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Red Label 68 4.6 Terminator Powered Bronco

br0nc0xrapt0r

Loves pickles
Joined
Sep 28, 2007
Messages
5,437
Any reason why you did not extend the Frame mounts to go farther in the frame with square tube? this was something I was thinking of to help distribute lateral force when winching from an angle.
 
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houseofdiesel

houseofdiesel

Full Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
253
Any reason why you did not extend the Frame mounts to go farther in the frame with square tube? this was something I was thinking of to help distribute lateral force when winching from an angle.

We had to lower the radiator. So the extension boxes could only go back as far as they do. I wasn't comfortable with that either. That's why I threw the 2" .125 in there and am going to plate that 2" to the 1.75" that became the new front crossmember when I widened the frame. It's only about 12"s and I plan on using at least 1/4". The front 3' of the frame is going to be the most rigid part of the whole rig.
 

mavereq

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 19, 2009
Messages
2,092
i know what you mean about the front being rigid. i think i went overkill on beefing up my steering mount and boxing in the end of the frame. it's getting heavy already.
 
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houseofdiesel

houseofdiesel

Full Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
253
Update 6/2/10

Got all the line locks mounted to the axles and the rear back under it with the coilovers on. I should be able to pick up the brake lines tonight, they were waiting for a couple more fittings to come in. The front is way way heavier than the rear, but only with the top, doors, and spare tire off. 550 PSI in the front and 300 in the rear just to get it to sit up at ride height. I'll be weighing the front and rear tonight to get an exact number with a crane scale. Spent the rest of the night measuring and trimming to weld in the plates for the front bumper and front wheel well tube to meet. I drew a rough pic to give an idea of what it'll look like. My welds came out 100X better this time. They aren't show quality but I'm super excited about the improvement. As far as adding rigidity to the body tubing, the bottom plate will be bolted to the bumper, and about 10" back down the quarter panel the body tube will have a bar connecting it to the front hoops.

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No Stands (the front was on stands just so we could turn the tires for trimming)
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DanWheeler

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 8, 2005
Messages
2,549
Loc.
Kirkland, WA
So are you doing line locks at all 4 corners? Did you mention this already? if not, can you please explain your reasoning for this? Sounds pretty interesting.
 
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houseofdiesel

houseofdiesel

Full Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
253
So are you doing line locks at all 4 corners? Did you mention this already? if not, can you please explain your reasoning for this? Sounds pretty interesting.

In wet, when a front is up against an obstacle, or side hill situations I can lock a front to basically help create a power slide to pivot the rear around. It might never get used but the one time I need it I'll be glad I spent the extra cash for 4 instead of 3. Plus with electrical locks it's no big deal to add one more, not like I gotta do all that extra plumbing or find place for levers.
 

DanWheeler

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 8, 2005
Messages
2,549
Loc.
Kirkland, WA
In wet, when a front is up against an obstacle, or side hill situations I can lock a front to basically help create a power slide to pivot the rear around. It might never get used but the one time I need it I'll be glad I spent the extra cash for 4 instead of 3. Plus with electrical locks it's no big deal to add one more, not like I gotta do all that extra plumbing or find place for levers.

very cool, i had been thinking about doing this but wasn't sure if it was weird or unusual or dangerous. How are you wiring them up? What kind of switches? It would be cool if you had a master switch that locked them all up simultaneously.

I know you're not supposed to use them for parking brakes but having one on each wheel seems like it would make for a pretty decent parking brake in addition to the transmission being in gear or in park. The transmission would have to let go AND the battery would have to fail for the car to roll.
 
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houseofdiesel

houseofdiesel

Full Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
253
very cool, i had been thinking about doing this but wasn't sure if it was weird or unusual or dangerous. How are you wiring them up? What kind of switches? It would be cool if you had a master switch that locked them all up simultaneously.

I know you're not supposed to use them for parking brakes but having one on each wheel seems like it would make for a pretty decent parking brake in addition to the transmission being in gear or in park. The transmission would have to let go AND the battery would have to fail for the car to roll.

On top of that I had the E Brake setup on the shelf from the 2 Speed Stak I ran in the '62 F250. I called Stak and told them I never used it and something was different cause it would fit on the 3 Speed in the Bronco. He said they just use different brackets. So I sent him the 2 Speed one and he's swapping it out for me. It's way overkill but it was basically free since I had the other one laying around.

Oh and my Master switch is big hands. lol

Na, I'll have two switch panels. One just for the lockers and another for lights and lockers. Basically 4 and 6. The 6 will be on the dash just short of center under the Speedo. For the 4 switch I'll make a box panel that'll mount right in between the center console/cup holders and the shifter.
 

DanWheeler

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 8, 2005
Messages
2,549
Loc.
Kirkland, WA
out of curiosity, why not run double push/pull cutting brakes?

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then you wouldn't have to press on the brake pedal to lock them and would be able to feather them
 
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houseofdiesel

houseofdiesel

Full Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
253
out of curiosity, why not run double push/pull cutting brakes?

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then you wouldn't have to press on the brake pedal to lock them and would be able to feather them

Already ran out of room and easy of install and less chances for leaks. I already plan on pushing the center console back for a small box panel. Is there an advantage to the cutting brake over a electric line lock?
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houseofdiesel

houseofdiesel

Full Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
253
Update 6/3/10

Well weighed the front and back last night. Took a look at the winch, that'll take some work. Then got side tracked cleaning and reorganizing.

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trailpsycho

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Messages
4,856
THIS is an awesome build! Doing a fine, fine job. Keep it up. Love all the fab-work.
 
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houseofdiesel

houseofdiesel

Full Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
253
Update 6/4/10

Well got one side all welded up and rounded off. I have to heat and pound in the front tube a little to give the winch some clearance. I'll also have to cut the mounting brackets off and mount them slightly higher and to the driver side. Even after I trim a notch out of the side cover so it can slide left closer to center it'll come up about a 1/2" from the holes and it has to be raised about 1/2" so the lever can clear the front tube.

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houseofdiesel

houseofdiesel

Full Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
253
Update 6/29/10

I know it's been awhile but I've had to give some of my other rigs some attention so I could make a few of the western diesel events this year. I've been ordering all of the fittings for all of the plumbing which took some serious attention, just want to make sure that everything can be run as tight as possible. Should have everything plumbed up in a week or two to get it over to my wiring and tuning guys. I did get a chance to finish painting the front bumper and get it all bolted up. The approach angle came out sweet. I'm not as overwhelmed with the departure but the rear axle is as far as I'm willing to move it back due to the OE rear crossmember and gas tank. I could bend the corners of the bumper in though and I might still do just that. In order to make the Warn Power Plant Winch fit in the front I had to cut a notch out of the cover, cut the mounting bracket of and shift them over and up just a couple inches, and dent the inner face tube to clear the cover. The rear is on the Ballistic Hybrid coilovers (250/350). It's a little high but I have at least another 750 Lbs to add to the rear with the spare tire, carrier, top, and fuel. Oh, and the bumpers I'm working with and modifying are Proto Fab.

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