how to move my rear axle back an inch. I didn't want to cut off old spring pads and install new longer ones bc I didn't feel comfortable welding it all back up correctly. Dan at Ruffstuff has some cool offset spring pads but again id have to cut and weld. I chkd on a lead at DIY4X and liked their Easy Inch Kit. I sent him like 6 emails and not one response. So after 3 months of looking at them I decided to call Kurt directly. He said his spam settings kicks out a lot of emails bc of all the junk emails he gets from various websites. Kurts parts is mainly for any vehicle with leaf springs. He's big into full size blazers. His kit allows me to move my axle 1" or 1.5". I decided on 1" so I spent the weekend machining holes in the WH spring plates. I need to get with Doghouse and see if I can powdercoat Kurts blocks bc they are noncoated mild steel. I plan to use the WH shims as well on top of the Easy Inch Blocks.

I hope to put all this stuff together in the coming days. I like the Easy Inch kit bc it's a "simple" install vs me cutting off spring pads and hoping like crazy I weld them back on and not be a degree or two off.
Matt

 

[Crush]

Um yep. Im the one who posted earlier to set u in the direction of kurt. Reason I asked about his degree shims is because his are designed to bolt to the ez inch so they can not kick out. Once installed the degree shim/the ez inch/and the spring pack are one connected by the center pin. Lol. Also i painted my blocks and u bolts to look like cad plating because they were raw steel.