Rear disk wheel stud length issue

[399strokerEB]

I noticed after I did the Chevy rear disk swap that my lugnuts were only catching about 3/8 of my wheel studs with steel wheels. I kind of forgot about this issue until I swapped out my wheels for aluminum. I found some longer wheel studs that can be picked up at a parts store. I now have 1/2" of stud sticking past the wheel surface. For a little added security I purchased some cragar lugnuts with a little bit of a shank.

 

[bronconut73]

Well it looks like you will end up with a decent amount of thread engagement then.
I have seen those lug nuts before.

Have you confirmed that they will seat properly on your wheels.

 

[399strokerEB]

Yep, ran them in before I posted. They do catch on the powder coat a little but it's not factory.

 

[toddz69]

I run those ET (extended thread) lug nuts as well for my configuration.

Todd Z.

 

[nvrstuk]

Just a quick heads up on lug nut quality...

I needed 9/16" studs and lug nuts last year when completing my D60 frt and Hi9 w/14 bolt outer rear build.

The Summit lug nuts stripped on the 4th time I tried to remove them... I HAND START lug nuts with 3 complete revolutions (and torque these at 110ft lbs) since I wrenched at a GM dealership- so that's not what caused the poor quality lug nuts to gall up and require me to weld on a nut on the back side behind the rotor to remove two of them... 3 hours to remove to lug nuts...good thing I was at home since I'd just come back from wheeling again...

Short version.... but HI-Quality lug nuts...just like everything else on the market, there is cheap stuff out there but it's crap for quality...

My new ones are McGaard brand. The Dormann studs were all in great but I chased the threads to make sure...

EDIT: the lug nuts were not Summit brand, but purchased thru them ... didn't want to imply Summit brand were of poor quality

 

[Apogee]

Care to share what brand the junk lug nuts were? I've found that high price does not necessarily equal high quality and vice versa on some things.

 

[399strokerEB]

Also anti seize helps to keep threads from gauling and a better torque read.

 

[Apogee]

Also anti seize helps to keep threads from gauling and a better torque read.

I use anti-seize as well, but it's important to note that you should reduce your final torque spec accordingly since most of the manufacturer specs are for dry threads. For instance, if it calls for 100 ft-lb on a dry stud, I go 90-95 ft-lb on the same stud with high-temp nickel anti-seize.

 

[nvrstuk]

I believe they were CalChrome...they were the correct depth, price wasn't the cheapest and they were in stock...

We have two tire shops in town...neither use anti-seize and I never have either...till now.

Chev calls for torque for a 9/16" stud on a Chebby hub to 140#. After having 4 stripped studs on my Chev 3/4 ton the first time ever had to swap the wheels and tires...so I had to replace all the studs , I now torque them to 120#.

Agreed that more $$ doesn't always bring higher quality... BUT... I do know that in the parts game more money usually brings higher quaility... always exceptions.

I had to order at least a 1/2 dozen different studs before finding one that would press in, be the correct length, have the correct amount of shoulder, etc... thought the lug nuts would be easy... correct taper, correct length, order and be good for 10 years... nope...