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Rear axle options. Which axle do I commit to use?

Madgyver

Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
15,030
14 bolt or a 10.25.

14 bolts has caddy discs with parking brake. not sure about the internals yet. it was sitting under a house for awhile.

10.25 also have a disc brake kit not installed.

both will need a good through to set them up.

i have options
 

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rocknhorse76

Contributor
Bronco owner since 1993 💪🏻
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Central WA
14 bolt is easier to set up and has a shorter pinion that allows for a longer driveshaft. It also has a third pinion support bearing like a 9 inch.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
37,076
Is the 10.25 from a superduty with the metric bolt pattern? Will there be a matching front axle?

I would lean toward the 14-bolt.
 

ssray

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Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
915
Loc.
South Central NE
Here’s an article detailing tips and differences in the Sterling axles.


The 10.5’s came in 99 and had discs and metric pattern. 2011 brought an electric locking diff option and you can find articles or YouTube’s about swapping them. Finding one in a junkyard might be sketchy, but you can find them new through some Ford dealers for around 600$ which is a good savings from aftermarket. The older axles don’t have the provision for the electrical connection so it is diy to get the wires installed.

They are said to have an 1” more clearance under the diff FWIW.
 

jamesroney

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Sep 11, 2007
Messages
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Fremont, CA
14 bolt or a 10.25.

14 bolts has caddy discs with parking brake. not sure about the internals yet. it was sitting under a house for awhile.

10.25 also have a disc brake kit not installed.

both will need a good through to set them up.

i have options
All that matters is what you are going to do with it, what ratio will you run, and what locker will you buy.

If you are going to run it with custom brakes, geared and spooled, then it doesn't matter...and you are basically buying iron. Use the one that weighs more.

The vasts majority of people are making the choice between the 14 bolt, the 10.25, and the D70 as a "junkyard axle" decision. For this reason, the primary driver is cost. When your budget is $300, then you want the strongest, easiest, and most available axle. The proper choice has been the GM 14 bolt since 1973. And the reason is because you could get a full detroit locker as a drop in for $200. Couple that with 1-9/16 axle shafts, and the ability to change WMS by changing hubs, and the ability to shave the pumpkin...and the fact that the CUCV came factory / military surplus with 4.56 gears and a Detroit locker and a the 14 bolt is the clear winner.

Fast Forward to 1984, and Ford FINALLY built a 10.5 ring gear and a decent axle and put it in the F250 behind the 6.9 Diesel. The Dana 70U with a Power Lock and 35 spline axles was almost as durable as the 14 bolt, and pretty decent. But it's a heavy pig, with giant drum brakes. But in a crawler, it's a good choice. The Sterling 10.25 is basically the same axle, and they are all in the same 10.5" category. The AAM 10.5 falls in the same family.

So who cares? If they are all 10.5 nominal ring gear, (10.25 is close enough to 10.5) then what's the difference? The difference is in failure modes. Rear axles fail for 3 reasons. Shock load, Max torque, and wear. With the advent of high torque diesel power, a 10.5 ring gear is necessary to propel a 3/4 ton truck down the highway under load. So everybody makes a 10.5 rear axle. And any hypoid gear set looks the same. But with high shock load, and big torque...pinion deflection becomes important. The GM 14 bolt is the clear winner for pinion deflection under torque. And also the winner for impact loads. and also the winner for the biggest axle shafts (at 1-9/16 vs 1-1/2)

As soon as you open you wallet and decide to get a selectable locker, custom gears, and custom brakes...then you've totally changed the game. And in a lightweight vehicle, it's really hard to beat a fabricated 9 inch running full float 40 spline gun drilled axles on a full spool. But that's where weight is the driver.

So the answer to the rear end question is always the same, and has been the same since 1973. GM 14 bolt for the win.
 

1969

Contributor
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Feb 28, 2022
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Loc.
Reno, NV
I have a matching set of 2008 super duty axles under my Bronco. Got them as a pair and that’s the only reason I stuck with the sterling 10.5 otherwise I would have picked up a 14 bolt just because I can find them cheaper and easier. They’re both stout axles.
 
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OP
Madgyver

Madgyver

Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
15,030
Is the 10.25 from a superduty with the metric bolt pattern? Will there be a matching front axle?

I would lean toward the 14-bolt.
1999 set from F350. 8x6.5.
I also have a 2004 HPD60 with kit to drill unit bearings to 8x6.5
 

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Broncobowsher

Total hack
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Jun 4, 2002
Messages
37,076
It's been a long time, but don't they have shave kits for the 14 bolt? Take off so much material it turns into a 13 bolt?
 

