rebuilt 302 break in.

[johnbeck]

I will be breaking in my 302- running it 20 minutes, 2000 rpm's. Before I run it I believe I have to run a shaft attached to a drill motor and the engine's oil pump which is accessed through the distributor hole. What's the shaft called, who sells it, what speed do I run the drill motor, for how long? I know this proceedure is to fill the engine's jurnals with oil before starting the engine. Any details? Thanks, John B

 

[DirtDonk]

It's called a "priming tool" but some are just using an old distributor without the lower drive gear. Great if you have a spare laying around.

No specific speed that I've ever seen recommended. Just spin it 'till oil is flowing and you see pressure on the gauge. Many battery drills will not have the power to turn very fast, if at all, once pressure is built up, so many resort to the old plug-in electric drill.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

I've also heard (and done just in case) that if you turn the engine to a different position while the oil is flowing you will get it to more rocker arms and other places. Made sense to me so that's what I've done in the past.
Either turning the engine over by hand or using the starter a bump at a time.

And just to add to the discussion, I've never used 2,000 rpm so can't say it won't work, but I learned that 2,500 to 3,000 was the desired rpm range. I would think 2,000 is not a bad thing, but if I was using that i would also push the speed up to 2,500 at least occasionally during the break-in.

Paul

 

[blubuckaroo]

johnbeck,
If you've got an engine builder, you need to discuss "break in" with him.

 

[mrdrnac]

Also your drill must have a reverse, the pump needs to turn counterclockwise like the rotor does.

 

[BOBS 2 68S]

And I install a mechanical oil pressure gauge to conferm oil pressure

 

[Broncobowsher]

Flat tappet cam? Be sure to use zinc fortified oil or add the additive.

Long extension and a ¼" socket will engage the oil pump. No special tools needed. GM needs the distributor in place to control oil passages, Ford engines don't care. I have even used a speed wrench and done it by hand.

The pump will spin easy, hit the oil and you will feel that. About a second later you may feel another hit as the passages are filled with oil. That's primed. There are people who will run it for minutes. You are just washing off the assembly lube at that point. Less than 10 seconds it should be primed and registering oil pressure.

Check with the engine builder for there instructions. Second, check the cam instructions, third choice, the good old fashion run for 20 minutes at 2000 RPM. If it starts getting too hot, OK to shut it down. Engine speed is not exact, that is a good speed to fling oil off the rod bearings into the bores and at the bottom of the cam.

 

[johnbeck]

I really appreciate all the heip. The engine was rebuilt a year ago. Four or five months ago I attached the flex plate and the C4 trans., turning the engine over by hand a number of times to equally torch the bolts. Is it likely the assembly lube was wiped off engine surfaces to cause a problem - should I squirt some engine oil in each of the cylinders and rotate the engine a time or two? After priming the engine oil system, I'll have to install the distributor and static time it. How long a period of time do I have to get the engine running before the oil system "loses it's prime" and needs to be primed again? I have Lucas Break In Additive. I have a mechanical oil pump laying around- should I temporarily install it instead of the electric? Thanks, John B

 

[bbaltered]

Electric oil pump????

 

[73azbronco]

Pretty sure you dont have an electric oil pump, right?

Just prime the oil pump through the distributor, then make sure the dizzy is back on right.

Don't worry about build lube, that wipes off first crank, It's only used to build up the motor and give moving parts some lube while engine rotates during assembly, exactly what you did installing flexplate.. Don't worry about lubing cylinder, in fact, don't. To much and you can really break things.

 

[johnbeck]

Sorry, I read the post twice before pushing Reply but missed the "electric oil pump". I have an electric fuel pressure sending unit. Would it be worth the time to install a mechanical oil line and gauge for the break in? If not I'll turn on the key and check the gauge - can I ground out that system to see that it's working(The Bronco hasn't been ran in almost three years)? Thanks, John B

 

[Timmy390]

Would it be worth the time to install a mechanical oil line and gauge for the break in?

IMO YES.......You can shut it down much sooner if things go sideways. I don't trust "dummy" gauges at all. Just installed a mechanical gauge in my Samurai....

I primed my engine till oil came out each pushrod and covered the rocker/spring. Worked the hell out of my drill. I also had a mechanical gauge and watched it while priming. Overkill? Maybe but my W was and still is my baby and I went above and beyond.

Tim

 

[Seventee]

Long extension and a ¼" socket will engage the oil pump. No special tools needed.

It is actually 5/16" socket, correct?

I typically use a deep socket with a long extension and my 3/8 air ratchet in reverse. Although last time I might have used my Dewalt driver drill. For extra insurance I also use a few wraps of electrical tape to ensure the socket stays attached to the extension and doesn't drop into the pan in case I do something stupid.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I thought it was 1/4 for the 302 and 5/16 for the 351W. One of the many areas that the 351 was beefed above the 302.

 

[Seventee]

I thought it was 1/4 for the 302 and 5/16 for the 351W. One of the many areas that the 351 was beefed above the 302.

You could be right, I'm accustomed to working on 335 and 385 series engines.

 

[Madgyver]

i made the oil priming tool out of a gutted distributor. used drill on rotor end in reverse.

 

[Rustytruck]

I welded a socket to a shaft and then had to grind down the od of the socket to clear the block it has to get down the the od of the lower distributor shaft. need a half decent drill motor running in reverse to get the job done especially if your dealing with cold conditions. helps to pre-fill the oil filter some too.

 

[Rustytruck]

start the motor with the radiator cap off and have a couple of gallons of coolant available because once the engine starts and warms up the thermostat will open and coolant level will drop as it purges air you need to refill that asap. I cut the top off a 2 liter bottle to use as a funnel as you can fit the top to stay in the radiator opening especially if it has the plastic ring under the cap.

 

[Rustytruck]

I hate starting a new motor too many things to worry about in a short period of time. Check your hose clamps before starting don't want to blow off off a hose in start-up in case one didn't get properly tightened during assembly. other issues I have had was putting a new oil filter on top of an old filter ring stuck to the block. oil spewing everywhere. bad installed spark plug wires. old firing order on a new cam with revised firing order. distributor installed wrong 180 off or one tooth off. if using the stock carb fill the carb with gas through the vent and let it sit a while so the fuel will be right there when you try to start.

 

[johnbeck]

I hadn't even thought about the radiator fluid level changing - Thanks Rustytruck! I'll get an extra container of coolant and make a note to keep the radiator cap off initially. Once I pre-prime the engine oil it will take time to get the distributor in, get fuel in the system, etc. Any reason I can't start the break-in the next day? Will a significant amount of oil escape from the vital friction points and cause damage? Thanks. John B