Trying to figure out what parts to order for rebuilding the Dana 44 disc front end and ford 9" big bearing rear end that are under a 77 bronco.
What gear ratio is in there now? The two common ratios in that year were 3.50-ish or 4.11-ish. Maybe you have the 4.11's already?
Your '77 would have had the stronger style big-bearing housing, with the largest rear brakes normally available on a Bronco. So already a good start.
First off, recommended stall converter size and brand?
Don't know from brands, but the most advertised, such as Monster Transmissions, have (so far) some pretty good reputations in the performance end of things. But there are even local rebuilders you could take your own to, to have it worked over. Maybe even slightly modified for strength or stall speed.
But no matter what is recommended, I would absolutely decide on what engine you'll be using, then absolutely stick with it. A stock-ish 302 is going to like a completely different converter than a hopped up 347 I'm thinking.
There are some compromises that can work with both perhaps, but I would still decide on what engine. You'll get the best recommendations that way.
And expect to hear a wide variety of recommendations too, so be prepared to read between the lines and look at who's recommending what. A 20-something with race experience may not be recommending the same thing as a 40-something with a family and street driving knowledge.
Personally, from what I have heard here and there and elsewhere over the years, I would not go over 2000rpm stall speed for a Bronco. Lower is often better, but lately I've been hearing members here say they're having their best experience ever with some higher-than-stock ratings.
Hopefully some of them will come in with their experiences.
And last, but not least, find out what bolt pattern your current converter has. There were two used on the Broncos, but I do believe that your '77 should have the more common one. Might have been '75 and '76 that had the odd-ball size, but not sure.
I think you can find new converters in either pattern, but not new flexplates. So if your flexplate needs changing, you'll have to source the converter accordingly.
As I said though, hopefully you have the more normal type and that won't even come up as an issue. Just nice to know ahead of time.
Now to the axles: What gear ratio would be optimal for this tire size?
As the others have said, I think the basic 4.11 (rear) with the 3spd C4 is a good bet for your tire size. But here again, be absolutely certain what you will do for a transmission. If you're talked into a 4-speed with overdrive later, you'll regret (possibly) not going one or two steps lower (higher number) with your ratio.
This didn't used to come up as often, but now that overdrive transmissions are the norm rather than the exception, it's often a sticking point in a build.
And don't worry about odd numbers you're going to see. The 4.11 ratio is for the Ford 9" while the Dana 44's might be 4.09 (or is it 4.10?) or so. I never remember exactly which one it is anymore.
Hubs: thinking to stick with stock but does anybody sell a rebuild kit?
No rebuild kit needed usually. The only things that fail on them (typically) are the outer o-ring sealing the knob, and an over-tightened cap screw.
Rebuild kits are common for the failure and wear-prone aftermarket hubs, but I've never seen a kit offered for stock.
The "kit" most of us vendors sell
are the aftermarket hubs!
Probably because it was easier and less expensive to go that route than replace a broken main part. No real wear-and-tear is associated with stock.
As said, the Yukons are based off of the stock ones, and priced accordingly. But still not that bad by today's standards. In the $300-ish range vs the $100-ish range for standards.
Rotors: what company sells a good product?
Here you can use just about anyone, but your '77 does have Wilwood upgrade stuff available to you if you want to get into it. Very good components and, if you end up using larger diameter wheels, you can up-size the rotors for even more braking power.
Gear sets: hoping to go with some sort of posi-trac in the rear
I think the only "Posi" (which is GM-speak for limited-slip) choice these days is the Detroit Truetrac. Not literally the only unit of course, as the sky is the limit for the Ford 9" almost. But it's certainly the one that gets the most kudos from users. Lots of benefits in my mind.
Agree too with the others that if you're going to buy a limited-slip or locker for a 9" you should always upgrade to 31 spline axles. It's an added expense, but at around $250 (for our brand at least) it's money well spent.
Some manufacturers won't even offer their limited-slip or locking differentials in 28 spline anymore due to all the broken axles.
Axles: brand and spline count?
Go for 31 for sure. There is also the 35spl option, but it will not fit into your existing stock third-member. Needs larger bore diameter carrier bearings that only fit with Ford Nodular, or most aftermarket housings.
I like our axles of course!%) (what a shock, I know...) but they have proven to be pretty good at their job. And not that expensive.
They do come with the bearings already pressed on as well, so that's a bonus.
Seals/bearings: brand and part numbers?
If you go with stock style axle bearings, the Timken brand is widely recognized as one of the best, and as a factory supplier for vehicles like ours and to this day. But while they were long hold-outs in the "made in the USA" field, it's no longer the case. Some of them are, but not easy to guarantee yours won't come from Mexico, Japan, China, Taiwan, Vietnam, France, Belgium, or probably three or four other countries. You just have to hope that they're still building them to the same specifications as they used to!
Other brands that are relatively well known too, are also pretty trustworthy even if they're not made here either. I should remember the names, but don't for the moment. I'm sure others here will let you know what's worked for them.
I've used non-Timken bearings and have had just as good luck with them. But those were all old manufacture too. Haven't replaced any of my own lately 'cause the old ones are still working.
Seals, same brands, or National, or CR (Chicago Rawhide) or any of a number of them.
By "stock bearing" style I meant sealed bearings with inner seals in the axle housing. Our Extreme axles come with the Set-20 bearings installed that include a new outer seal. In this style (stock for full-size Ford 9" applications) the bearing is open to the gear lube and is of the stronger tapered roller type, as opposed to the stock sealed ball bearing type.
But either works well and stock ones lasted 100k miles anyway.
Front axle u-joints. Spicer brand are generally considered the top, but here again there are others that are very good.
Ball joints? Spicer, Moog, whoever. They're all decent, but they've pretty much all had complaints for one reason or another here if I remember, so nothing is sacred anymore unfortunately.
Spindle bearings and seals. I like our nylon bushings/bearings, but it's not a requirement for your use. Just a nice bonus. Not to mention easier to install usually!
Wheel bearings? Same Timken for me, but here is where an inspection will tell you what you need. If kept adjusted properly and lubed consistently, your original bearings can last the life of the truck. If not however, likely new bearings and races would be cheap insurance.
Don't forget that if you already have a good gear ratio, you likely do not need to replace the gears or bearings in the front end. After all, how much time could it have spent working? If the Bronco was not used extensively in 4wd then you could have as little as a few hundred miles in the last 40 years put on them!
An inspection will tell you if you are dealing with rust, wear and tear, or any other damage.
Have fun!
Paul
