• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Recommendation for Distributor/Coil/Wires/Spark Plugs

szilkj

New Member
Joined
May 14, 2023
Messages
7
Long Story short, I replaced my distributor (had two wires) with one that had one. Engine misfired and replaced it with the original dizzy. Replaced spark plugs as well.

Upon acceleration it feels “weak”, im not sure if its the dizzy or plugs.

Any recommendations to replace the dizzy (2 wires), coil, and plugs?

I also checked the spark plug gap.

302 V8 1968 Bronco
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,616
Still hard to say. Are you checking timing with a light? Verified that TDC marks on the damper and the pointer are still lining up correctly when it's actually at TDC?
The damper rings can slip over time, and the wrong one can be installed, or an engine swap could have taken place making all the original parts fitment questionable.

As far as you know, is this the original engine? In theory it's not, as it should have been a 289 in a '68. But stranger things have happened.
If it's a swap from some other vehicle however, the timing marks might not line up.

Next, what kind of distributor was it that had two wires? Sounds like the new distributor with just one wire is a standard points distributor for a '68?
Unless you know absolutely everything about this rig from long-term first hand experience with it, then the first thing I'd do is verify the casting date and engineering number for the engine. Then verify the firing order by checking compression with a finger over the spark plug holes while you turn the engine over by hand.
If a camshaft was changed at some point in the engine's life to one with a 351 firing order, or if it's a later model 302/5.0 then it might have the 351 firing order right from the factory.

Another question. Was the engine acting up this way before the distributor change? What made you think you needed a new distributor? Nothing wrong with giving a tune-up to an engine with unknown mileage of course, but if it was acting the same before and after the changes, then obviously the parts already changed were not at fault and now might be adding to the mystery.

So a few more details please.
Maybe even start a new thread with "new distributor, new problems" in the title. Or something along those lines. (edit: oops, you did start a new thread! My mistake)
Good luck.

Oh, and welcome to classicbroncos too by the way!
You new to Broncos in general, or just new to the forum?
Either way, welcome.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,616
Haha! Sorry, thought I was in another thread that was brought back up. Obviously you DID start a new thread! Oops...

So yeah, it's a good title already and I'm sure there's enough knowledge around these parts to get you dialed in. Hopefully without spending too much more money!

Pauol
 

bronco italiano

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
2,593
Once you know the engine is working properly and are sure it's the dizzy:
-If you have the money and want to do it "cry once" get the performance distributors DUI (if you want 2 wire"
OR
Call David Ray at " Dave's small-bodies HEI". He is one "character" to say the least, but EVERYONE that he has done a distributor for was amazed at his craftsmanship/accuracy/performance.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
37,065
So much unknown...
2-wire is not stock. Best I can guess is you had a breaking point distributor that had a drop in points eliminator kit installed. But that is only guessing.
1-wire distributor has to be a breaker point ignition. When installing one there are a few things that need to be adjusted. The point gap needs to be right so the dwell is correct. The other is the timing needs to be right. You can't just stick it in an expect the timing to be correct. Doesn't sound like either of those things were done when the distributor was installed.

At this point it is in need of a basic tune up adjustment. The new parts are there, they just need to be adjusted in.
 
OP
OP
S

szilkj

New Member
Joined
May 14, 2023
Messages
7
So much unknown...
2-wire is not stock. Best I can guess is you had a breaking point distributor that had a drop in points eliminator kit installed. But that is only guessing.
1-wire distributor has to be a breaker point ignition. When installing one there are a few things that need to be adjusted. The point gap needs to be right so the dwell is correct. The other is the timing needs to be right. You can't just stick it in an expect the timing to be correct. Doesn't sound like either of those things were done when the distributor was installed.

At this point it is in need of a basic tune up adjustment. The new parts are there, they just need to be adjusted in.
Yeah, that makes sense - I would have gotten back to you sooner but my brakes went out and had to deal with that (still am). Haven't worked on the distributor yet but it sounds like my timing is off? Would this be as simple as just grabbing a ratchet and turning it until the piston is all the way depressed? I spoke with an old timer (lol grandpa) and he told me I needed a timing light to make sure that I am dropping the two wire distributor correctly back in?

As for the 1 wire comment, I have no idea what a breaker point ignition but I am assuming I don't have that because I wouldn't have a two wire.

For me to get my 2 wire distributor (that has no issues, I was literally just trying to upgrade stuff for no reason when I shouldn't have) to get put back in the correct position, what would the immediate action items be? Timing light, ratchet, screw driver technique? Would there ever be the possibility that the distributor fixes itself?
 