Yeller

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Rogers County Oklahoma
My vote is 14 bolt for numerous reasons, most of which are listed above.

@Broncobowsher yes there are numerous shave kits from 1” for the 13 bolt, to 2” and a shaved ring gear or the knuckle dragger version of drag it over 1 rock at a time until there are 13 bolts left like mine 😂
 

1969

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Feb 28, 2022
Messages
1,085
Loc.
Reno, NV
My vote is 14 bolt for numerous reasons, most of which are listed above.

@Broncobowsher yes there are numerous shave kits from 1” for the 13 bolt, to 2” and a shaved ring gear or the knuckle dragger version of drag it over 1 rock at a time until there are 13 bolts left like mine 😂

Funny how no one objects to using a Chevy axle, knuckles, power steering pump, and other bits but heaven forbid use an engine haha!
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
37,076
I used chevy 350 rings in my 351.
Chevy guys love using the Ford 9"

The GM corporate axle division got spun off into there own company. AAM, American Axle Manufacturing. AAM sells axles to GM, Dodge/Ram, and Nissan. Maybe others as well?

The 32 Ford hotrod with a small block chevy was overdone so many times it gives heartburn.

It's not just Ford people. Buick people are not happy when you downgrade to a Chevy engine. And that is under the same family tree. Using the same chassis that makes it a simple bolt in.

Funniest use of a small block chevy I remember seeing. port-o-potty sucker. Small block chevy short block and a set of custom heads that were just check valves. The honey wagon would engage the PTO, spin up the short block, use the Chevy as a vacuum pump to suck up crap.
 

HoldMyPocket

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2010
Messages
369
Loc.
Charlotte
Here’s an article detailing tips and differences in the Sterling axles.

[/URL]

The 10.5’s came in 99 and had discs and metric pattern. 2011 brought an electric locking diff option and you can find articles or YouTube’s about swapping them. Finding one in a junkyard might be sketchy, but you can find them new through some Ford dealers for around 600$ which is a good savings from aftermarket. The older axles don’t have the provision for the electrical connection so it is diy to get the wires installed.

They are said to have an 1” more clearance under the diff FWIW.
Came here to mention the affordable electric locker option.
 

ssray

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
915
Loc.
South Central NE
Funniest use of a small block chevy I remember seeing. port-o-potty sucker. Small block chevy short block and a set of custom heads that were just check valves. The honey wagon would engage the PTO, spin up the short block, use the Chevy as a vacuum pump to suck up crap.
Well, the better the engine flows the better it would suck…. Bada bing ;)

Years ago when big compressors weren’t as common I thought about taking an old six cylinder, pulling the pushrods on the exhaust and fitting check valves on the base of the spark plugs. Wouldn’t have been as efficient as using every stroke but probably plenty for blowing dirt off equipment on the farm.
 

Tricky Dick

Sr. Member
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Jul 13, 2023
Messages
588
I had to make a similar decision but 10.5 vs 14B and in the end the 10.5 won because it was already the right pattern and OEM elockers are cheap. Obviously if you're considering a 10.25 the first doesn't apply to you and the gap narrows.

I will say the 10.5 ended up being a complete mother to regear, it took 5 times as long as the D60.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
37,076
Well, the better the engine flows the better it would suck…. Bada bing ;)

Years ago when big compressors weren’t as common I thought about taking an old six cylinder, pulling the pushrods on the exhaust and fitting check valves on the base of the spark plugs. Wouldn’t have been as efficient as using every stroke but probably plenty for blowing dirt off equipment on the farm.
The flow is in the heads, the sucker pump was using one off custom heads.

You want a mind blower... Small block ford heads, Aftermarket hemi heads that is, fitted to an LS https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/hemi-ls-yes-real-kicks-ass/

Still say the 14 bolt is the better choice.
 

ssray

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Messages
915
Loc.
South Central NE
You want a mind blower... Small block ford heads, Aftermarket hemi heads that is, fitted to an LS
Amazing amount of engineering in that engine. At 6000$ for the heads I’ll have to pass. :eek:

Didn’t mean to sound like I was pushing the Sterling over a 14. I had done a lot of research on them and when I found the factory e-locker price it fit the usage I was looking for. Not something to beat on, just want it able to get to moderate places reliably. Even found some aluminum outer parts if you were really weight watching. Little pricy though.
 
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OP
Madgyver

Madgyver

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Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
15,030
I got semi hemi Ford heads on my 393 stroked 351W... conservative 160hp at 2000rpm..... Not!!
 

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