Replacing wheel bearings, should I swap races also?

[vtboy51]

I'm replacing the wheel bearings in my front end and don't know if I need to deal with removing the old races, or just keep them as is? They seem to be pressed into the hub pretty good, do I need a special to tool if I do swap them out?

 

[pcf_mark]

Always replace bearings and races in sets I was always told. They tap out pretty easy - if you look from the backside there is a little notch you can use to get a punch against the back of the race.

 

[vtboy51]

Always replace bearings and races in sets I was always told. They tap out pretty easy - if you look from the backside there is a little notch you can use to get a punch against the back of the race.

Sounds good. I was just afraid of pounding them out and then needing some special tool to reseat them.

 

[.94 OR]

A brass punch from Harbor Freight works well since the brass is softer than the steel of either the hub or race.

 

[Broncomt]

A brass punch from Harbor Freight works well since the brass is softer than the steel of either the hub or race.

X2, always use brass punch on bearing races.

 

[cldonley]

Alright, some are gonna disagree with this, but you don't need to replace races every time you replace bearings. In aircraft we avoid it especially because wheels are aluminum and easy to damage. I've disassembled wheels and found the race spinning in the hub. If you can't feel damage or see evidence of overheating (bluing) you can leave 'em. On the other hand, while you have them apart, if you get the old ones out without damaging the hubs, you can replace them and they will last a long time. I would always recommend that you freeze the new races before installing. If you freeze the races and heat the hub you can slide them in by hand. Good luck!

 

[blubuckaroo]

Alright, some are gonna disagree with this, but you don't need to replace races every time you replace bearings. In aircraft we avoid it especially because wheels are aluminum and easy to damage. I've disassembled wheels and found the race spinning in the hub. If you can't feel damage or see evidence of overheating (bluing) you can leave 'em. On the other hand, while you have them apart, if you get the old ones out without damaging the hubs, you can replace them and they will last a long time. I would always recommend that you freeze the new races before installing. If you freeze the races and heat the hub you can slide them in by hand. Good luck!

Good point.
There have been some "bad runs" of aftermarket hubs that don't fit the race properly. If the race slips into the hub without having to press or drive it in, replace the hub with one that fits properly.

 

[garberz]

If you decide to replace the bearing races, set them with Green Loc-tite. That will insure that the races won't spin inside the hub.

Mark

 

[Skiddy]

Always replace bearings and races in sets I was always told. They tap out pretty easy - if you look from the backside there is a little notch you can use to get a punch against the back of the race.

I have always replace them as a set as well, just takes a couple seconds longer

 

[Apogee]

I would suggest always replacing tapered roller bearings as a set, cup and cone. In general, running a new cone on a used cup will wear out both quicker.

 

[Rustytruck]

for a slipped race and not a loose race this stuff works very well but you have to get everything clean enough to eat off of before you apply it. When assembling and torquing the wheel bearing lock nuts the end play spec is very important. Set the bearings too tight and when everything heats up and expands your liable to spin the races in the hub. allot of big parts need room to grow when runn warmed up at speed. I shoot for .005 hub end play after the wheel bearing nuts are fully torqued down. Read the factory service manual for proper set-up and torque specifications. The 4X4 truck bearings are not set up like a car or trailer wheel bearings where they want a light preload and basically no end play. Allot of aftermarket service manuals have wrong preload setting and lock nut torque values. Can't go wrong using the factory service manual to guide you.

 

[DirtDonk]

This times 10! Way too many youboob videos and otherwise "authoritative" sources recommend using "preload' which is completely wrong for the Dana axles. The factory spec shows just what Rusty was saying. I think it's like .005-.008" (edit: .001" to .010") or something like that, but it's for free-play, not pre-load.

Even when we were re-using an existing race, my dad always said it was better to replace them in sets. As well, the rule was "when in doubt, just replace it."
But that doubt can be very subtle. We never lost one on the light cars, but we never hesitated to change them if there were substantial miles, or the history was unknown.

As an example of a good reason to replace them, is the difference in feel between an old race with a new bearing, and a set of all new parts. The difference is remarkable just in feel. Even an inexperienced installer can feel the difference even when the race looks good.

The best test I can think of is to at least get the new races so you have them with you, then with a clean and grease free race and bearing (cup and cone) spin the new bearing in the old race gently by hand. Now spin it in the new race by hand.
If you can easily feel the massive difference that some will have, throw the old race outta there!

A good matched setup is like butter. But you might now know how butter is supposed to feel until you experience it. And once is usually enough.

Paul

 

[Skiddy]

wheel bearings aren't something to play with, if one goes out or locks up your in for a ride

 

[sprdv1]

Alright, some are gonna disagree with this, but you don't need to replace races every time you replace bearings. In aircraft we avoid it especially because wheels are aluminum and easy to damage. I've disassembled wheels and found the race spinning in the hub. If you can't feel damage or see evidence of overheating (bluing) you can leave 'em. On the other hand, while you have them apart, if you get the old ones out without damaging the hubs, you can replace them and they will last a long time. I would always recommend that you freeze the new races before installing. If you freeze the races and heat the hub you can slide them in by hand. Good luck!

They're cheap enough, but I don't replace every time

 

[Apogee]

wheel bearings aren't something to play with, if one goes out or locks up your in for a ride

That is a true statement...I had the left front wheel bearings on my '77 F150 seize one time and just about drag me into oncoming traffic. Thankfully there was a center turn lane, otherwise things would have gotten ugly(ier). It destroyed the bearings, spindle and hub. Once everything broke loose (bearing was welded to the spindle), I was able to limp it home on the shoulder, but given the low cost of bearing sets and ease to change them, I will never mix and match cups/cones, used/new, etc.

 

[broncobilly72]

To take out races I usually cut up a wood 2x4 and use it to remove the race...it won't score the hub.

 

[00gyrhed]

I always figured if the bearing needed to be replaced go ahead and replace the race. If you have good seals and pack regularly you may never need to replace a bearing. I have a 96 F250 with 400,000 miles on it that still has the factory wheel bearings on all four corners. I have even knocked the front bearing out of hubs and reused them in new hubs. I figure if a used bearing shows no sign of wear then it might be better than the new replacement you will get at the local parts house.

 

[Knox]

here's the dana 44 manual

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5310-3.PDF

the pics are better in the dana 30 manual

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5304-2.PDF