OP
OP
S

szilkj

New Member
Joined
May 14, 2023
Messages
7
Still hard to say. Are you checking timing with a light? Verified that TDC marks on the damper and the pointer are still lining up correctly when it's actually at TDC?
The damper rings can slip over time, and the wrong one can be installed, or an engine swap could have taken place making all the original parts fitment questionable.

As far as you know, is this the original engine? In theory it's not, as it should have been a 289 in a '68. But stranger things have happened.
If it's a swap from some other vehicle however, the timing marks might not line up.

Next, what kind of distributor was it that had two wires? Sounds like the new distributor with just one wire is a standard points distributor for a '68?
Unless you know absolutely everything about this rig from long-term first hand experience with it, then the first thing I'd do is verify the casting date and engineering number for the engine. Then verify the firing order by checking compression with a finger over the spark plug holes while you turn the engine over by hand.
If a camshaft was changed at some point in the engine's life to one with a 351 firing order, or if it's a later model 302/5.0 then it might have the 351 firing order right from the factory.

Another question. Was the engine acting up this way before the distributor change? What made you think you needed a new distributor? Nothing wrong with giving a tune-up to an engine with unknown mileage of course, but if it was acting the same before and after the changes, then obviously the parts already changed were not at fault and now might be adding to the mystery.

So a few more details please.
Maybe even start a new thread with "new distributor, new problems" in the title. Or something along those lines. (edit: oops, you did start a new thread! My mistake)
Good luck.

Oh, and welcome to classicbroncos too by the way!
You new to Broncos in general, or just new to the forum?
Either way, welcome.

Paul
I AM NOT CHECKING IT WITH A LIGHT - HOW DO I DO THIS, my grandpa told me to do this and I WAS CONFUSED.
 

Pops68

Contributor
Bronco Rookie
Joined
Oct 11, 2010
Messages
1,775
Loc.
Bazetta Township
YouTube is your friend, especially if I read that you are a 'millennial'..... I swear I did????

Look for " how to use a timing light on a small block ford"
 
OP
OP
S

szilkj

New Member
Joined
May 14, 2023
Messages
7
YouTube is your friend, especially if I read that you are a 'millennial'..... I swear I did????

Look for " how to use a timing light on a small block ford"
Yes, I did - honestly man I'm Gen Z, live in Tampa, and wanted something to work on as a hobby as I didn't have instruction of cars growing up. While I may be asking silly questions I did replace the starter motor all on my own, so I am slowly building more and more confidence. Just the distributor is driving me nuts, I think I understand the concept of everything but I can't find on YouTube how to correct calibrate (move it left or right) to find the correct teeth fitting. Any recommendation on what type of light to buy? I am trying my best to make sure I don't make the same mistake twice and buy things that are not meant for a 68 Bronco.
 

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
8,778
So it runs. And slow acceleration on a stock motor….. sounds like it’s fine, unless you have other indications.
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,969
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Hopefully one of the guys down in Florida can give you a hand. Most on here work for beer and pizza. As far as new stuff I'm a fan of the performance distributors hei. I just run the Ford motorsport plug wires with it .
 

TX-ZACH

Full Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2021
Messages
287
Loc.
Chappell Hill Texas
Although I was roasted (not here) for going HEI and am glad I did. Made life much easier. Find a cheap timing gun on amazon. Watch as many youtubes as you can. Like DD said verify you have TDC. Mine was happy at 14 degrees at idle. Remember if you change timing you will need to go back to the carb and adjust rpm. You are hoping for good vac and idle around 600rpm while in gear.

I have had good luck with something like this but make sure what cam you are running flat tappet or roller cam requires melonized gear: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850024 Also some additional tuning options for vacuum advance and timing weights.

Plugs: You may have the wrong plugs in. Verify what heads you have and look at specs for what plugs to run. Make sure everything is hot by testing with either the timing light to verify traffic over wire or you see a spark. Check your gap.

Wires: I run ford racing but any high quality wire will do.
 
Last edited:

m_m70

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 14, 2001
Messages
1,769
Loc.
Prescott AZ
Yes, I did - honestly man I'm Gen Z, live in Tampa, and wanted something to work on as a hobby as I didn't have instruction of cars growing up. While I may be asking silly questions I did replace the starter motor all on my own, so I am slowly building more and more confidence.
Nothing wrong with this! We all started somewhere with no knowledge and worked our way up. You'll get there!
Just the distributor is driving me nuts,
It is a step up from the starter....
I am trying my best to make sure I don't make the same mistake twice and buy things that are not meant for a 68 Bronco.
Smart...so let's start with what you got now. The original one.

When you take the rotor cap off which one do you have??
1.)
points dizzy.jpg

2.)
duraspark dizzy.jpg

3.)
pertronix.jpg
 
Top