Rear shock mounts

[joshua]

No I don't have shim under the leaf springs. I got a surprise under the mount like you had.
Also did ford forget to trun on the shielding gas when they welded part on the frame

My welds are just as porous on my frame. It took some grinding to redo them as well.

 

[Oldtimer]

Why do you have a Phillips screw on the one side?

Removing the nut twisted the end of the mount off, years (decades) ago.

Filed the end flat, drilled and tapped for a 10-24 screw, turned a cap, and bolted it together till I could fix it proper.
Discoverd my temp fix last year when I replace rear axle.
Still need to fix it.

 

[DirtDonk]

Or, as we like to say around here… “It’s only temporary. Unless it works!”

 

[Chris99]

Ok so I patched the rust holes in the frame. My question is should I plate the area i welded or will it make it to strong? Or cut off the tap in the back and rewelding it on to close the gap?

 

[big blue]

Yeah thats a good idea plus the new one look alot smaller then the original one.
Are your the same spot side to side your are they staggered too?

Ford used 1 1/8" round rod which isn't a command size so the new ones are made with 1" round rod.

 

[joshua]

Ok so I patched the rust holes in the frame. My question is should I plate the area i welded or will it make it to strong? Or cut off the tap in the back and rewelding it on to close the gap?

I’ll be interested in what is said to this question as well. Like previously stated I plan on using 1/8 plate from perch to perch. But I haven’t made a final decision on it.

 

[Oldtimer]

I would clamp angled brace against frame,
narrowing gap between bar and frame on outboard side,
and bend/modify tab to be against inboard side of frame.

 

[DirtDonk]

I agree. Unless it puts the shock stud location in the wrong spot? Would not think so though.
Better to have that side up against the frame. Even if it means raising the whole thing up a bit.
Can you raise the crossbar up slightly so that you have a little extra tilt-ability?
Worst case is you either have to bend the smaller, straighter tab, or need to create a small, simple spacer plate.

And in all this, did you ever call us on the phone, or email with the question, and see if there was anything wrong or we could get you a better one? I got sidetracked and don’t remember passing this along to the proper personages myself.
I know it’s a little late now, and you’re right at the point of installation. But at least it’s worth checking into.

Have you put the new ones up against your originals to gauge the variations? Got pics?

 

[joshua]

I agree. Unless it puts the shock stud location in the wrong spot? Would not think so though.
Better to have that side up against the frame. Even if it means raising the whole thing up a bit.
Can you raise the crossbar up slightly so that you have a little extra tilt-ability?
Worst case is you either have to bend the smaller, straighter tab, or need to create a small, simple spacer plate.

And in all this, did you ever call us on the phone, or email with the question, and see if there was anything wrong or we could get you a better one? I got sidetracked and don’t remember passing this along to the proper personages myself.
I know it’s a little late now, and you’re right at the point of installation. But at least it’s worth checking into.

Have you put the new ones up against your originals to gauge the variations? Got pics?

Mine were the same way, but from a different vendor. There must be a bad batch. I just chalked it up as this is the aftermarket we live in. And it can be real hassle to try and have it replaced, because a lot of the time the replacement part isn’t any better then the one you sent back. It’s either the same problem or effed in a different way.

Also A lot of times is seems like you’re getting put on trial, like your lying or are an idiot when you’re literally pleading your case. Which I also understand from the point of the vendor, because now the vendor is now probably going to lose money on this part as well.


I’m not just speaking in the bronco world either. Trying to build a nova, yep same crap different vendors, ect. It’s just the way most of this stuff is now whatever you’re working on. It’s bs and most likely not the vendors fault unless they are knowingly buying something inferior to make more money.

Usually they are sniffed out by car people eventually though, because most car folk are smart and on a budget. That usually equals research.

 

[joshua]

Long story short, if I can I just try and work with the parts I get the first time.

 

[Chris99]

I would clamp angled brace against frame,
narrowing gap between bar and frame on outboard side,
and bend/modify tab to be against inboard side of frame.

View attachment 928504

Ok ill do that you don't think it is necessary to reinforce the frame patch?

I agree. Unless it puts the shock stud location in the wrong spot? Would not think so though.
Better to have that side up against the frame. Even if it means raising the whole thing up a bit.
Can you raise the crossbar up slightly so that you have a little extra tilt-ability?
Worst case is you either have to bend the smaller, straighter tab, or need to create a small, simple spacer plate.

