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Resistor wire getting hot

fisherleep

New Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2005
Messages
31
Loc.
Lawrenceville, GA
My resistor wire is getting so hot that it melted the insulation. This is the wire that goes from the ignition switch to the splice where it goes to the coil and starter moter relay. I have put in a new coil and ignition modual. When I take the clip off the coil it does not get hot. When I leave the clip on and unplug from the distributor it does not get hot. The same thing happens when I unplug from the modual power side. The resistor wire seems to be working because when the clip is on the coil I get 9v with it off I get 12v is this right?
 

ken75ranger

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 27, 2002
Messages
5,069
Loc.
Troy, NY
Mine started to melt a bit too.I kept it out of the loom where I could keep an eye on it until I swapped motors and ignition to a different set-up. If you leave the key in the run position without starting the motor it gets very hot. When the motor's running it's fine. Since it's already melted you might as well cut it out and put in a ballast resistor.
 

SaddleUp

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 23, 2004
Messages
9,655
Loc.
Vancouver, WA
It's normal for it to get warm but if it is melting then it's getting too hot. As mentioned above you can cut it out and put a ballast resistor in instead. Not sure what all applications will work but I know one from an older Mopar product will work. Be sure to get 2 of them though when you do so you have a spare. In a pinch you can wire past it if/when it fails but that burns up the points before long.
 

BroncoMarc

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2004
Messages
438
Loc.
BroncOhio
I've heard you can ditch the resistor wire / ballast resistor if your running an electronic ignition. I think the purpose of the resistor was to lower the voltage so you didn't burn out the points. Someone let me know if that's true or not..
 
OP
OP
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fisherleep

New Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2005
Messages
31
Loc.
Lawrenceville, GA
No I don't think that is true. I have heard that the coil will burn up without some type of resistor on it, unless it a high performance coil. At least that's how I understand it.
 

SaddleUp

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 23, 2004
Messages
9,655
Loc.
Vancouver, WA
ken75ranger said:
You're right. It's the coil that determines if it can take full voltage.
Sort of. The points will also burn up if fed a constant 12 volts. Or rather burn up faster than normal.

I believe most of the electronic ignitions are set up for a full 12 volts. This may require changing the coil as well though. (It's been several years since I converted one so I don't recall offhand what all I "had" to change) I do know that I eventually swapped to the Ford high energy coil so it did have 12 volts last time I saw it. (Last I heard that particular rig was sitting in a field rotting away somewhere)
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,621
Most O.E. ignitions were actually just holdovers from the old 6 volt days. When they went to 12 volt systems, they just stayed with the 6 volt components and reduced the system voltage accordingly. A typical budget committeel compromise it sounds like.

Since they can actually handle 9 volts pretty well (more heat was the big problem I think), and the condensers could live with that for awhile, they stuck with that value I guess. Probably figured that any more resistance in the primary wire (to bring it farther down towards the 6 volt region) would build up too much heat in the wire. And it would also reduce spark intensity to the point where the them new-fangled engines with high-compression and all that wouldn't run right. So they stuck with 9 volts.
Until FINALLY they threw some money at the problem and built systems that would run on the full system voltage and give more spark. Of course it was probably emissions regulations that finally made them step up, but that's just a guess.

Lots of replacement coils can handle the 12 volts by either using internal resistance or just designing them to handle the added heat. Most aftermarket ignition modules run on 12 volts too, so you can have your cake and eat it too.

Watch out for the cheapie replacements for a Duraspark though. Some of them don't like 12 volts even though many of the Ford ones ran on full voltage originally. This might not be a problem any more as I would hope that most aftermarket manufacturers have figured out all the subtle differences between all the different Duraspark models and don't scrimp where they can't get away with it.
I went through 3 Kragen-bought modules ($19.95 specials) before buying the Ford Racing (MSD built and $100 some-odd bucks - yikes!), and then an MSD Adjustable-Timing-Control (even more!), Duraspark boxes and it's been happy ever since.

More spark... Goooooooodddd.

Paul
 

bludorbronc

Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Messages
653
I melted my ignition wire once in the middle of nowhere and had to hot wire around the system to keep going. Latter I found I had a poor ground. Make sure you have a good ground from battery to engine, engine to frame, body to engine. I believe the distributor is looking for a ground and is not finding one.
 
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