Rear bed not level, slight angle to front of rig.

[DJT]

The rear quarters of my rig dip down about 3/4" towards the seat platform evenly on both sides.
I have a new full platform that is not welded in yet, all new body bushings, it's on a level surface and the hardtop is on.
I confused as to why it's not level which also effects my door openings.
Is it possible that it's from having the hardtop on and it's weighing it down in front?
Not the greatest pic to describe what I'm talking about but can't see what's keeping it from at least being close to level...

 

[bax]

I have to ask. if you put that level on the floor is it the same ?
I have seen many bent bodies at the rear or the Middle of the bronco. The bed support /mount area is often bowed. How is yours? You can also shim up any of the mounts to help with the overall fit.

 

[DJT]

Hey Bax, I was using a 6' level for more accuracy originally but didn't have that pic.
The floor is perfectly level, but I didn't try the frame itself from the underside of the truck.
I'll check that tonight. If that is also reading the same drop, shims would be the best option to adjust,
or should I be concerned about the bow?

 

[DirtDonk]

I can’t really see that well from my phone, so can’t answer about any bow. But that does not sound correct.
However shimming up individual or even multiple body mounts is how Ford did it on the assembly line even.
I think I’ve seen them most often at the front corners, but the rear is legit as well if that’s what it takes to correct a door gap.

 

[DirtDonk]

I should say though that a typical shimming from the factory would’ve been less than a quarter inch most cases.
I’ve heard of extreme measures, but never seen any that would make up for a three-quarter inch drop.

 

[bax]

Frame could also be bent. Who know what kind (use) the bronco has seen. Perhaps a dukes of hazard stunt vehicle?

 

[bax]

Plus a torpedo level on a rounded surface is a bit suspect. Could be right on. But looking for a 3/4'' difference should be pretty easy to find with a series of measurements off the level floor.

 

[67sport]

Typing while I think out loud here, so I may be off base, but measuring drop on body lines is not doing any good.
If we know that a stock bronco is roughly 6" from rear axle to frame, and roughly 7" at the front, then to have the stock rake, or a lifted variation there-of, the starting point is to reference all measurements off those numbers, isn't it?
Packaged lifts are measured at the front (I believe) so a 3.5 lift lifts the front 3,5, but the rear only 2-2.5, and levels the truck, typically. But there are many different reasons that the quarter panels could show out-of-level on a level floor, most of which aren't related to things being bent?
Apologies if I'm missing the point, DJT! Im just not clear on the problem. Are you suggesting that the quarters drop 3/4 in the last 16" before the B pillar, or that they are straight, just sloping down to the B pillar?

 

[DJT]

Yes 67 sport. The quarters are straight on both sides but slope down to the B pillars. (the center floor pan kit isn't even welded yet, just held in by body bushings)
I used a 6' level to get that rough angle and it's pretty even on both driver and pass sides. Note: I haven't adjusted the doors fully yet because of that slope and I'm sure that some of that 3/4" can be fixed by adjusting the hinges. But I'm worried about spending a lot of time adjusting the hinges to a B pillar that may be off to begin with, kind of a catch-22 situation...

Bax, this rig was a rusty mess sitting in a lot for years when I got it. I've got no history on it and I'm sure it's had a rough life. Gonna check the measurements from floor to rails and also check frame from underneath. Hopefully not any huge surprises!

 

[Madgyver]

i wouldn't worry about it until all your parts are tacked/screwed together, this includes hanging the doors to line everything up. It is then where you should start fitting everything up nicely before final welds.

 

[Rustytruck]

are your frame to floor measurements the same when compared to the other side. Are your floor to body measurements the same when compared to the other side. does all this go away if you use jack stands on the frame and remove the tires and let the suspension hang?

 

[DJT]

Hey Rustytruck, thanks for the additional things to look at.
I checked my floor to frame at several different locations an all looks good (within 3/16"). I'm going to check it again with jack stands, (unfortunately I never replaced my second pair after the HF recall).
I'll update again after I get another set of stands and let everything hang as see where I end up.
If this solves my problem, am I ok to weld my panels while on jack stands as opposed to tires on the ground?

 

[Rustytruck]

Personally I would start with frame on jack stands. steve 83 posted frame dimensions and data lines and check your frame against that. i would start with the bedsides plum and square and level a cross the top and level from side to side front to rear., everything starts there , then the door openings plumb square and level. the rear door post it can move about and it can only be set in the right place.The door has to come up to the bed lines and in and out to where the door sits in the right place. you cant put it any where else or things just dont fit and causes issues.best thing to do is mark your jack stands to the frame and floor in case you have to move them about you can replace them back to home. I dont care about the floor so once in place and set up I just paint around the jack stands Takes some pretty tall jack stands or alot of cribbing.