And in all this, did you ever call us on the phone, or email with the question, and see if there was anything wrong or we could get you a better one? I got sidetracked and don’t remember passing this along to the proper personages myself.
I know it’s a little late now, and you’re right at the point of installation. But at least it’s worth checking into.

Have you put the new ones up against your originals to gauge the variations? Got pics?

Ok so here are some pics. Just roughly set a plate in the back and raised up the mount a little bit. You don’t think there is a need to reinforce the patch that was welded in?
The old one the angle part is alot shorter and the round stock is alot thicker. No I never called but I just assumed aftermarket parts you just got to make them fit.

 

[Chris99]

Long story short, if I can I just try and work with the parts I get the first time.

Mine were the same way, but from a different vendor. There must be a bad batch. I just chalked it up as this is the aftermarket we live in. And it can be real hassle to try and have it replaced, because a lot of the time the replacement part isn’t any better then the one you sent back. It’s either the same problem or effed in a different way.

Also A lot of times is seems like you’re getting put on trial, like your lying or are an idiot when you’re literally pleading your case. Which I also understand from the point of the vendor, because now the vendor is now probably going to lose money on this part as well.


I’m not just speaking in the bronco world either. Trying to build a nova, yep same crap different vendors, ect. It’s just the way most of this stuff is now whatever you’re working on. It’s bs and most likely not the vendors fault unless they are knowingly buying something inferior to make more money.

Usually they are sniffed out by car people eventually though, because most car folk are smart and on a budget. That usually equals research.

Mine were the same way, but from a different vendor. There must be a bad batch. I just chalked it up as this is the aftermarket we live in. And it can be real hassle to try and have it replaced, because a lot of the time the replacement part isn’t any better then the one you sent back. It’s either the same problem or effed in a different way.

Also A lot of times is seems like you’re getting put on trial, like your lying or are an idiot when you’re literally pleading your case. Which I also understand from the point of the vendor, because now the vendor is now probably going to lose money on this part as well.


I’m not just speaking in the bronco world either. Trying to build a nova, yep same crap different vendors, ect. It’s just the way most of this stuff is now whatever you’re working on. It’s bs and most likely not the vendors fault unless they are knowingly buying something inferior to make more money.

Usually they are sniffed out by car people eventually though, because most car folk are smart and on a budget. That usually equals research.

Yes I know aftermarket parts do suck some time. I replaced all the body panel on my bronco and it took alot of work but still easier then trying to make a quater panel from scratch.

 

[catfan]

Ok ill do that you don't think it is necessary to reinforce the frame patch?

Ok so here are some pics. Just roughly set a plate in the back and raised up the mount a little bit. You don’t think there is a need to reinforce the patch that was welded in?
The old one the angle part is alot shorter and the round stock is alot thicker. No I never called but I just assumed aftermarket parts you just got to make them fit.

Looks like the angle of the back tab is different , the idea was that when the tab is straight you have the front angle right.

 

[Chris99]

I have a 74 frame in my storage shed. I’ll get some measurements this weekend, as I’m kinda wondering now. I never measured mine on the actual frame I’m using before I whacked um off. I’ll let you know

Did you ever measure your other frame to see if the mount were the same side to side?

 

[joshua]

Did you ever measure your other frame to see if the mount were the same side to side?

Honestly I forgot. My shed is around 40 minutes away. And I just thought I’d be further, to the point where I would have needed those measurements myself. But I haven’t even made my frame plates yet as I’m still mocking up the front end.

But I’ve been fixing up a boat all summer to sell, taking up all my free time. But If the rain stops today, I’m going to go test the boat and drive relatively close to the shed to get to the lake. If so I’ll swing by and do those for you/us.

 

[Toyaddict71]

I have 74 with what I think you’re looking for. Both sides are in same place for me. Measurement taken from the bumper where it’s welded to frame. Hope this helps!

 

[Toyaddict71]

Photos

 

[catfan]

I sell rear shock mounts like these on Ebay and after reading this thread and others I'm going to start only tacking the rear tab on.
You have to have a welder anyway and can weld it when you weld the shock mount on.

 

[Steve83]

The frame that I measured to make this drawing had them so close to the same location that I drew them as the same. I can't think of any reason Ford would stagger them so subtly - if they needed to be different, they'd need to be NOTICEABLY different to matter.

(click this text)

 

[catfan]

The frame that I measured to make this drawing had them so close to the same location that I drew them as the same. I can't think of any reason Ford would stagger them so subtly - if they needed to be different, they'd need to be NOTICEABLY different to matter.

(click this text)

Frame Thickness ~0.120" (~7ga) This needs fixed , 7 ga is 0,176.